A Local’s Guide to Kelso Scotland: The Charming Borders Town

Regular readers of this website will know I write everything on here.

Partly because I’m lucky enough to have so many travels of my own to share, partly because I only want to share places I’ve been to and am genuinely excited about, and partly because I’m a total control freak and don’t trust anyone else to write things properly (especially not in the age of AI).

That’s why I’ve never accepted a guest post on Passport & Pixels. Until now.

I could have written this guide to Kelso Scotland myself. I’ve been there many times, because it’s where my sister and her family live. In fact all the photos below were taken by me.

But then I thought, why not call in a favour and get them to write it for me? After all, who better to write a post about Kelso than someone who lives there?

And fortunately, everyone in my family is clever and articulate, so I knew I could trust them to do an excellent job. And they have, as you will see.

So without further ado, let me hand over to my brilliant sister and oldest niece to fill you in on all the best things to do in Kelso Scotland.

Things to do in Kelso: a local’s guide to this charming Scottish Borders town

by Harriet and Lucy Campbell

Sorry, Bella fans, she didn’t write this one. She’s asked us – Harriet, her big sister (age wise, if not in height) and Lucy (her oldest niece) – to write this guide to Kelso and the Scottish Borders.

That’s because although she visits this area pretty often, we’re the real Kelso experts. Because we live here. 

In fact, Lucy doesn’t ever remember living anywhere else (although she did, but she was three when we moved here so we’ll excuse her).

Here’s an odd thing. When you live in a place for a while you start to think it’s dull and nothing ever happens.

But actually when we sat down to brainstorm what we might write, we came up with a long list of things to do in Kelso Scotland. Lucy enjoyed researching the cafés too.

So allow us to introduce you to our home town, and all the brilliant things there are to do in Kelso.

Where is Kelso?

The town of Kelso sits in the Scottish Borders region – so it’s in Scotland, but close to the border with England.

It’s only about 45 miles (or an hour’s drive) southeast of Edinburgh, making it a perfect place for a day trip from Scotland’s beautiful capital city.

This means that it’s a bit of a hidden gem, as despite being close to Edinburgh and less than 2 hours drive from Glasgow, it’s surrounded by stunning countryside and has more in common with the rural beauties of the Highlands and Islands than with Scotland’s famous cities.

Introducing the Scottish Borders

The Scottish Borders is a big but pretty sparsely populated area.

It covers nearly 2,000 square miles stretching from the border with England most of the way up to Edinburgh, and from Peebles in the west to the coast at Coldingham in the east – but not including Berwick-upon-Tweed, which despite the Scottish-sounding name is actually in England.

That makes it the 6^th biggest Council area in Scotland, but with not quite 120,000 people living here, it’s only the 17^th most populated.

There are only ten main towns in the Borders: Melrose, Jedburgh, Eyemouth, Duns, Kelso, Galashiels, Hawick, Selkirk, Innerleithen and Peebles.

Although they’re all pretty small (Gala – the locals’ nickname for Galashiels – is the biggest at 15,000 people) they punch above their economic weight and are big draws for locals and people from further afield.  

Obviously though, Kelso is the best. Don’t just take our word for it though. Sir Walter Scott said ‘it is the most beautiful if not the most romantic village in Scotland’.

If you want to see Kelso and the Borders in an easy day trip from Edinburgh, this Scottish Borders day tour takes in many of the Borders highlights including a stop in Kelso.

Read more: 13 Things To Do In Saffron Walden: A Local’s Complete Guide

A very brief history of Kelso Scotland

Kelso is located at the confluence of the Tweed and the Teviot Rivers and is still a mecca for salmon fishing as a result.

The town grew up around Kelso Abbey, one of the four great Borders Abbeys, which was founded in 1128. The ruins of the Abbey are still standing and if you come into Kelso across its historic Rennie bridge, they will be one of the first things you see.  

The bridge was designed by Scottish civil engineer John Rennie, and is is a prototype for London’s famous Waterloo Bridge, which Rennie also designed.

Kelso still has a thriving market and an array of great shops, cafes and things to do. It’s also a great base for exploring the wider Borders. 

Top things to do in Kelso

1/ Visit Floors Castle

A stunning example of over-the-top Georgian and Victorian architecture, Floors Castle is the historic seat of the Duke of Roxburgh. The current Duke still lives there with his wife and family, making it the largest inhabited house in Scotland. 

