Inspired by my own 4-day Turkey Road Trip, this post outlines a suggested itinerary for a week-long self-drive route up the North Aegean Coast from Izmir to Istanbul.
I also discuss the practicalities of hiring a car and driving in Turkey – and there’s a serious warning at the bottom so don’t miss that! If youโre thinking about renting a car in Turkey and looking for advice about places to visit on your road trip, then read on…
Iโm very lucky that in my job as a documentary producer/director I get to visit some incredible places. And one of the wonderful countries Iโve had the pleasure of filming in recently is Turkey.
I and a colleague spent 10 days filming two archaeology programmes for Discovery Science Channel, one at Gordion, near Ankara, and the second at Hierapolis/Pamukkale, which is not too far from Izmir in the west of Turkey.
We worked two weeks straight without a break and at the end of the shoot we were given three days off, so we rented a car and took a short road trip from Izmir up the Aegean Coast and back to Istanbul for our flight home.
Planning our Turkey trip
When I tried to plan this mini adventure, I couldnโt find much advice online about where to visit and stay during a Turkey Aegean Coast road trip.
Fortunately, I had our amazing local fixer on call, and she helped us map out a fantastic itinerary that took in all the best places on Turkeyโs stunning North Aegean coastline. So now Iโm paying it forward and sharing that advice with you.
We only had four days which really wasnโt long enough to properly enjoy all the places we visited.
So the itinerary below is not exactly what we did, but itโs what I would do now if I could take the trip again with a bit more time. Hopefully youโll find it helpful when it comes to planning your own Turkey road trip along the Aegean coast.
If you’re going the other way, you can of course follow this itinerary backwards and make it an Istanbul to Izmir road trip instead!
Day One: Fly to Izmir, drive to Hierapolis / Pamukkale
We began our adventures at the stunning archaeological site of Hierapolis/Pamukkale, where we spent five days filming. Iโll write a separate post about that soon, so do subscribe by email if you donโt want to miss it!
Hierapolis is an ancient Greco-Roman city, once famous for its mineral hot springs and an eerie temple where priests performed animal sacrifices to Pluto, the god of the underworld.
The same mineral springs that fuelled the Roman spa industry here also formed spectacular travertine limestone terraces (the Pamukkale) that gleam in the Turkish sun. Itโs one of Turkeyโs most iconic landmarks, and despite sometimes getting quite crowded, is definitely worth a visit.
If you’d like to find out more about my TV work, why not check out my Unhelpful Guides
Iโm going to go ahead and assume you wonโt magically be starting your journey in Hierapolis at the end of a filming trip as we did. So youโre going to need to get there.
The quickest way is to fly to Izmir, pick up your rental car, and drive the three hours to Hierapolis.
If you donโt want to go to Hierapolis and are only interested in the coastal part of this itinerary, then your best bet is to fly to Izmir and pick up the route from Day 3.
Where to stay in Pamukkale
We stayed in the Adempira Spa Hotel, a 5* hotel with a spa and an absolutely fabulous outdoor pool which I sadly did not have nearly as much time to take advantage of as I would have liked.
The rooms were stylish and clean and the prices reasonable compared with other similar hotels in the area.
My only complaint was that the food in the hotel restaurant wasnโt actually that good, so I recommend you head into Pamukkale village for your meals instead. Click here to check reviews and book.
As an alternative, you could also try the Pamukkale Whiteheaven Suite Hotel which is right by the ruins and gets rave reviews. Its Booking.com rating is an impressive 9.1! Click here to see reviews and book.
Where to eat in Pamukkale
Most of the restaurants in Pamukkale village serve the same identikit tourist fare of steak and chips, kofte or kebabs. Itโs perfectly edible but hardly fine dining, so you may want to drive the 30 minutes to Denizli for a more varied range of options.
However, we did manage to find what is probably the one decent restaurant in Pamukkale Village, a Chinese place called Asian Kitchen Landscape Restaurant, where the portions were huge, the food all freshly-cooked and absolutely delicious, and staff were friendly and spoke perfect English.
We liked it so much we ate there three nights in a row!
