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A Kazinga Channel Boat Cruise In Uganda: Is It Worth It?

Elephant on the banks of Kazinga Channel, Uganda
Elephant on the banks of the Kazinga Channel in Uganda

If you’re planning to visit Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda, you may have heard about the Kazinga Channel. Your guide or a fellow traveller may even have suggested you do a boat cruise. But with the additional cost, and so many other things to see and do during your trip, is a boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel worth it?

I spent three months living and working in Uganda, and during my time there I travelled around the country and saw many of Uganda’s spectacular National Parks. Among them, one of my favourites was Queen Elizabeth National Park, and while there I did a 2 hours Kazinga Channel boat cruise.

Read on to find out what it was like, what we saw, and whether or not I would recommend it.

The author photographing the wildlife at the Kazinga Channel, Uganda
Here I am photographing the wildlife at the Kazinga Channel, Uganda

Where is Queen Elizabeth National Park?

Queen Elizabeth National Park sits in western Uganda, close to the majestic Rwenzori Mountains. With vast savannas, misty rainforests, and sparkling lakes, it’s a wildlife haven boasting over 95 mammal species and 600 types of birds, and is an absolute must-visit for any wildlife lover looking for a safari adventure in Uganda.

Where is the Kazinga Channel?

Within Queen Elizabeth National Park, the Kazinga Channel is a short river that runs between the two largest lakes, Lake George and Lake Edward. The channel is about 20 miles long and pretty shallow: only 8 metres deep at the deepest point.  As a result, it attracts a huge array of wildlife which comes down to the water to drink and bathe.

Take a 2-hour Kazinga Channel boat cruise and you’ll be guaranteed some of the best wildlife viewing you’re likely to experience anywhere in Uganda.

A Kazinga Channel map in Uganda
A Kazinga Channel map in Uganda

What is Kazinga Channel known for?

The Kazinga Channel is one of the best wildlife-spotting destinations in the whole of Uganda.

This natural channel attracts a vast array of animals, including one of the world’s largest hippopotamus populations (around 2,000) and numerous Nile crocodiles. Elephants, buffalos, and over 100 water bird species also frequent its banks, making it a prime destination for boat cruises and wildlife viewing.

My visit to the Kazinga Channel in Uganda

I visited Queen Elizabeth National Park as part of a two-week trip round Uganda with my friend and fellow travel blogger Linn. We spent two days in the park, and if you’d like to find out more about what we got up to, check out some of my other Uganda blog posts.

There are many things you can do in Queen Elizabeth National Park, including game drives to spot fabulous Ugandan animals including giraffes, elephants, and the famous tree-climbing lions. But there’s something special about doing a boat cruise – getting out on the water can allow you to get much closer to the animals that come to the river’s edge to drink, and you’re much lower than you would be in a car, so you can be at their eye level, which makes for even more intimate encounters.

Read More: Two Weeks In Uganda – A Suggested Itinerary

Linn enjoying the view over the Kazinga Channel Uganda
Linn enjoying the view over the Kazinga Channel Uganda

What happens on a Kazinga Channel boat cruise?

The Kazinga Channel boat cruise is a two-hour wildlife viewing experience along the river. Boats are open sided, covered to protect you from sun or rain, and fitted with seats so you can relax and watch the views drift by. Some boats also have a bar so you can enjoy a drink while you travel.

Tours typically depart twice daily from Mweya Safari Lodge and are led by experienced guides who will tell you everything you might ever need to know about the location, environment, and the animals you spot.

Boat safaris all take the same route, starting near the mouth of Lake Edward and travelling east along the Kazinga Channel for about an hour, before turning round and coming back again.

Boat safari on the Kazinga Channel, Uganda
Boat cruises run daily on the Kazinga Channel Uganda

What are the Kazinga Channel safari boats like?

There are two boat ride operators, the Uganda Wildlife Authority and Mweya Safari Lodge. The safari lodge boats are smaller and more personal, seating 10-12 people, while the UWA boats have two decks and can host 40 people, with 20 upstairs and 20 downstairs.

This might feel more crowded, but does give you the opportunity to enjoy the view from both the upper and lower vantage points.

