Pembrokeshire is one of the prettiest parts of the UK. Often overlooked in favour of the drama of Scotland or the summer holiday vibe of Cornwall, Pembrokeshire has just as much to offer, and without the crowds. But with so many things to do in Pembrokeshire, how do you decide what to squeeze into your trip, and what to leave out?
Well, depending on how much time you have, you may not have to.
One of the great things about Pembrokeshire is that it’s small: most Pembrokeshire attractions are no more than 20 minutes’ drive away from one another, and to get from the north to south coasts only takes an hour. So you can fit several activities into a single day, and still have time for a sunset swim or a pint in a pretty Welsh village pub at the end.
I spent five days in Pembrokeshire and managed to fit in masses of wildlife, history, stunning coastal walks and beautiful beaches, and now I’ve combined them all into a handy list of highlights and recommendations.
Rather than give you a day-by-day itinerary, I’ve listed them in order of travel in a clockwise direction from south to north, with a suggested amount of time to spend at each place. That way you can work out your own schedule depending on your preferences.
Depending on how much walking you want to do, I’d suggest you need 5-7 days to enjoy them all.
1/ Tenby
Tenby is one of the most popular places to visit in Pembrokeshire. A buzzing seaside town, it does everything a holiday town should, with candy-coloured houses, three sandy beaches, cute seafront B&Bs and guesthouses, and plenty of shops selling local fudge, sweets and buckets and spades.
You could easily spend a few days here just strolling round its charming town centre or playing on the beach, but Tenby also has plenty of history, with the small ruins of the 12th century Tenby Castle overlooking the sea, and directly opposite, St Catherine’s Island, home to a 19th century fort.
When the tide is out you can walk across the beach and explore the island and fort, but be careful not to get cut off by the rising sea! When I was there the island was closed because the tide was coming in; I spent just a few minutes taking photos at the bottom of the steps and by the time I was done I had to take off my shoes and paddle back!
If you want to stay longer in Tenby you could also take a boat trip to Caldey Island, a holy island with a monastery still occupied by Cistercian monks. Boats to Caldey Island leave from Tenby beach or harbour take about 20 minutes.
Time needed in Tenby
If you’re pushed for time you can get a feel for Tenby in an afternoon. I’d suggest a minimum of a day here, but plenty of people base themselves here and stay all week.
What makes Tenby one of the best places to visit in Pembrokeshire
Tenby is both pretty and historic, and has a really relaxed holiday vibe. Take a walk round to North Beach late in the afternoon and enjoy the views back across the harbour with the sun hitting all those colourful buildings
Where to stay in Tenby
On my road trip I stayed one night in Giltar Hotel, a stylish guest house right on the esplanade with amazing views out to sea.
2/ Carew Castle and Tidal Mill
There are so many castles in Wales, if you’re a fan of history and old buildings, you’re really spoiled for choice. On my road trip I opted for two of Pembrokeshire’s finest, Carew Castle and Pembroke Castle (see next entry in the list).
Carew Castle was founded in the 11th century, though much of what you can see today was built by Sir Nicholas de Carew who died in 1311.
Today it’s a crumbling ruin, with plants growing out of the walls and a protected colony of bats living in one of the towers. I loved it because it’s impossibly atmospheric; you can almost feel the history seeping out of the stones and sense the ghosts as you tread in their footsteps.
As part of your ticket you also get access to the Tidal Mill, which is an historic flour mill that used to be powered by water. One of the two mill wheels is from 1801 but there has been a mill on this site at least as far back as the 16th century.
Today it’s a museum where you can see the old water wheels and the machinery used for grinding wheat to make flour. The walk from Carew Castle round to the Tidal Mill and back along the other side of the millpond is about a mile and offers fabulous views of Carew Castle.
If you have kids, you can also have fun catching crabs from the causeway; crabbing gear can be bought in the Mill shop.
Entry to Carew Castle and Tidal Mill costs £6.50 and can be booked online here. Parking is free.