Day Two: Hierapolis/Pamukkale
Today is your chance to explore Hierapolis/Pamukkale. The site is divided into two areas: the Pamukkale, which are the white travertine terraces youโll see in all the photographs, and Hierapolis, the Roman city.
Itโs a unique and wonderful place, though the travertine areas can get quite busy with tour groups. But almost no one visits Hierapolis, so if you want to avoid the tourists, donโt linger too long at the Pamukkale and instead head straight for the city.
The main things to see are the amphitheatre (one of the best-preserved in the Roman world), the many hundreds of tombs in the necropolis, the main street with its arched gateway, the Sanctuary of Apollo, and the Plutonium, a shrine to Pluto where priests made animal sacrifices (though this was closed to the public when we visited – we had special access for filming).
Itโs also worth making the trek up to the top of the hill to see the tomb and Martyrium of Philip the Apostle with amazing views over the site.
Itโs a huge site and walking around it in the hot sun can be a challenge. There are buses and golf buggies available to rent, but if you plan to walk make sure you take a hat, suncream and plenty of water!
Read more: The Best Ancient Ruins in Turkey
Day Three: Lake Bafa and ลirince
Lake Bafa
On day three of your Turkey Road Trip, hop back in the car and drive the three hours back to the coast to Lake Bafa in time for lunch. Lake Bafa used to be a gulf of the Aegean Sea until the entrance silted up; itโs now a nature reserve and bird sanctuary where you can go walking or take boat trips.
We stopped for lunch at Selenes Pension, a cute guesthouse with rooms (which would also be a lovely place to stay), a pool and a terrace restaurant overlooking the lake. We ate delicious fresh fish with chips and a selection of Turkish mezze and salads.
If you can spare the time, in the afternoon you could take a boat trip on Lake Bafa (the staff at Selenes can organise this for you), or if the weather is not too hot, you can do a three-hour hike to see rock tombs and prehistoric cave paintings.
We didnโt have time, so instead we decided to put on our bathing suits and swim out to the tiny island thatโs less than 100 m offshore. Itโs home to Herakleia, a ruined Byzantine fortress, and about 10 goats who were quite friendly but alarmingly curious.
The water was warm, pretty shallow, and full of slimy seaweed which was a bit gross, but it was totally worth it for a mini adventure exploring the ruins in the sunshine. We had the place completely to ourselves, though sadly because we swam there I donโt have any photos.
From Lake Bafa itโs about another 1.5 hours to drive to ลirince (pronounced Sheer-IN-jay), where youโll stay the night.
ลirince
ลirince is a gorgeous little former Greek hilltop village about 15 minutes from the town of Selรงuk, which is home to the famous archaeological site of Ephesus.
The village itself is full of cute cobbled streets, bars and cafes, as well as shops selling ice cream and locally-produced fruit wine and olive oil. Have a stroll and then find a place to watch the sunset with a glass of wine or a cold beer after your long day.
Where to stay in ลirince
We stayed in the Terrace Houses, a group of three charming houses that have been beautifully restored by British-Turkish couple Charlotte and รmer Samli. Each house is atmospheric and unique, packed full of vintage design and historic objects that really make you feel like youโve stepped back in time.
The houses are tucked away at the top of the hillside, from where you can enjoy breakfast or drinks on the terrace overlooking the picturesque view before strolling down to explore the village itself.
Another great option in ลirince is Nisanyan Hotel, a beautiful hotel with a choice of rooms, a guesthouse and separate cottages, all set in a beautifully restored traditional farm. The food and location are so great it has a rave 9.2 rating on Booking.com. Click here to see reviews and book.
Where to eat in ลirince
At Charlotte and รmerโs recommendation we ate at the nearby Sedir Restaurant, where we enjoyed a selection of delicious vegetarian mezze followed by the house speciality, Manti, which is a traditional Turkish dish a bit like ravioli or tiny dumplings stuffed with lamb or beef mince and covered with a yoghurty sauce.
Day Four: Ephesus
Day four of your Turkey Road Trip is your chance to visit one of the jewels in Turkeyโs crown: the ancient city of Ephesus, which is just 15 minutesโ drive from ลirince.
Ephesus was once the capital of Roman Asia Minor. Itโs one of the largest archaeological sites in Turkey and was home of the Temple of Artemis, one of the fabled seven wonders of the ancient world. Itโs a huge site and you can easily spend a full day there, but itโs best to get there early or stay late to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds.
