Guatemala is full of colour. From the intricately-woven blouses and skirts that Maya women wear, to the energetic markets bursting with goods in every hue, to sunflower yellow churches in many towns and villages, to the pastel-painted houses in Antigua and Xela, even on a dreary grey day there is always a rainbow pop of brightness to catch your eye.
And one of the most colourful traditions in Guatemala are the beautiful alfombras.
What are alfombras?
The word ‘alfombra’ means ‘carpet’ or ‘rug’ in Spanish, but the Guatemalan alfombras that you’ll hear everyone talking about are not interior furnishing but street decorations. They are a special tradition that takes place on major religious festival days, including Easter or Holy Week, and the festival of Corpus Christi.
These alfombras are not made of wool like normal carpets, but are ‘sawdust carpets’, works of art and worship, made by hand and carefully created in the street for one day only.
They’re usually made from dyed and coloured sawdust or wood shavings, but can also include pine needles, rice, branches, flowers, fruit and vegetables.
No two alfombras are the same, and designs include Catholic and Maya religious imagery, biblical scenes, birds, animals, flowers, geometric patterns and religious messaging.
How are the alfombras of Guatemala made?
Each alfombra is usually made by a church or community group. They can spend weeks or months coming up with their designs and practising at home. On the day of celebration, each group of anything from about four to ten people arrives early to create their alfombra in their allocated spot.
Starting from scratch, they build up the layers of the design in different colours, using sieves, carefully-designed stencils, brushes, spoons, and anything else they might need to perfect the artwork.
It can take about 5-6 hours to finish the masterpiece. Meanwhile, helpers continually spray the alfombras with water to keep the sawdust damp and prevent it from blowing away.
What happens to the alfombras?
The teams race against the clock to finish their designs before the procession starts. Then, at the appointed hour, religious leaders and church groups will process down the main route, carrying religious icons and walking over the carpets that have been painstakingly laid out to greet them.
During the Easter processions on Good Friday and Easter Sunday, the celebrants carry huge floats, called ‘andas’, which are made of carved wood featuring religious figures like Jesus, Mary and the saints. They’re normally very heavy, and require dozens of people to carry them through the streets.
And just like that, in a matter of a few minutes, the beautiful designs are gone again, trampled to pieces by hundreds of feet.
Why are alfombras important in Guatemala?
The tradition of alfombras in Guatemala comes from Spain, and was brought over during the conquest nearly 500 years ago.
When the Spanish arrived in Central America they introduced Catholicism and all the festivals and traditions that go with it, including the lavish Semana Santa (Holy Week) processions and, of course, the alfombras.
At that time, the designs were educational, showing images from the life and death of Jesus Christ, to help spread the message amongst the majority of the population who could not read. They may also be linked to the Bible story of when Jesus arrived in Jerusalem, and the people welcomed him by laying palm fronds in the street for his donkey to walk over.
Today you’ll not only find alfombras in Guatemala, but also in other parts of Central America including Mexico, Honduras and El Salvador – though the Guatemalan alfombras are particularly famous for being so detailed and colourful. If you’re going to see them in just one place in the world, Guatemala is an excellent option.
Seeing the alfombras for Corpus Christi in Xela Guatemala
I’d heard about the alfombras before I went travelling in Guatemala, but I wasn’t expecting to see any, as I arrived just after Holy Week. I was disappointed that I wouldn’t get a chance to photograph them, but I was also a bit relieved as I’m not a big fan of crowds, and Easter in the cities can get very crowded!
But then, one random morning in June while I was living in Quetzaltenango, I got a text from a friend, telling me I needed to grab my camera and get myself over to the main square right away as there was something cool going on.
I only lived five minutes’ walk away so I headed straight over and found the whole square buzzing with activity, with different groups busily making colourful alfombras!
Everyone was incredibly friendly, and happy to chat and let me take their photos.
They explained that that day, Sunday June 19th, was the Feast of Corpus Christi in Guatemala. Corpus Christi is a Catholic holiday that celebrates their belief in the real presence of the body and blood of Christ in the Eucharist.
Just like for Holy Week, church groups come together to build these beautiful works of art in the street around the main square.
I wandered around taking photos and even found a bar with a rooftop terrace where I could get a top-down view, before heading home for some lunch and to wait for the start of the main event: the Corpus Christi Procession.
The Corpus Christi Procession
After the 12 pm service in Xela’s main cathedral, the clergy and congregation processed round the square, walking on the carpets that I’d seen being created that morning.
Accompanying them were the 12 Captains of Our Lady of the Rosary. These women, in their ceremonial dress, represent the people of the city during Catholic ceremonies and their costume signifies that they are important members of society.
As they walked, the crowd crushed and messed up the beautiful designs. Behind them, an army of sweepers and cleaners quickly brushed away and bagged up all the sawdust, so that by the time the procession had made a full circuit of the square and returned to the cathedral, there was almost no evidence that the alfombras were ever there!
It’s amazing that every year they spend all that time and effort building these colourful creations only for them to be destroyed a few hours later.
Where and when to see alfombras in Guatemala
The most famous place to see alfombras is in Antigua Guatemala, during Semana Santa. Throughout the entire Holy Week there are celebrations and processions in different parishes and church neighbourhoods, but the main ones are on Palm Sunday, Good Friday, Holy Saturday, and Easter Sunday.
A good place to find out what events are taking place is by joining the Expats Living in Guatemala Facebook group, where helpful locals usually post the timetables when they are published and offer other helpful tips.
Be aware that if you do plan to visit Antigua Guatemala during Easter week, it will be very crowded. Book well ahead as accommodation fills up fast. And when you are out and about, try not to carry anything valuable and keep an extra close watch on your belongings, as the pickpockets will be out in force!
You can also alfombras in Guatemala City, Quetzaltenango and you may see smaller ones in other towns and villages across the country, not only at Easter but also for the festival of Corpus Christi.
Where to next?
Why not check out some of my other colourful Guatemala posts?
- Livingston Guatemala: A Photo Guide To This Quirky Caribbean Town
- Guatemala People: 30 Portraits Of Guatemalans That Show Their Rich Culture
- Crater Azul: Is Guatemala’s Gorgeous Blue Crater Overhyped?
- Guatemala People: 30 Portraits Of Guatemalans That Show Their Rich Culture
- The Thrilling Volcan De Acatenango Hike In Antigua Guatemala
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