Time needed at Carew Castle
If you’re rushed you can see just the castle in half an hour, but I’d allow 2-3 hours to see the castle and mill, get an ice cream from the cafe, and do the circular walk around the lake.
What makes Carew Castle one of the best things to do in Pembrokeshire
Not only is the castle itself fascinating and beautiful, the walk round the castle pond is easily manageable and offers some splendid views.
3/ Pembroke Castle
If one castle isn’t enough on your Pembrokeshire road trip, why not have two?!
Pembroke Castle was the birthplace of Henry VII, first king in the legendary Tudor Dynasty, and is steeped in over 1000 years of (often quite gory) history. It’s what I would call a *proper* castle, with masses of towers, staircases, narrow corridors, and ramparts giving amazing views out over the surrounding area (so you can watch out for advancing armies!).
As well as visiting inside the castle, make sure you do the short circular walk around the outside of the castle pond to really appreciate this historic building’s magnificence.
Tickets to Pembroke Castle cost £7 and must be booked online (but I did mine on my phone while standing outside). There’s parking a short walk from the castle; you’ll need to pay and display.
Time needed at Pembroke Castle
Allow 1-2 hours here to explore it all, or maybe a little bit longer if you have kids. There’s also a nice cafe in the castle grounds where you can stop for cake or an ice cream.
What makes Pembroke Castle one of the best things to do on a Pembrokeshire road trip
The signage, routes and explanations at Pembroke Castle have been well laid out, making a visit really rewarding and a great experience for both adults and children.
4/ Barafundle Bay
There are lots of beaches in Wales, but Barafundle Bay is the one that wins all the awards. A wide strip of golden sand in a sheltered bay, with clear blue-green waters, if you love beaches, this is pretty much as good as it gets.
The car park for Barafundle is at Stackpole Quay, and it’s then a 20-30 minute walk over the cliffs to reach this pristine beach. There are no facilities so bring everything you need with you – if you need the toilet you’ll have to walk back to the car park!
If you don’t have enough time to spend a whole day at the beach, you could just enjoy the walk and the views, have a quick paddle (or if it’s not too cold, a swim) and then head to back the nearby Stackpole Inn for lunch or a drink.
Time needed at Barafundle Bay
If you’re a beach or water adventures lover you could spend the whole day here, but you’ll need a minimum of 2 hours to walk there, look around for an hour, and walk back to the car park.
Why Barafundle Bay is one of the best places to visit in Pembrokeshire
It’s just enough effort to get there to put off the crowds, making this beach not only beautiful but also generally quiet (except on extremely sunny summer weekends, when you’ll need to arrive early to bag a space in the car park).
5/ Bosherston Lily Ponds
Just a few minutes’ drive away from Barafundle Bay are the Bosherston Lily Ponds. These are man-made lakes built between 1780 and 1860 as part of the sculpted landscape belonging to Stackpole Court stately home.
The house was demolished in 1963 but the lakes are now a haven for wildlife including waterbirds and otters. If you want to make an afternoon of it, there’s a 5-mile walk that takes you in a loop all the way back to Barafundle Bay, or if you prefer to just check out the famous lily ponds, you can do a much quicker 40-minute circuit round the main pond.
Why Bosherston Lily Ponds are one of the best things to do in Pembrokeshire
The huge lakes covered with waterlilies and rich wildlife are really an impressive sight, and the shady paths around the edge make for a calming and peaceful walk.
Where to stay near Barafundle Bay and Bosherston Lily Ponds
I stayed at Portclew House, a smart country house with a garden just a few miles outside Pembroke and with easy access to the coast too.
6/ St Govan’s Chapel and the Green Bridge of Wales
Once you’ve had your fill of nature, it’s time for a bit more history (and some epic views!). St Govan’s Chapel is a small, ruined hermit’s chapel set right into the cliff face. A set of steep steps heads down to the chapel, or you can walk round the cliff edge to appreciate its impressive setting from above.
Note that the road to St Govan’s passes through an MOD army site and is sometimes closed due to military activity, so check before you go. Weekends are usually fine.
