The Expert Guide To Xela Guatemala: Things To See And Do

Most visitors to Guatemala don’t bother to visit Xela. It’s a little out of the way, and without the colonial charms of Antigua, the lake views of Atitlán, or the majestic Maya temples of Flores, many travellers, especially those on a tight schedule, opt to give it a miss.

But if you do have a bit more time, it’s worth adding Xela – also known as Quetzaltenango – to your Guatemala itinerary.

I spent two months living, volunteering and studying Spanish in Xela, and I got to know the city pretty well. So here are my recommendations for all the top things to do and see during your visit to Xela Guatemala.

Introducing Xela in Guatemala

Xela is Guatemala’s second largest city, situated in the Western Highlands, about 4 hours’ drive from Guatemala City.

Quetzaltenango is the city’s official name – that’s what you will see on all the maps and signs – but it’s known everywhere by its Maya name, Xela (pronounced ‘Shella’ or ‘Shayla’). Which as well as being easier to spell, is also much more pronounceable!

Xela sits at an altitude of around 2,300 metres (7,546 feet), so if you find yourself getting a little out of puff as you walk up some of the steeper streets, then blame the Quetzaltenango elevation! Or at least that’s what I keep telling myself, even after two months here…

Quetzaltenango and its people

The population of Xela is about 95% indigenous Maya or mixed-race, giving the city a culturally vibrant and traditional atmosphere. Everywhere you go, you’ll see Maya people in their colourful dress, and the whole city feels much more conservative than other parts of the country.

Like Antigua, Xela has a colonial-style historic city centre with some interesting architecture and several good bars and restaurants, and surrounding that, a huge, rather gritty urban sprawl that goes on for miles.

It’s a chilled-out city, without any hint of touristy gloss, but this is the real Guatemala: friendly, colourful, traditional, hardworking, and fully in touch with its historic and indigenous roots.

Top reasons to visit Quetzaltenango Guatemala

I’m not saying you should skip Antigua or Lake Atitlán in favour of coming to Xela – there are many good reasons why Guatemala’s big hitters are popular, and if you only have a short amount of time in the country, you should prioritise those.

But if you can spare a few extra days, it’s worth making the effort to visit Xela too. Here are some reasons why:

Xela is fantastic for hiking

One of the main reasons people come to Xela is for the hiking. The city is situated in Guatemala’s dramatic highlands with several volcanoes and other fantastic outdoors opportunities right on the doorstep. If you like strapping on a backpack and striding out into the landscape, Xela is definitely the place for you.

Xela is one of the best places in the world to learn Spanish

Thanks to its majority indigenous population, many of whom speak Maya dialects as a first language, the Spanish spoken here is much slower, simpler, and easier to understand than in other places.

On top of that, Xela is one of the cheapest cities in Central America to live and study, which is why a Spanish teaching industry has grown up here. There are several schools to choose from, as well as a huge choice of private tutors, and plenty of homestays, hostels, bars and cafes to cater to students from all over the world.

Xela is the heart of the Maya culture

The Maya culture was one of my favourite things about Xela and the Guatemalan highlands. I loved the colourful clothes the people wear, the vibrant woven textiles on sale in the markets, the interesting street food, and the respectful and friendly demeanour of the people.

Xela is off the beaten track

While touristy places have their benefits (good amenities, nice hostels, lots of fellow travellers to hang out with), sometimes it’s nice to get away from other ‘gringos’ and head to towns where you can get a more authentic travel experience. If, like me, you’re a bit of a contrarian and like going where other people don’t, then add Xela to your Guatemala itinerary!

A brief history of Xela Guatemala

Before the Spanish conquest, the area around modern-day Quetzaltenango was the homeland of the Mam Maya people, before being taken over by the powerful K’iche’ Maya in the 14th century. They named it Xelajú Noj – which is translated as ‘under ten mountains’ or ‘under ten gods’, possibly a reference to Xela’s many volcanos.

On 12th February 1524, Spanish conquistador Pedro de Alvarado and his indigenous allies arrived in the Quetzaltenango valley and defeated the K’iche Maya at a famous battle very close to the city. According to legend, the K’iche’ had a leader named Tecan Uman, who was killed in the battle, and in 1960 he was named Guatemala’s official national hero.