Where to stay near Ephesus
At the end of a hot day exploring the ruins, you could return to ลirince for another night in this charming village, or you could head to the nearby town of Selรงuk where there are some gorgeous boutique options.
Akanthus Hotel Ephesus is a beautifully restored boutique hotel just a short walk from the Ephesus Museum and the Basilica of St. John.ย The rooms are stylish yet cosy, with thoughtful touches like locally woven textiles and handmade ceramics.ย The courtyard pool is a serene spot to unwind after exploring the ancient ruins. Booking.com rating:ย 9.8โ. Click here to read reviews and book.
Hotel Kalehan is a charming, family-run place with a garden and a pool, perfect for cooling off after exploring Ephesus.ย The rooms have a rustic feel with traditional Turkish decor, and it has a great town centre location. Booking.com rating:ย 9.3. Click here to read reviews and book.
Day Five: Ayvalรญk and Cunda with a stop at Pergamon (Bergama)
Enjoy breakfast on the terrace or wander into town to buy souvenirs and olive oil, and then get back in the car for Day Five of your road trip.
Itโll take you three hours to drive north up the coast to Cunda (pronounced CHOON-dar), a charming island just across the water from the town of Ayvalรญk and connected to the mainland by a road bridge.
Pergamon
If youโre keen on archaeological sites and happy to leave early, along the way you could stop at Pergamon, which is about an hour south of Ayvalรญk (pronounced EYE-vall-ook).
Pergamon (also known as Bergama) was the capital of the Kingdom of Pergamon during 3rd and 2nd centuries BC. It was home to of the largest libraries of the world and the city became a healing and arts centre.
Key sights to see here now include the acropolis which contains the huge marble-columnedย Temple of Trajan, the impressively steep Hellenistic theatre, and the Temple of Dionysus.
Once you arrive in Cunda, check into your hotel and then head out to explore this cute island town.
Cunda
Cunda Island, also calledย Alibey Island, used to be a Greek colony and is now a quiet and charming seaside resort with a harbour, pretty old town full of narrow streets filled with colourful historic stone houses, and a small town centre with cafes and shops.
Itโs a lovely place to stroll around taking photos before stopping for an ice cream or a cold drink. Donโt miss Evliyazade olive oil shop near the main square for some of the freshest, grassiest and cheapest olive oil youโll ever buy. ย
The island has several beaches – most are small and stony but still worth a visit because the views are beautiful and the water is some of the clearest you’ll find anywhere in the world.
Many of the beaches are private or belong to the nearby hotels, so it’s a good idea to book in advance if you want to guarantee access and a sun lounger without having to travel too far. You can also take boat trips around the bay or watch the sunset from the nearby hilltop of ลeytan Sofrasฤฑ (Devil’s Feast).
Where to stay in Cunda
We stayed at Cunda Fora Hotel, which is situated in the old town about a ten-minute stroll from the waterfront.
The hotel has large, smartly-decorated rooms and a restaurant terrace where you can enjoy a breakfast of eggs, with Turkish cheese, olives and bread overlooking a sea view.
If beaches are your thing then another great option would be to stay at the gorgeous Cunda Lena Otel which has a superb 9.7 rating on Booking.com and has its own private beach area – so you won’t need to book or travel at all.
Where to eat in Cunda
In the evening we headed down to the harbour for dinner at Teoโs Restaurant, which is located right on the waterfront with tables on a wooden jetty over the water.
We sat looking out to sea with the lights of the town reflecting off the glimmering surface, eating freshly-caught fish and a huge selection of Turkish mezze, and it was so perfect that we ended up staying till 2 am when the staff closed the restaurant around us!
Day Six: The Aegean Coast and Assos
On Day Six of your Turkey Road Trip it’s time to enjoy a leisurely breakfast at your hotel, maybe go for another stroll around Cunda, and then get back in the car and drive about two hours northwest up the coast to Assos.
After about an hour, take the left hand turn off the main road at Kรผรงรผkkuyu and follow the coast road the rest of the way as it winds up and down past tiny beaches and bays that sparkle in the sunshine.