The house is open for visitors throughout the summer, and the grounds are open all year round, with gorgeous walled gardens and two cafes (for those of us who prefer cake to French porcelain and stuffed birds).

In the summer Floors Castle also hosts some incredible outdoor concerts, with past headliners including Bryan Adams, Faithless, Michael Bublé and many fabulous tribute acts (ABBA in 2021 was a particular highlight).

You can check out the events schedule here.

2/ Explore Kelso’s cafes and restaurants

Kelso is full to the brim with lovely cafes and restaurants for you to enjoy.

For cafes, our favourites are Café U for friendly staff, cosy café food and ethical coffee, and The Cream Chimneys which by day serves great cafe food with a Scottish twist and by night a variety of evening meals including tapas, platters and a great wine selection.

For a more fancy meal you might prefer Scott’s of Kelso, a French style bistro attached to the local butchers or Dickson’s of Ednam, a new tapas and cocktail bar.

For classic pub food we recommend The Cobbles and for pub drinks we suggest you check out Rutherford’s Micro Pub – the smallest pub in Scotland.

If it’s extreme luxury you’re looking for, the Schloss Roxburghe Hotel, about four miles out of town, hosts three restaurants including a fine dining one.

And finally, no trip would be complete without ice cream. An absolute must-do while in Kelso is visit Becattelli Artisan Gelato, which offers a variety of real Italian gelatos and sorbets made in small batches on site.

3/ Visit Kelso’s Historic Market

Right in the centre of Kelso is its historic Market Square, which is dominated by the impressive neoclassical Kelso Town Hall building (see the first photo).

The square hosts a vibrant and bustling Farmers Market on the last Saturday of every month.

With over 24 regular stall holders, there is a variety of local produce and artisan items to purchase. Including local honey, locally-raised meat, excellent sausage rolls, locally made candles and, of course a variety of (local) sweet treats.

If you can, definitely plan your trip around a market weekend.

4/ Check out Kelso Abbey

After visiting the market, don’t forget to check out the atmospheric ruins of Kelso Abbey, just a couple of minutes’ walk from the market square.

Kelso Abbey was founded in the 1100s and was one of Scotland’s richest religious houses. Unfortunately it’s currently closed for repairs, but you can still admire it from the outside.

5/ Enjoy Luxury Afternoon Tea and Spa at the Schloss Roxburghe

By far the fanciest thing to do in Kelso, the Schloss Roxburghe Hotel is a luxury hotel and spa.

Hosted in the gorgeous dower house for the Roxburghe Estate, the hotel was completely revamped in 2023 and now comes complete with a modern spa.

As well as pampering, the hotel offers luxury afternoon tea, in their ornate sitting rooms. Well worth a visit if you’re looking for a lavish afternoon treat.

And if you’re looking for a 5* place to stay in Kelso, this is it!

6/ Explore the stunning landscapes

The Scottish Borders are home to two of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas. And thanks to its sparsely populated nature, there is much to explore.

Around Kelso we recommend in particular walking along the River Tweed to the Roxburghe Hotel – that way you’ll have earned your cream tea when you get there!

For some history you could go via the ancient Roxburgh Castle ruins on your way. 

But if you have a car, it’s easy to drive out of Kelso into the Borders countryside to admire the views.

You can find more information about walks in the Borders here.

7/ Shop at some of our amazing small businesses

Kelso has a small but very vibrant town centre full of charming independent boutiques featuring some beautiful Scottish brands.

For gorgeous homewares we recommend Kitty and Gus, Catherine & Co, the House of Sika and Dōr.

If clothing is more what you’re searching for, Kelso boasts two luxury clothing stores – Humes Outfitters is a local Kelso brand that makes luxury country clothes and is known globally.

Kelso also contains a branch of Hawico Cashmere, a global cashmere brand located in the nearby town of Hawick – the home of British cashmere. They often have discounted lines from their central Edinburgh store, so it’s a great place to pick up a bargain.  

For the drinkers, Beercraft has a huge range of ales, gins and whiskys and Paul, the owner is hugely knowledgeable. 

Meanwhile 20 Storey is a trove of great books and gifts.