Time needed to visit St Govan’s Chapel
If you just want to see the chapel you’ll only need about 15 minutes to take a quick look, or a bit longer for a wander around the cliffs nearby.
But if you’re taking your Pembrokeshire Road Trip at a more leisurely pace, from St Govan’s you can walk the three miles along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path to the Green Bridge of Wales, an impressive natural arch that juts out into the sea. Take in the incredible views of the Elegug Stack Rocks before turning round and heading back to the car (total walking time, about 3 hours).
Why St Govan’s Chapel is one of the best places to visit on a Pembrokeshire road trip
It’s probably one of the smallest religious buildings you’ll ever visit, and definitely has one of the best locations. Try to visit in the morning, when the sun falls on the cliff face.
7/ Skomer Island
I loved my Pembrokeshire road trip, but for me Skomer Island was the absolute highlight. Skomer is a nature reserve located just off the coast of south Pembrokeshire, home to huge numbers of seabirds including guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes and terns, as well as sometimes porpoises and grey seals. But between April and August the main draw is the puffin colonies. About 35,000 puffins come here to breed during the spring and summer, and they’re wonderful and hilarious to watch.
The boat to Skomer leaves from Martin’s Haven every half hour in the morning. It’s very popular so you will need to book well in advance.
Read more: Visiting the Skomer Island Puffins
After you get back from your wildlife spotting adventure on Skomer Island, head to nearby Marloes Sands for a stroll on the beach. If you’re visiting in the summer, why not have an early dinner at the Griffin Inn in the pretty village of Dale, and then drive back to Martin’s Haven to watch the sun set from the west-facing viewpoint.
Time needed on Skomer Island
Return boats are allocated in the order in which you arrived, so everyone gets about 4-5 hours on the island.
Read more: How to See and Photograph Puffins in the UK: 20 FAQs
Why Skomer Island is one of the best things to do in Pembrokeshire
Because of the puffins! There are a few other places you can see puffins in the UK, but Skomer is one of the most accessible, and in some areas on the island the puffins nest right next to the path, meaning you can get really close to them.
Where to stay near Skomer Island
I stayed two nights at FSC Dale Fort Hostel, a 19th century defensive fort that has been converted into a hostel and field studies centre. It’s perched right on the cliff top up a steep hill from the cute village of Dale, and commands incredible views. While it’s not the most luxurious, for a solo traveller like me it was affordable and the location was perfect.
If a hostel’s not for you, a good place to stay is Little Haven which is 25 minutes’ drive from the departure point and has several B&Bs and guesthouses.
8/ Solva
As you drive north around the edge of St Brides Bay you’ll come to Solva, a pretty but busy harbour village with a range of cafes, pubs, galleries and shops. It’s a lovely place to spend a relaxed couple of hours, maybe grabbing a late breakfast, exploring the high street, or enjoying a walk around the harbour.
From the car park in the harbour, several paths lead up to join the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. I crossed the bridge and walked up the hill on the other side, where a stunning woodland trail crammed with pink foxgloves brought me out to a viewpoint with Solva on the right and the sea on the left. If you visit at low tide the water will mostly be gone apart from a small river down the centre, which is a great spot for catching crabs with the kids.
Time needed in Solva
You can take in the views in a couple of hours, but you could easily spend longer here exploring the coastal paths or the shops, or having lunch in one of the cute pubs.
9/ St David’s
St David’s is the UK’s smallest city, home to only about 1600 people. It’s named after St David, the patron saint of Wales, and is said to be where he was laid to rest.
The main attraction is St David’s Cathedral, which is what gives this tiny place its city status. It’s a stunning building, resplendent with ornate ceilings and a magnificent tower – a proper, full-sized cathedral that feels completely out of place in this village-sized community.
The shrine to St David has been a place of pilgrimage since the 12th century and is said to be where the saint’s bones are kept. Entry to the cathedral is free.