We travelled on the UWA boat, appropriately named The Hippo. When we arrived there were no seats left on the top deck, but that didn’t matter. I actually preferred the lower deck, as there was space for me to move around with my camera and tripod, and we were more at eye level with the animals, which I think makes for better photography.

Our boat for the cruise on the Kazinga Channel
Our boat for the cruise on the Kazinga Channel

How much does a Kazinga Channel boat cruise cost?

A two-hour trip up and down the Kazinga Channel with UWA costs US $30 per person for foreign non-residents. The smaller boats from Mweya Safari Lodge are a bit more expensive, costing around US $50 per person.

Kazinga Channel boat safari timings

The Uganda Wildlife Authority boats typically depart at 10 am, 1 pm, 3 pm and 5 pm. If you do the late one you might be able to enjoy a beautiful sunset over the Kazinga Channel. Timings can change, so do check with your hotel or guide, and it’s a good idea to book ahead to avoid disappointment.

The Mweya Safari Lodge boats operate more frequently throughout the day between 9 am and 5 pm.

Read more: Uganda Animals: The Amazing Wildlife of Uganda

Our Kazinga Channel boat captain
Our Kazinga Channel boat captain, Chris

What animals can you see on a Kazinga Channel boat safari?

Uganda is teeming with wildlife, and there are dozens of amazing animals you might see on your Kazinga Channel

Hippos

The Kazinga Channel is home to one of the world’s largest concentrations of hippos – around 2000 of them! These guys might look peaceful and friendly, chilling out in the water, but the hippo is actually the world’s deadliest large land mammal.

They’re angry and aggressive creatures, with very sharp teeth. And you wouldn’t want to have one sit on you: at up to 2,750kg they can easily crush a person to death.

Buffalo

We also saw hundreds of buffalo, wallowing and dozing on the shores in the sunshine.

This many buffalo all together is an impressive spectacle – and with all the grunting and lowing and splashing around, they make an impressive amount of noise too!

The way to tell males and females apart is that the males have bigger horns which grow from the top the head, a bit like a centre parting. On the female the horns are smaller and grow out of the sides of the head. 

Buffalo on the banks of Kazinga Channel, Uganda
Buffalo at the Kazinga Channel In Uganda

Lions

There are lions in Queen Elizabeth National Park too, that are sometimes spotted by the Kazinga Channel. We didn’t see any, but with this many animals coming down to the water every day, I imagine this place is a bit of an all-you-can-eat-buffet for a hungry lion! So if you’re lucky, you might spot them.

Elephants

A little further along the shore, we came across this beautiful elephant, drinking by herself. And later we saw other families of elephants, all peacefully grazing and relaxing on the riverbank.

I was in my element, eye clamped to the viewfinder, heart pounding with excitement, snapping away at these amazing African animals, completely in my happy place.

Elephant on the banks of Kazinga Channel, Uganda
Elephant on the banks of Kazinga Channel, Uganda

For the technically-minded amongst you, I was using my beloved Canon 5D Mark IV with a 70-200 f/2.8 L II lens, and a 2x extender, giving me a maximum zoom of 400 mm and a maximum aperture of f/4, which was plenty enough to get close-ups like this.

Read More: 19 Easy Wildlife Photography Tips For Beginners

Elephant on the Kazinga Channel, Uganda
Elephant on the Kazinga Channel, Uganda

Bird life on the Kazinga Channel Uganda

As you might expect, the Kazinga Channel is also teeming with African birds – you can easily spot as many as 60 species during the two hour boat cruise. If you’re a bit of a twitcher, you’re gonna love it! Here are some of the species you might see:

Black headed weaver birds

We saw many black-headed weaver birds, the males busy building intricate nests in the hope of impressing a female (human men, take note!)…

Black headed weaver bird, Kazinga Channel, Uganda
Black headed weaver bird, Kazinga Channel, Uganda

Pied kingfishers

The pied kingfisher is Africa’s only black and white kingfisher, and a master aerial hunter. This medium-sized bird, about 10 inches tall, patrols rivers and lakes for fish, its favorite meal. With a dagger-like beak and sharp eyesight, it hovers mid-air, then dives headfirst into the water to snatch its prey.