After the conquest the Spanish renamed the city Quetzaltenango, which means ‘place of the quetzal bird’, but most people still call it by its indigenous name, Xela. 

Today the city’s culture is still firmly anchored in its Maya roots, with a population made up mainly of K’iche’ Maya people. This gives the city, with its buzzing markets and colourfully-dressed locals, a vibrant indigenous atmosphere with Spanish colonial undertones. 

Many residents still proudly consider Xela to be the unofficial capital of the Maya, as the K’iche’ were one of the most powerful Maya groups, and their original capital, Qʼumarkaj, was burned to the ground by the Spanish (it’s now an archaeological site still used for traditional Maya ceremonies).

Read more: How To See The Resplendent Quetzal Bird In Guatemala

How to get to Xela Guatemala

Getting to Xela from Guatemala City

Most visitors coming to Xela will either be coming directly from Guatemala City, from Antigua or from Panajachel on Lake Atitlan.

If you’re coming from the city, the best way to get to Xela is by public coach (known as a Pullman). The two main companies running services between Guatemala City and Xela are Alamo and Xelabus.

Alamo’s buses are a bit old and clapped out, but perfectly serviceable for the 4-5 hour journey. A one-way ticket costs Q90 (about £9) and there are frequent buses throughout the day. You can book tickets online, or just show up half an hour before departure to buy in person.

Xelabus is a bit more expensive and a bit less frequent, but their buses are newer and nicer.

There is no central intercity coach station in Xela, nor in Guatemala City; you need to go to the depot of the specific company you want to travel with. The easiest and safest way to do this is by Uber.

You can find more information about intercity buses to Xela here.

Read more: Is Guatemala Safe? 60+ Practical Tips For Safe Travel In Guatemala

Getting to Xela from Lake Atitlan or Antigua

If you’re coming from Lake Atitlan or Antigua, you can travel either by tourist shuttle or by public ‘chicken’ bus.

The chicken buses are old US school buses that have been pimped out and repurposed into public buses, complete with flashing lights and colourful paintwork. Riding them is certainly an experience, not least because the drivers drive like lunatics! Services are frequent but they only cover short local distances, so there are very few direct buses between Xela and either Lake Atitlan or Antigua.

Instead, you will probably need to change buses between one and three times to reach Xela. From Antigua there’s a change at Chimaltenango, and from Panajachel you need to change at least twice, at Sololá and Los Encuentros, possibly more depending on which bus you get.  

Far easier, but also more expensive, is to get a tourist shuttle. There are usually one or two of these a day, and any tour operator or hostel can help you set this up. These services are usually door-to-door, you travel in comfortable minibuses with other tourists, and they cost about Q150 (£15) from Panajachel and Q175 (£17.50) from Antigua.

Monte Verde Tours offers both services – I used them a couple of times and found them to be well priced and reliable and the manager, Josh, is helpful and responsive on WhatsApp.

Getting around in Xela

If you stay in Xela city centre you can easily get around on foot. All the decent hotels, hostels, bars and restaurants are within a few blocks of one another, so for most people, getting around won’t be an issue.

For anything further afield the two best ways to get around in Xela are the public ‘micro’ buses, or Uber.

I used Uber quite a lot during my time in Xela because it is so cheap compared with what I’m used to back home. Most of the journeys I took, to the big supermarket, the bus terminal, or getting back from a restaurant or bar after dark, cost less than Q20 (£2 or $2.60).

Micros cost a lot less, usually only about Q2 (20p) but there are no published routes or signs, so the only way to find out where to pick one up or where each bus is going is to ask people, which can be time consuming and confusing.

Things to do in Xela Guatemala

So you’ve made it to Xela – congratulations! And now I’m sure you want to make the most of your time here, so I’ve pulled together this handy list of all the best things there are to do in Quetzaltenango.

I did most of these during my two months in the city – if you’re only staying a few days you certainly won’t have time to do them all, so have a read and pick whatever takes your fancy.

Hiking around Quetzaltenango Guatemala

As you’ve probably noticed by now, hiking is one of the main things to do in Xela.

Some of the shorter hikes on this list you can do without a guide, but if you’re travelling solo you should never hike alone for safety reasons, and for the bigger volcano hikes it’s always best to go with a tour or guide to avoid getting lost.