Next door to St David’s Cathedral is the Bishop’s Palace, a magnificent medieval residence. It’s now in ruins, but still impressive and atmospheric; you can wander the halls and underground rooms, and there are illustrations and audio guides in each room to help you understand what it was like. Entry costs £4.
Time needed in St David’s
Although it’s a city, St David’s is really very small, and you can easily see everything in an afternoon.
Why St David’s is one of the top things to see in Pembrokeshire
You can’t come all this way and not visit the UK’s smallest city! Plus the cathedral is magnificent and definitely worth a visit, and the city is a good place to base yourself for exploring Pembrokeshire’s north coast.
Where to stay in St David’s
If you book a hotel in St David’s you might get a chance to enjoy the sunset over the cathedral, though when I was there it was a bit too cloudy. I didn’t stay the night, but there are plenty of B&Bs and guesthouses to choose from.
10/ Whitesands Bay and St David’s Head
If you’re up for more fresh air and coastal views, drive the 15 minutes from St David’s to Whitesands Bay. Here you can just chill out on the beach and enjoy an ice cream from the café, or if you’re feeling more energetic, take the path that leads uphill from the car park and around St David’s Head, one of Wales’ most beautiful headlands.
Time needed at St David’s Head
The entire circular walk around St David’s Head takes a bit more than an hour and passes the remains of a Neolithic burial chamber as well as offering spectacular views.
11/ Abereiddy and the Blue Lagoon
Just 15 minutes’ drive from St David’s is the small hamlet of Abereiddy, home to the famous Blue Lagoon. Now a National Trust site, the Blue Lagoon used to be a slate quarry that was mined until 1910, when it closed down. Later, a channel was blasted between the quarry and the sea, allowing seawater to flow in creating a lake 25 metres deep, full of vivid blue-green water caused by the sediment from the slate.
With its steep sides and depth it’s perfect for diving, and the site is now a hub for adventure sports including paddle boarding, coasteering and cliff jumping. The lagoon was even used for the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series in 2012, 2013 and 2016.
Take a walk up and around the top of the crater (keep away from the edge if you suffer from vertigo!) or if you’re feeling more adventurous you could go for a swim or even book a coasteering adventure.
Time needed at the Blue Lagoon
An hour if you just want to look around; 2-3 hours minimum if you want to swim or go coasteering.
Why the Blue Lagoon is one of the best things to do in Pembrokeshire
Even if you’re pushed for time, the views of the Blue Lagoon, with its bright turquoise water and spectacular coastal location, are pretty amazing.
12/ Porthgain
Another 10 minutes’ drive east along the Pembrokeshire coast brings you to Porthgain, a pretty village with a harbour that was originally built to export the slate from nearby quarries. You can still see some of the remains of the town’s industrial past today, along with a village green, a couple of shops and cafes, and two restaurants.
Take a stroll round the village, enjoy a clifftop walk, and then head to The Shed for fish&chips so good it’s famous across the county.
Time needed in Porthgain
A couple of hours for lunch and a wander is probably plenty, unless you want to use this as a base to walk more of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.
Why visiting Porthgain is one of the best things to do in Pembrokeshire
It’s a very pretty village with a charming harbour and a couple of lovely coastal path walks, but the best thing about Porthgain are the fish&chips. It may have been the food – the chips crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, the cod firm and juicy and coated in light and crispy batter – or it may have been the fact that I ate it dangling my legs over the harbour wall and looking out to sea, but it could not have been more perfect.
13/ Strumble Head
From Porthgain it’s approximately a 30 minute’s drive to Strumble Head, yet another windswept and scenic viewpoint, this one topped by a lonely lighthouse. The lighthouse itself is not open to the public, but it makes for great views, and there’s a wildlife-spotting hide that’s great for watching out for passing seabirds and, if you’re lucky, porpoises.
Time needed at Strumble Head
Allow half an hour just to park up and take in the views, but you could stay for several hours if you wanted to walk some of the coast path or spend some time wildlife-spotting.