The ones below are a mating pair: the male has the black stripe across the middle of his chest, and the female doesn’t.

Pied Kingfishers on the Kazinga Channel in Uganda
Pied Kingfishers on the Kazinga Channel in Uganda

Pink-backed pelicans

The pink-backed pelican boasts a wingspan of up to 3 meters, making it one of Africa’s largest flying birds. Found on shallow lakes like the Kazinga Channel, they skim the water in groups, scooping up fish with their enormous bills.

Their plumage is mainly white, with a distinctive pink back and black wing tips. These social birds breed colonially, building messy nests in trees where they raise 1-3 chicks.

Pink-backed pelicans can also be seen on the Kazinga Channel
Pink-backed pelicans can also be seen on the Kazinga Channel

Great cormorants

The great cormorant is a master diver reaching nearly 3 feet tall. Black plumage contrasts with a white patch on the throat and thigh during breeding. Stiff tail feathers act as a rudder, while webbed feet propel them underwater to snatch fish with their hooked beak. Unlike most birds, their feathers lack waterproofing, forcing them to “sunbathe” with wings outstretched to dry.

Check out the way all these guys are facing in the same direction with their beaks open. They do this after feeding, facing the sun to warm themselves up and aid digestion.

Read more: Top 50 African Birds: A Safari Photo Guide

Daily life on the Kazinga Channel

But it’s not just wildlife on the Kazinga Channel. As you cruise along, you’ll be able to get a glimpse into the lives of the people who call the area their home.

Not too far from where we saw the elephants, we passed a fishing village. There are 11 fishing villages in Queen Elizabeth Park, and it was interesting to see a different side of the park, with the boats pulled up on the banks, and the people busy working.

I can’t imagine what kind of a life it must be, living in such a beautiful place like this, but always aware that at any moment you might get on the wrong side of a stressed-out elephant, or a pissed-off hippo, or a hungry lion.

Fishing village on the Kazinga Channel, Uganda
Fishing village on the Kazinga Channel, Uganda

The villagers do sometimes cross paths with the wildlife. Around 500 people a year are killed by hippos in Africa, most of them when the hippo is out of the water. It’s so dangerous that the fishermen have to do all their fishing at night to avoid the hippos (which graze on land at night and spend their days in the water).

Lions sometimes steal livestock, which causes conflict between man and beast. Just after our visit, 11 lions were tragically poisoned by villagers in revenge for killing some cows. 

Read more: 46 Amazing African Safari Animals – A Photo Guide

Fishing village on the Kazinga Channel, Uganda
Families are allowed to live and fish on the Kazinga Channel

How to get to the Kazinga Channel in Uganda

Linn and I travelled on a private safari with a driver from Kampala. If you’re part of a group, booking a private driver can be a cost-effective and convenient way to travel: it will set you back about $100 a day for the car hire and the driver, plus fuel on top. Our driver Hassan, is highly recommended: contact me if you’d like me to put you in touch.

There are also numerous tour operators offering trips from Kampala to Queen Elizabeth National Park. You can also check out the huge range of Uganda safaris available on Tourradar.

Or you can rent a car and drive yourselves. If you do that, it’s easy enough to book your boat cruise directly through your hotel or Mweya Safari Lodge.

How much do boat safaris in Uganda cost?

Boat trips run four times a day, operated by Uganda Wildlife Authority and by Mweya Safari Lodge. They cost around $30 per person and last 2 hours. You can likely also book this trip through your driver, tour operator or accommodation.

We stayed at Bush Lodge – you can read more about my experience there in this post.

Read more: An Epic Uganda Itinerary In 2 Weeks

Pink backed pelicans and great cormorants, Uganda
More amazing birds on the Kazinga Channel in Uganda

Where to stay in Queen Elizabeth National Park

There are quite a few nice lodges in and around the park. Here are a couple of suggestions:

BUDGET: Bush Lodge: This is where we stayed for three nights. Bush Lodge offers budget-friendly accommodation close to the Kazinga Channel. Non-frills bandas and tents provide basic comfort with shared facilities. Expect communal dining under the stars and a bonfire, creating a social and memorable experience.