8/ Discover the amazing sporting culture

Like most Borders towns, Kelso has a rich sporting history.

By far the most popular sport in the Borders is rugby (Union obviously… there’s no Rugby League around here) and throughout the rugby season there are plenty of opportunities to watch the black-and-white jerseyed Kelso players in action.

The rugby doesn’t stop as the season ends though. The home of Rugby Sevens – Melrose – is just a few miles down the road. And so, throughout April and May each Borders town hosts its own Rugby Sevens festival.

Whilst the largest is undisputedly the world famous (really) Melrose Sevens, Kelso definitely puts on a show. Expect a little bit of rugby and a whole lot of alcohol…

Kelso is also home to the Borders only ice rink which is open for curling in the weekdays and skating on the weekends throughout the winter months (October – April). 

In the Summer, you’ll also hear leather on willow at Kelso Cricket Club, the oldest cricket club in Scotland. We also have a tennis club, mountain biking trails, golf club, swimming pool and a bowling green.

And finally, if it’s horse racing you’re into, Kelso even has its own racecourse. Between September and May Kelso Races hosts racing over steeplechase fences and hurdles – including family days and a Ladies’ Day to rival the more famous one at Ascot.

9/ Enjoy local festivities during Civic Week

The only thing that gets Borders locals more excited than rugby is the annual event known as the Common Riding Festival, or Civic Week.

This takes place during the third week of July, and is a huge celebration with funfairs, fancy dress parades, horse processions, bike races and a grand ball – all rooted in Kelso’s turbulent history.

Throughout the centuries, the Scottish Borders saw many battles, often switching hands between the English and Scottish forces in ever increasingly violent ways. 

To defend themselves from attack or from raiding robbers, local townspeople would ‘ride out’ on horseback to the furthest reaches of each town’s ‘common land’, often lead by an elected local town leader.

Today this tradition is still celebrated in many of the Borders towns. The townsfolk elect an eligible young bachelor to become the Kelso Laddie and lead the rideouts to defend Kelso’s territory.

Accommodation in Kelso

While Kelso is great for a day trip from Edinburgh, it’s also worth staying a few nights and using it as a base to explore the rest of the Scottish Borders.

Since we live in Kelso we’ve never stayed at most of these places, but they come highly recommended by visiting friends.

Top pick: Schloss Roxburghe hotel

As mentioned above, the Schloss Roxburghe is a luxury hotel set in the old dower house of the Roxburgh Estate. With an onsite spa, 5 restaurants and a golf course, this is the perfect pick for an ultra swanky stay. Booking.com rating: 9.2.

In town: Ednam House hotel

Popular among fishing fans and situated right in the heart of Kelso, the Ednam House Hotel is also situated in a former stately home with a gorgeous terrace looking straight out onto the river Tweed.

Self-Catering: Crabtree & Crabtree

Crabtree & Crabtree are a local company who specialise in high-quality holiday rentals in and around the Scottish Borders and North Northumberland.

With many different options from cottages to castles, there is something for everyone.

Our (completely unbiased) favourite is Little Hermitage, a two bed, two bath disabled-friendly and dog-friendly cottage just a three minute walk from the centre of Kelso. We can vouch for its quality – it’s at the end of our garden. The hosts are particularly lovely!

How to spend a perfect day in Kelso Scotland

With so much to see and do, you might be feeling overwhelmed! So here’s our suggestion for a how to spend a relaxed day in our lovely home town of Kelso.

• Start your day with a wander along the Cobby in the early morning light before breakfast at Cafe U or Seasons coffee shops.
• Then head up Roxburgh Street to pass through the golden gates and walk up to Floors Castle.  
• Enjoy the walled gardens and opulent interiors of Floors Castle.
• Have lunch at the terrace café before heading back into town.
• Reward yourself with coffee and a cake or gelato before browsing round the shops.  
• End your day with cocktails and tapas at Dickson’s of Ednam, or fabulous French food at Scott’s just across the road.

Top places to visit near Kelso

Whilst you definitely shouldn’t miss Kelso, the surrounding area is also lovely. All of the areas listed below would make a wonderful day trip and are less than an hour from town.

And of course the reverse is true. If you’re going to be in Edinburgh or elsewhere in the Borders, Kelso makes a brilliant addition to your itinerary.