Lunch at Kozluyali Beach
Stop for lunch at Kozluyali Glamping, a cute resort featuring posh fixed tents with their own private bathrooms, a shady garden dotted with hammocks and sunbeds, an outdoor restaurant where we ate excellent burgers, and a small stony beach with sun loungers and the clearest water Iโve ever had the pleasure of swimming in.
Spend the afternoon here relaxing, swimming, and enjoying a few cold drinks, and then you can either stay the night here or get back in the car and drive the 15 minutes further to Assos.
Assos
Assos is another small but historic hilltop town with narrow winding streets filled with picturesque stone houses and glorious views out over the plains below.
The town of Assos sits on an acropolis above the fishing village of Behramkale which is about a 20 minute walk downhill.
At the very top of the hill is the ancient archaeological site of Assos which features a ruined Temple of Athena and stunning views over the bay.
Itโs a great place to watch the sunset before heading back down to the town for dinner and drinks on the last night of your Turkey Road Trip.
If you have a bit more time you could drive an hour north of Assos and check out the ruins of Troy, the real city that the epic story of the Trojan War is based on. It’s well worth popping in for an hour if you’re passing by.
Where to stay in Assos
We stayed at Assos Sunset Hotel, a charming boutique hotel in Assos old town just a ten minute walk downhill from the temple.
The hotel features clean rooms around a pretty courtyard filled with colourful corners to sit in and plenty of friendly cats!
If you prefer to be closer to the seafront, another highly recommended option is Assos Terrace Hotel, which has beautiful rooms and amazing views over the Aegean Sea.
Where to eat in Assos
We had dinner at Mavi Kapi Kafรฉ, also in Assos old town just a short walk from the hotel. This tiny restaurant serves just a few local Turkish dishes including various mezze and meat and fish of the day in an outdoor courtyard tucked away off the main street.
Day Seven: Back to Istanbul
For us, the last day of our Turkey Road Trip involved driving the six hours all the way back to Istanbul in time for a late afternoon flight.
If you have more time, you could break up the journey at one of the towns halfway along the route, or spend a couple of nights in Istanbul and explore the city for a day or two before heading home.
Or, of course, if you’re doing a road trip from Istanbul to Izmir, this is just the start of the adventure!
Where to stay in Istanbul
There’s no shortage of incredible hotels in Istanbul, but here are a few well-located suggestions if you need a steer.
Top Pick: The Peninsula Istanbul
The Peninsula Istanbul is a head-turner, blending three historic maritime buildings with a sleek new structure.ย Perched where the Golden Horn meets the Bosphorus, it offers stunning views of Topkapi Palace and Hagia Sophia.ย
The rooftop restaurant, Gallada, serves dishes like wood-fired monkfish and lamb shashlik kebab, while the spa, inspired by Turkish hammams, provides a lavish retreat.โ Booking.com rating:ย 9.6. Click here to read reviews and book.
Midrange: Hotel Ibrahim Pasha
Hotel Ibrahim Pasha is a charming spot just a two-minute walk from the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts.ย The rooftop terrace offers views of the Blue Mosque, and the rooms combine traditional Turkish decor with modern comforts.It’s a cosy base for exploring the historic heart of the city.โ
Booking.com rating:ย 9.3. Click here to read reviews and book.
Budget: Meretto Hotel LALELฤฐ โ Fatih
Meretto Hotel LALELฤฐ is a great find in the Fatih district, offering clean and comfortable rooms at a reasonable price.ย It’s well-situated for exploring the Grand Bazaar and other historic sites.ย The staff are friendly and helpful, making it a solid choice if you’re on a budget.
Booking.com rating:ย 9.5. Click here to read reviews and book.
Things to do in Istanbul
Istanbul is a vibrant, buzzing city with absolutely masses to see and do.
From legendary Istanbul landmarks like Hagia Sofia or the Blue Mosque, to bars and clubs, to eating at some of Istanbul’s amazing restaurants, to watching the sunset over the Bosphorus, to browsing the many bazaars and boutiques, you definitely won’t struggle to find things to do in Istanbul.
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The Best Road Trip in Turkey: Practicalities
Car rental in Turkey
It’s very easy to rent a car in Turkey.