LUXURY: Buffalo Safari Lodge. With 19 cottages offering stunning views of the Kazinga Channel, Buffalo Safari Lodge is your more upmarket option. Recently refurbished with modern amenities and comfortable furnishings, the lodge features an infinity pool, restaurant, bar, and spa.

Wildlife on the banks of Kazinga Channel, Uganda
Wildlife on the banks of the Kazinga Channel

Where to eat near the Kazinga Channel

Before the boat ride, we went for lunch at a nearby cafe called Tembo Canteen. This is a reasonably-priced and popular cafe perched high on the hillside directly overlooking the Kazinga Channel, with incredible views out over the landscape. Even from high up, we could already see the animals grazing on the banks of the river below.

But if we wanted to see wildlife, we didn’t need to look nearly so far. There was some pretty impressive (and scary) bird life right there in the grounds of the restaurant!

Marabou Stork, Uganda
The marabou stork is also known as the ‘undertaker bird’

This guy is a Marabou Stork. They’re everywhere in Uganda, like giant, terrifying pigeons, over 1 metre tall, lurking round bins and rubbish dumps, eyeing up your food at outdoor cafes, ready to pounce.

I think they’re spectacularly horrible, with their glassy eyes, wispy grey hair, wrinkly pink jowls and leering glare, they remind me of a malevolent old man. It might not surprise you to learn that they’re known as the ‘undertaker bird’ because of their grey ‘coat’, skinny legs, hunched posture and creepy stare.

Marabou storks are just one of the birds you'll see at the Kazinga Channel in Uganda
Marabou storks are just one of the birds you’ll see at the Kazinga Channel in Uganda

But these are also the many reasons they’re fascinating to photograph. Look at the texture of that skin – they’re like something from a prehistoric age. You can see why scientists think that birds are descended from dinosaurs!

Although they are fascinating, they’re actually pretty scary. Totally fearless, they’ll think nothing of coming up while you’re eating and trying to steal food from your plate. Look at this guy, eyeing up Linn’s chips.  And I bet that huge beak can do some damage if you get on the wrong side of it!

Marabou storks will try to steal your food if you're not careful
Marabou storks will try to steal your food if you’re not careful

If you do have lunch at Tembo Cafe, as well as being aware of the storks, bear in mind that it can get very busy, so if you’re rushing to make your boat departure make sure you allow plenty of time as the service was slooooo-oooow!

Other boat safaris in Uganda

If you enjoy boat cruises and wildlife-spotting on the water, here are some other amazing Uganda boat safaris you might want to consider:

  • Murchison Falls Delta Boat Safari in Murchison Falls National Park: This boat cruise takes you on journey down the Victoria Nile, culminating in a breathtaking view of the mighty Murchison Falls. The thunderous roar of the falls creates a dramatic backdrop to this unforgettable experience.
  • Boat Cruise in Lake Mburo National Park: Lake Mburo’s tranquil waters offer a serene boat safari experience amidst stunning scenery. Look out for hippos, crocodiles, and waterbucks basking on the shores, as well as masses of birdlife including vibrant kingfishers, pelicans, and herons.
  • Wildlife Safari on Lake Bunyonyi: Head to the “Lake of Little Birds” to do a boat cruise on Lake Bunyonyi. This picturesque lake, dotted with numerous islands, is a peaceful haven that’s missed by most international tourists but definitely worth a visit.

Is a Kazinga Channel boat cruise worth it? My final thoughts.

I absolutely loved my Kazinga Channel safari and thought it was one of the absolute highlights our trip, not just to Queen Elizabeth National Park but to Uganda as a whole. 

On a sunny afternoon there’s literally no better way to relax, enjoy the scenery and feast your eyes on more wildlife than you can shake a stick at, all from the comfort of a cruising riverboat.

If you’re planning to visit Queen Elizabeth National Park, you’d be an idiot to miss it!

A family of elephants grazes on the banks of the Kazinga Channel in Uganda
A family of elephants grazes on the banks of the Kazinga Channel in Uganda
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