• An Unhelpful Guide to… New York & The Rockaways

    If you’ve read my Unhelpful Guide to Boston (and if you haven’t, why …

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  • Buying Leather At Chouara Tannery In Fes

    Leaning over the balcony rail with my camera, I watched the workers in the courtyard …

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  • An Unhelpful Guide to… Boston

    It’s been a while since I’ve written one of these Unhelpful Guides. Yes, …

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  • Glamping in the Sahara Desert, Morocco

    As a travel destination Morocco just about has it all: beaches, mountains, deserts, vibrant cities, …

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  • Ten Reasons To Do Group Holidays

    Group holidays can get a bit of a bad press. Horror stories abound of being …

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  • A Morocco Two Week Itinerary

    Morocco has been on my bucket list for years. I’m not kidding. Like, 20 years! …

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  • How To Take Great Photos Of Wildlife

    It’s fair to say that my absolute favourite thing to photograph above everything else …

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  • Close Encounters in Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda

    Welcome back! This is Part 2 of my trip to Uganda’s most popular National Park, …

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  • The Beautiful Pagodas of Bagan in Myanmar

    The Beautiful Pagodas of Bagan in Myanmar

    Have you noticed how, when you arrive at a ‘must-see’ place, it often doesn’t look like the photos you’d seen in the brochure or online?  You turn up expecting a massive ‘Wow!’ moment, and you get more of an ‘Oh… ok… cool.  What’s for lunch?’ That seems …
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    India: a nation of selfie-lovers

    India: a nation of selfie-lovers

    The India found in the guidebooks is a magical and mysterious place.  Where exquisite palaces gleam and sparkle on the shores of majestic rivers.  Where dark-eyed beauties walk demurely between crumbling temples, their vibrant saris wafting the fragrance of perfume and spices.  Where monkeys play amongst statues of ancient gods …
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    All aboard the Indian Night Train

    All aboard the Indian Night Train

    The classic stereotype of Indian rail travel, in many Western minds, is the one from films like Slumdog Millionaire.  Crowded, dirty trains, often delayed, idling for hours with no explanation.  People leaning out of open doors, perched between the carriages, or even sitting on the roof.  Narrow, uncomfortable sleeper berths.  …
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    India’s cash crisis – a tourist’s guide

    India’s cash crisis – a tourist’s guide

    When I thought about travelling to South India in December on a group tour, there were a few challenges I could foresee.  Would I get on with the group?  Would the heat and humidity be unbearable?  Would I manage to pack the right stuff?  Would I struggle with the long&…
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    Ol Doinyo Lengai – Climb the Mountain of God

    Ol Doinyo Lengai – Climb the Mountain of God

    Most climbers travelling to Tanzania have only one target in mind: the towering summit of the six-kilometre high Mount Kilimanjaro.  Ask them if they’re planning on climbing Ol Doinyo Lengai and odds are you’ll get a blank stare.  Ol Donny-who?! But if you want a serious challenge, in …
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    The Unsung Heroes of Kilimanjaro

    The Unsung Heroes of Kilimanjaro

    No one survives even a day on Kilimanjaro, let alone making it to the top, without a frankly embarrassing amount of support from an enormous team of guides and porters.  It’s their job to carry your stuff, cook your meals, supply you with safe drinking water, put up your …
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    How To Climb Kilimanjaro In 10 Steps

    How To Climb Kilimanjaro In 10 Steps

    So your itchy feet have got the better of you and you’ve decided you want to climb Kilimanjaro?  Excellent decision!  But now you’ve got to actually organise and (eeek!) do the damn thing!  Here’s how… (Disclaimer: it does take a few more than 10 steps to get to …
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    Kilimanjaro-Lemosho-Route 8 – Descent

    Kilimanjaro-Lemosho-Route 8 – Descent

    This is the eighth and final part of my day-by-day account of what it was really like to climb the Lemosho Route on Mount Kilimanjaro.  If you missed it, click here for Day Seven. Today’s post covers the descent. What it’s like to finally go down after all …
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    Kilimanjaro-Lemosho-Route 7 – Summit Night

    Kilimanjaro-Lemosho-Route 7 – Summit Night

    This is the seventh part of my day-by-day account of what it was like to climb Mount Kilimanjaro.  If you missed it, Day Six is here. Today: the day we’d all been waiting for. Kilimanjaro Summit Night! If you think it’s hard having to wake up at 4 am …
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    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 6 – Base Camp

    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 6 – Base Camp

    This is the sixth part of my day-by-day account of what it was really like to climb the Lemosho Route up Mount Kilimanjaro.  If you missed it, Day Five is here. I woke well before the morning wake-up call on Day Six to a weird feeling in my face.  I …
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    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 5 – Barranco Wall

    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 5 – Barranco Wall

    This is the fifth part of my day-by-day account of what it was really like to climb the Lemosho Route up Mount Kilimanjaro.  If you missed it, here’s Day Four or start from the beginning with Day 1 – Getting Started. Today I’ll talk about the dreaded Barranco Wall. How …
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    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 4 – Lava Tower

    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 4 – Lava Tower

    This is the fourth part of my day-by-day account of what it was really like to climb the Lemosho Route up Mount Kilimanjaro.  If you missed it click this link to go to Day 3 – Shira Plateau.  Today I’ll talk about the walk up to the Lava Tower. Altitude…
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    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 3 – Shira Plateau

    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 3 – Shira Plateau

    This is the third part of my day-by-day account of what it was really like to climb Mount Kilimanjaro.  If you missed it, Day Two is here. As dawn broke on day three, and with barely a cloud in the sky, we got our first proper look at where we …
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    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 2 – The Forest

    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 2 – The Forest

    This is the second part of my day-by-day account of what it was really like to climb Mount Kilimanjaro.  If you missed it, Day One is here. It’s not something that had occurred to me before starting, but the nights on the mountain are LOOOONG.  The sun set at …
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    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 1 – First Day

    Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 1 – First Day

    For several years I had talked occasionally about how ‘One Day’ I would climb Kilimanjaro.  It was one of those challenges that sounded like it might be a Good Thing to do (in a totally bonkers-painful, crazy-yet-hopefully-rewarding kind of way) but for a long time looked like it would be …
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    How To Prepare For Kilimanjaro – Weeks 4 to 1

    How To Prepare For Kilimanjaro – Weeks 4 to 1

    This is the second part of my guide to how to shop, train, pack and prepare to climb Mount Kilimanjaro, doing the Lemosho Route with Exodus Travels*.  Read the first part here. FOUR WEEKS TO GO I’m starting to get really nervous now. I keep waking up in the …
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