Volcán Santa Maria

One of Xela’s most challenging volcano hikes, it takes about four hours of very steep climbing to reach the summit of Volcán Santa Maria at 3772 m (12375 ft). It’s worth it though, for the stunning views of Guatemala’s ‘volcano alley’ and the smoking crater of Santiaguito, one of Guatemala’s most active volcanos, right next door.

Read more: A Sunrise Hike Up Volcan Santa Maria In Xela, Guatemala

Volcán Tajumulco

For the bragging rights the one to climb is Tajumulco – the highest peak in Central America at 4220 meters high. Although it’s taller than Santa Maria, the hike itself is about the same level of difficulty because you start the climb higher up.

Here’s it’s not so much the steepness that will challenge you (though it is still steep!), but the altitude, so it’s a good idea to acclimatise for a few days in the city before attempting it. Tajumulco can be done as a fairly long day hike, or as an overnight hike with camping at the top so you can watch the sunrise.

Sadly I wasn’t able to do this one due to reports of gang warfare in the area, but hopefully that will have settled down again by the time you’re here.

Santiaguito Mirador (viewpoint) hike

If you don’t have the energy to climb all the way up to the top of Volcán Santa Maria, another great way to witness the spectacle of the erupting Volcan Santiaguito is to hike to the viewpoint that overlooks the crater.

This is a fairly easy uphill hike taking about 2-3 hours that starts from the small town of Llano de Pinal (where the Santa Maria hike also starts from) about 20 minutes’ drive from the centre of Xela. A couple of tour companies in Xela also offer this as a slightly longer tour starting around 6 am and returning to Xela at midday.

Almolonga / Cerro Quemado / La Muela

When Volcán Almolonga last erupted, it blew the top off the volcano, leaving a rippling summit with several points that make it look a little like a tooth. Hence the alternative names: Cerro Quemado (Burned Mountain) or La Muela (The Molar).

So you have a choice of hikes – either a challenging 3-4 hour climb to the highest point at 3,197 metres (10,489 ft), or a shorter scrambles of about 45 minutes to 1 hour up to either La Muela or Cerro Quemado.

The latter is an area lower down the mountain considered sacred amongst Maya people. Here, most mornings you can see local people hiking up to make offerings and worship, making for a fascinating and moving experience and is one of the more culturally interesting things to do in Quetzaltenango.

To hike to the top of Almolonga you’ll need a guide, but La Muela and Cerro Quemado are easily accessible by taking an Uber from Central Park to Canton Chicua and then following the streams of people. Go on a Sunday morning for the full experience.

Read more: Cerro Quemado in Guatemala: The Volcano Where People Talk To The Gods

Laguna Chicabal

Another popular day hike from Xela is the trip to Laguna Chicabal. Chicabal is a volcanic crater lake that’s considered extremely sacred to the local Maya people.

You can reach the start of the trail by Uber (about Q100) or microbus (Q10) in about an hour; from there it’s a steep 30-minute walk to the park entrance where you pay a Q50 entrance fee.

Another 45 minutes uphill brings you to a viewpoint over the lake, and then it’s a short walk down some very steep steps to the lake itself, where you will see the floral tributes left by Maya worshippers and, if you’re lucky, some Maya ceremonies taking place.

Three-day trek to Lake Atitlán

For serious outdoors enthusiasts this is the pinnacle of the Xela hiking opportunities: a three-day hike through the dramatic volcanic scenery from Quetzaltenango to San Pedro on Lake Atitlan. Along the way you’ll explore remote villages and spend the night in traditional homestays, before finally being greeted by stunning views of the lake and its three volcanos, Toliman, Atitlán and San Pedro.

Cerro El Baúl

This is one of the easiest and most rewarding short hikes around Xela. It takes just 45 minutes to hike up the very clear path to the top of Cerro El Baul, a large, forested hill just to the east of the Parque Central. At the top is a viewpoint with fabulous views of the city, as well as a small play park for kids, a somewhat random and very large slide (which adults can enjoy too) and a statue to Maya hero Tecun Uman. You don’t need a guide for this – just follow google maps – but there have been reports of robberies so it’s best not to go alone.

Things to see in Quetzaltenango Guatemala

If hiking is not your thing and you prefer more cultural activities, there are still plenty of interesting things to see in Xela to fill a couple of days.