Why visiting Strumble Head is one of the best things to do in Pembrokeshire
Strumble Head feels really remote and lonely. It’s the sort of place where you can really inhale the sea air deep into your lungs and leave the weight of your daily life behind you for a few moments.
14/ Fishguard
Next stop along the coast is Fishguard, another quaint Welsh coastal town – at least, in part. The town is made up of two adjoining areas: Fishguard and Goodwick, each with its own harbour.
The main harbour, in Goodwick, is the terminal for the ferries that go to Rosslare in Ireland; this side of the town feels more industrial. The other half, Fishguard proper, has a small high street with shops and colourfully-painted buildings, and a very picturesque Lower Town harbour where I spent a very happy couple of hours photographing the sunset.
Time needed in Fishguard
Just an hour or two if you’re stopping for a quick lunch and a wander; longer if you want to stay late and watch the sunset.
Why Fishguard is one of the best places to visit in Pembrokeshire
If the weather is right, the sunsets here are second to none. Go cold-water swimming off the ramp at the far end of the harbour, or head to the ruins of Fishguard fort to take in your sunset with a side order of history.
Where to stay in Fishguard
I stayed at The Ferryboat in nearby Goodwick, just a few minutes’ drive from the pretty part of the town. This wasn’t actually planned, I thought I was booking in Fishguard proper, but although the location wasn’t quite what I was expecting it didn’t matter because I had a car. The guest house itself was brand new and really nicely designed, and the hosts were super friendly and helpful.
15/ Dinas Island
The final stop on your Pembrokeshire Road Trip is one last coastal walk at Dinas Island, which is not actually an island but a peninsula with more windswept views and landscapes awash with more wildflowers than you can eat (except don’t, some of them may not be edible).
There’s a National Trust car park (you’ll need coins!) at Pwllgwaelod Beach leading to a three-mile circular walk that takes you around the headland. One last chance to get that sea air into your lungs and stretch your legs before heading back to reality.
Pwllgwaelod Beach also has a pub where you can have a well-deserved pint or meal after your walk.
Time needed at Dinas Island
If you don’t stop for too many photos you can complete the Dinas Island circuit in about two hours.
Visiting Pembrokeshire: Practicalities
Driving in Pembrokeshire
If you’re used to nice wide motorways and clearly-signposted city routes, driving in Pembrokeshire might come as a bit of a shock. Many of the roads are quite windy and single-track only, with occasional wider places to allow two cars to pass. Sometimes there are also cyclists and walkers along the side of the road.
It’s really important to be considerate to other road users, and take it slowly as you could come across a car coming the other way at any time.
That said, I loved my Pembrokeshire road trip because narrow lanes are incredibly pretty, especially in the summer when the verges are bursting with wildflowers.
Parking in Pembrokeshire
There are plenty of car parks, most of which require you to Pay and Display. Some are quite small, so if it’s a weekend and a sunny day, get to your destination early or you may not get in (this happened to me at Barafundle Bay).
Parking usually costs about £1 an hour for the first £1-3 hours, and £5-6 for a whole day, though prices do vary slightly.
It’s also really important to note that many of the machines are cash or Pay By Phone only (no cards). I fell foul of this several times when I didn’t have small change and there was no phone signal! So make sure you have some coins with you at all times, and it’s a good idea to download and register on the Pay By Phone app before you travel.
And that’s it! Loads of amazing places to visit in Pembrokeshire on a road trip. I hope you liked this post; if you have other suggestions for great things to see and do in Pembrokeshire I’d love to read about them in the comments!
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I paid in full for my trip. All opinions are my own and all prices correct at the time of writing.
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Bella is a multi-award-winning travel writer, wildlife photographer and science and history documentary director from London. Among many awards and nominations she won Blogger of the Year at the British Guild of Travel Writers’ Awards 2023 and Best Photography at the Travel Media Awards 2020. Her work has been published by National Geographic, Wanderlust, and BBC Travel among others. Her films have been shown around the world including on the BBC, Discovery and PBS.
