• What To See and Do in Uganda – 28 Highlights

    Uganda! A country of rolling green hills, misty valleys and craggy mountains. Where lions stalk …

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  • An Unhelpful Guide to… New York & The Rockaways

    If you’ve read my Unhelpful Guide to Boston (and if you haven’t, why …

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  • Glamping in the Sahara Desert, Morocco

    As a travel destination Morocco just about has it all: beaches, mountains, deserts, vibrant cities, …

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  • 19 Wildlife Photography Tips for Beginners

    It’s fair to say that my absolute favourite type of photography is wildlife photography.  …

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  • 13 Top Tips for Taking Photos of Markets

    I’ve photographed markets from Cuba to Myanmar, and from Tanzania to Hungary, and I …

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  • Chimpanzee Trekking in Kibale, Uganda

    The 42-year-old chimpanzee lounges lazily on the branch, eyeing us congenially. Far from being bothered …

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  • Trek Nyiragongo: the World’s Largest Lava Lake

    Imagine a place straight out of fantasy and mythology: a portal to the centre of …

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  • Behind the Scenes on Safari in Tanzania

    Africa. The Serengeti. The Ngorongoro Crater. The names alone conjure up thrilling images of vast …

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  • The wall art of Naples – where old meets new

    The wall art of Naples – where old meets new

    Naples is one of Italy’s largest, oldest, and most colourful cities, and like any Italian city, it’s full to bursting of centuries-old art.   From its UNESCO-heritage-labelled Centro Storico, to the stunning hilltop monastery Certosa di San Martino, the city is generously sprinkled with palaces, churches and grand houses – …
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    The real Lonely Planet guide to Naples

    The real Lonely Planet guide to Naples

    Like most people, I never go abroad without a copy of the latest local guidebook.  And more often than not, that guidebook will be the Lonely Planet.  Ever since I first went travelling with the 1997 edition of ‘South America on a shoestring’ (all 1170 pages of it, weighing nearly 3/4…
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    The Beautiful Pagodas of Bagan in Myanmar

    The Beautiful Pagodas of Bagan in Myanmar

    Have you noticed how, when you arrive at a ‘must-see’ place, it often doesn’t look like the photos you’d seen in the brochure or online?  You turn up expecting a massive ‘Wow!’ moment, and you get more of an ‘Oh… ok… cool.  What’s for lunch?’ That seems …
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    India: a nation of selfie-lovers

    India: a nation of selfie-lovers

    The India found in the guidebooks is a magical and mysterious place.  Where exquisite palaces gleam and sparkle on the shores of majestic rivers.  Where dark-eyed beauties walk demurely between crumbling temples, their vibrant saris wafting the fragrance of perfume and spices.  Where monkeys play amongst statues of ancient gods …
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    All aboard the Indian Night Train

    All aboard the Indian Night Train

    The classic stereotype of Indian rail travel, in many Western minds, is the one from films like Slumdog Millionaire.  Crowded, dirty trains, often delayed, idling for hours with no explanation.  People leaning out of open doors, perched between the carriages, or even sitting on the roof.  Narrow, uncomfortable sleeper berths.  …
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    India’s cash crisis – a tourist’s guide

    India’s cash crisis – a tourist’s guide

    When I thought about travelling to South India in December on a group tour, there were a few challenges I could foresee.  Would I get on with the group?  Would the heat and humidity be unbearable?  Would I manage to pack the right stuff?  Would I struggle with the long&…
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    Ol Doinyo Lengai – Climb the Mountain of God

    Ol Doinyo Lengai – Climb the Mountain of God

    Most climbers travelling to Tanzania have only one target in mind: the towering summit of the six-kilometre high Mount Kilimanjaro.  Ask them if they’re planning on climbing Ol Doinyo Lengai and odds are you’ll get a blank stare.  Ol Donny-who?! But if you want a serious challenge, in …
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    The Unsung Heroes of Kilimanjaro

    The Unsung Heroes of Kilimanjaro

    No one survives even a day on Kilimanjaro, let alone making it to the top, without a frankly embarrassing amount of support from an enormous team of guides and porters.  It’s their job to carry your stuff, cook your meals, supply you with safe drinking water, put up your …
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    How To Climb Kilimanjaro In 10 Steps

    How To Climb Kilimanjaro In 10 Steps

    So your itchy feet have got the better of you and you’ve decided you want to climb Kilimanjaro?  Excellent decision!  But now you’ve got to actually organise and (eeek!) do the damn thing!  Here’s how… (Disclaimer: it does take a few more than 10 steps to get to …
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    Kilimanjaro-Lemosho-Route 8 – Descent

    Kilimanjaro-Lemosho-Route 8 – Descent

    This is the eighth and final part of my day-by-day account of what it was really like to climb the Lemosho Route on Mount Kilimanjaro.  If you missed it, click here for Day Seven. Today’s post covers the descent. What it’s like to finally go down after all …
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    Kilimanjaro-Lemosho-Route 7 – Summit Night

    Kilimanjaro-Lemosho-Route 7 – Summit Night

    This is the seventh part of my day-by-day account of what it was like to climb Mount Kilimanjaro.  If you missed it, Day Six is here. Today: the day we’d all been waiting for. Kilimanjaro Summit Night! If you think it’s hard having to wake up at 4 am …
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    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 6 – Base Camp

    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 6 – Base Camp

    This is the sixth part of my day-by-day account of what it was really like to climb the Lemosho Route up Mount Kilimanjaro.  If you missed it, Day Five is here. I woke well before the morning wake-up call on Day Six to a weird feeling in my face.  I …
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    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 5 – Barranco Wall

    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 5 – Barranco Wall

    This is the fifth part of my day-by-day account of what it was really like to climb the Lemosho Route up Mount Kilimanjaro.  If you missed it, here’s Day Four or start from the beginning with Day 1 – Getting Started. Today I’ll talk about the dreaded Barranco Wall. How …
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    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 4 – Lava Tower

    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 4 – Lava Tower

    This is the fourth part of my day-by-day account of what it was really like to climb the Lemosho Route up Mount Kilimanjaro.  If you missed it click this link to go to Day 3 – Shira Plateau.  Today I’ll talk about the walk up to the Lava Tower. Altitude…
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    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 3 – Shira Plateau

    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 3 – Shira Plateau

    This is the third part of my day-by-day account of what it was really like to climb Mount Kilimanjaro.  If you missed it, Day Two is here. As dawn broke on day three, and with barely a cloud in the sky, we got our first proper look at where we …
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    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 2 – The Forest

    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 2 – The Forest

    This is the second part of my day-by-day account of what it was really like to climb Mount Kilimanjaro.  If you missed it, Day One is here. It’s not something that had occurred to me before starting, but the nights on the mountain are LOOOONG.  The sun set at …
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