Just go to your normal favourite car rental comparison site, put in your dates and the type of car you want, add any extras, and job done.
We booked a Renault Clio through Avis for four days in August and it cost ยฃ340.
Is it safe to drive in Turkey?
Yes! Driving in Turkey is safe and easy. The roads are good and pretty well signposted, though I would always recommend buying a local SIM and using Google Maps to navigate.
There are plenty of petrol stations and roadside restaurants, the vast majority of which have toilets far cleaner than anything you get in the UK.
You do get traffic jams around the major cities, but apart from when we passed Izmir we had very little trouble with traffic or crazy drivers, and the whole experience was very easy. Apart from one thing…
A warning about driving in Turkey!
On the second day of our trip, as we were driving from ลirince to Cunda at about 80 mph on the motorway, a tyre warning light suddenly came on, and moments later, our back right tyre exploded, tearing a hole in the bumper.
My colleague, who was driving, managed to bring the car to a stop safely and fortunately no one was hurt. It turns out the tyre had ‘delaminated’, which means the tread separated from the inner part of the tyre. This can happen when you have a tyre in poor condition being driven on hot roads.
Fortunately, we were able to get help at a nearby Shell petrol station, where we put the spare tyre on and then drove carefully back to Izmir to swap the car before continuing our journey.
It was all relatively painless, until I got home and found that Avis had charged another ยฃ360 to my credit card for the privilege of a high-speed tyre blowout that could have caused a fatal accident, and four hours out of our day sorting it out. At the time of writing, I’m still trying to get an explanation and my money back. I will certainly never be renting a car with Avis again.
So be warned. Check your tyres carefully when picking up the car, and if you have any concerns, don’t ignore them!
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My favourite travel tools and brands
To help you organise your trip, here’s a short list of some of the brands and tools I use over and over again when I’m planning my travels. You can see more on my Travel Resources page.
- Booking.com: A huge range of hotels to choose from, often with free cancellation. If you book hotels regularly you can earn discounts. I’m on Genius Level 3 which gets me 20% off!
- Expedia: Another great place to find hotels and Expedia also sell flights, car hire, and loads more all in one place.
- Skyscanner: The only place I ever go to search for flights and compare prices.
- Flight Centre: Booking a more complicated route? Let Flight Centre organise it for you (and deal with the drama when something goes wrong).
- Priority Pass: I love having access to 1600+ airport lounges when I fly, allowing me to enjoy my time at the airport. Buy through my link and you get up to 20% off!
- Airalo: Say goodbye to ridiculous mobile roaming charges. Did you know you can now buy ane-SIM, install it in your phone before you leave home, and then use data abroad at local prices? Game changer. Get US$3 credit with code BELLA5735.
- TourRadar: If you prefer group travel and organised tours, TourRadar has a huge range of fantastic tours from respected operators. They’re very helpful and have 4.5 stars on TrustPilot.
- Viator: Part of the TripAdvisor brand, Viator is another great place to search for group adventures and day trips.
- GetYourGuide: A great place to find local tours and day trips in your destination.
- Wex Photo Video: The UK’s best camera gear store.
- Ellis Brigham: Looking for good quality backpacks, travel clothes and other gear? Ellis Brigham is where I buy almost all of mine.
- Rentalcars.com: Part of the Booking.com family and the worldโs largest online car rental service, with 24/7 customer service.
- World Nomads Travel Insurance: I never ever travel without travel insurance and nor should you!
Where to next?
If you’d like to find out more about my filming adventures, here are few posts you might enjoy:
- An Unhelpful Guide toโฆ Herculaneum
- An Unhelpful Guide toโฆ New York & The Rockaways
- Gordion in Turkey: City of King Midas and the Golden Touch
- Hunting for the Legendary Ruins of Troy, And How to Visit
Or why not try a couple of other recent posts?
- Palma De Mallorca: The Surprisingly Perfect City Break Destination
- Visiting the Skomer Island Puffins in Wales
- Rio Dulce Guatemala: Is The โSweet Riverโ Worth It?
- A Neilson Activity Holidays Review โ Messini Beach Club in Greece
- Cyprus in Spring: 10 Reasons Why Itโs The Best Time To Visit
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