1/ The surrounding Borders towns 

Kelso is not very far away from any other towns in the Borders. Even Peebles is under an hour away and has the added bonus of a very good chocolate shop.

Each of the Borders towns has its own charm and is well worth a visit. Our favourites include Melrose which has lots of lovely shops and a magnificent viaduct, and St Boswells for its award winning bookshop.

If you’re into historic ruins, Jedburgh has the best abbey in the Borders (yes, it’s even better than our own one in Kelso,  or the ones at Melrose and Dryburgh). If you’re a fan of hiking as well, you can even walk the 68-mile-long Borders Abbeys Way, which connects all four of these great ruined abbeys.

If you’re driving, you might want to check out this digital Scottish Borders road trip guide, which covers suggested itineraries and stops from Edinburgh and across the borders.

2/ North Northumberland

With stunning coastal scenery and historic sights, North Northumberland is just on the other side of the border with England, and can be reached by car in less than 30 minutes.

Home to an Area Of Natural Beauty, a National Park and England’s largest forest, it truly is a wonderful place.

You can take a day trip from Kelso to explore its stunning coasts, wonderful castles (including Bamburgh and Dunstaneburgh), and quirky villages.

Favourites include Ford, Etal and Heatherslaw, which has a working watermill and miniature railway. All of these are within 30 minutes’ drive of Kelso.

It’s also only an hour’s drive from Kelso to Seahouses, from where you can get a boat out to the Farne Islands. In the spring and summer they’re one of the best places in the UK to see puffins!

3/ Edinburgh

You know it, you love it, there are about a million things to do and about a million blogposts with recommendations.

If Bella hasn’t done one, she probably should as she’s lived in Edinburgh and we haven’t. We highly recommend you spend a few days there. 

In fact, in all likelihood you’re probably reading this post because you’re planning to visit and might be looking for great day trips from Edinburgh.

If that’s the case, then Kelso is easily reachable from Edinburgh, and would be a great addition to your itinerary.

If you’re short on time, this tour from Edinburgh takes in Kelso as well as other Borders highlights in a single day trip.

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How to get to Kelso in Scotland

By road: The easiest way to get to Kelso is by car. From London and the South, follow the A1 North until the A697 via Wooler. From Edinburgh and the North, take the A68 down to Carfraemill and then the A697 and A6089 following the helpful signs.

By train: The two nearest train stations are:

• Tweedbank, 17 miles to the northwest which is served by half hourly trains from Edinburgh.
• Berwick-Upon-Tweed, 25 miles east of Kelso. Berwick is on the LNER mainline that connects London with Edinburgh, with a train at least once an hour.

From either station, you’ll then need to rent a car, grab a taxi, or hop on a bus.

By bus: The most frequent bus to serve Kelso is the 67 service which runs hourly between Galashiels and Berwick-Upon-Tweed, stopping in Kelso.

By plane: The two nearest airports are both about an hour and a half away by car with Edinburgh 50 miles to the north and Newcastle 62 miles to the south.

Is Kelso worth visiting?

A big thank you to Harriet and Lucy for this brilliant insider’s guide to Kelso. We hope you found it useful.

But as a visitor and not a resident, it falls to me (Bella) to answer this final question. And obviously I’m a little biased too, because when I go to Kelso I have lovely family to visit.

But I do think Kelso is worth visiting. While there are masses of other deservedly famous places in Scotland to visit, Kelso is a very pretty town, totally non-touristy and unspoiled.

If you’re looking for a place that’s real, authentic Scotland, with bags of history, great shopping and dining, completely safe and friendly, within easy reach of both Edinburgh and masses of gorgeous countryside, then Kelso is just the place for you.

And if you happen to spot any of my family while you’re there, say hi from me!

Where to next?

If you enjoyed this Kelso post, why not try some of my other UK posts?

• Seeing Gannets at the Incredible Bass Rock in Scotland
• Scotland’s Isle of May: Puffins, Beautiful Landscapes and More
• Red Kites In Wales: How To Photograph These Majestic Birds
• How to See and Photograph Puffins in the UK: 20 FAQs
• Visiting the Skomer Island Puffins in Wales
• My Perfect Pembrokeshire Itinerary: A 5 Day Coast Road Trip
• An Unhelpful Guide to… Canterbury

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