Parque Central de Xela

The Parque Central is the hub of Xela life; a leafy green space containing shady seating areas and fountain, and surrounded by grand Neoclassical buildings as well as a few bars, cafes and banks. In the middle of the park stands an imposing round colonnaded structure dedicated to the composer Rafael Álvarez Ovalle, and a pillar dedicated to 19th-century president Justo Rufino Barrios.

There’s always something to see in Parque Central, from kids feeding the pigeons, to locals in traditional Maya dress just chilling out, or, if you get lucky, some sort of procession or celebration. It’s a great place to people watch and definitely not to be missed.

Around the sides of the Parque Central are a few interesting buildings to note…

Church of the Holy Spirit / Metropolitan Cathedral of Quetzaltenango

Xela’s magnificent Catholic cathedral sits on the southeast corner of the Central Park and was founded by the Spanish conquistadores shortly after the defeat of Tecun Uman. The beautiful ornate façade that overlooks the square was built in 1532 and is all that remains of the original building which was destroyed by earthquakes in 1853 and 1902.

Behind it the modern working cathedral was built in the 1990s. If you visit during important Catholic holy days such as Easter Week or Corpus Christi (mid-June) you may be lucky enough to see colourful celebrations and processions, complete with Guatemala’s famous alfombras (sawdust carpets).

Quetzaltenango Municipal Palace

Next door to the cathedral is the Municipal Palace, which dates to 1881. This is another impressive building with 10 columns in front representing the original 10 regions of the state of Los Altos, of which Quetzaltenango was once the capital.

Inside is a pretty courtyard with a few statues and a ‘Xela’ name sign for that important Instagram moment. The Municipal Palace is now the home of the region’s local government offices.  

House of Culture / Casa de la Cultura de Quetzaltenango

Another impressive colonnaded building, and to my eye this is the most interesting on the square because it looks almost identical to the clock tower from Back to the Future. I did check though and can confirm it’s not the same one!

The House of Culture contains Xela’s Museum of Art and Natural History, an underwhelming collection of Maya objects, old photos, stuffed animals and information about Central American political history.

Pasaje Enríquez

On the opposite site of the Central Park from Quetzaltenango Municipal Palace stands Pasaje Enríquez, a once stately but now rather crumbling arcade built in 1900. It houses several bars and restaurants as well as a Spanish school, and is a popular place to hang out in the evenings.

Municipal Theatre / Teatro Municipal de Quetzaltenango

Dating back to 1895, the theatre is one of the most iconic buildings in Xela. It’s an imposing building with a grand Neoclassical façade and statues out front; inside the auditorium has an opulent traditional feel, with plenty of polished wood and red velvet, and seating for 1000 people.

Minerva temple

The Minerva Temple was built in 1901 by dictator Estrada Cabrera as a monument to wisdom and learning. Later he built other temples in cities across Guatemala. There’s not a lot to see here, but it’s worth swinging by to take a look if you’re visiting the bus station or market. It’s a bit weird to see a grand classical-style colonnaded temple in the middle of a traffic intersection next to a bus terminal, but that’s Xela for you.

Read more: Yaxha Guatemala: The Magical Mayan Ruins You Need To Visit

Minerva bus terminal

The Minerva bus terminal is Xela’s main bus terminal. Here is where you’ll find chicken buses that will whisk you away all the nearby towns and villages, including San Pedro Atitlán, San Andres de Xecul, San Francisco el Alto, Chichicastenango and many more.

Even if you’re not planning to catch a bus, it’s a brilliant place to come and look around – with the colourful buses arriving and leaving and the friendly bus conductors shouting their destinations, it’s a riot of noise and colour.

Minerva market

Next to the bus terminal is one of Xela’s main markets – a huge expanse of stalls, part covered, part not. You can buy anything and everything here, from fresh meat and veg to clothes and homewares. Come for a wander to soak up the atmosphere and try some Guatemalan street food, but watch out for your phone and wallet as it can get crowded and there may be pickpockets.

Saint Nicholas’ Church / Iglesia de San Nicolas

A few blocks’ walk northwest of Parque Central, this early 20^th-century church was built in a mock-Gothic style, making it stand out somewhat incongruously from the hustle and bustle of La Democracia market.

Calvary Church / Iglesia el Calvario

Another church worth a quick look is the Iglesia el Calvario. It was built four centuries ago and features an imposing yellow façade and impressive interior. There’s a small park in front of it too.

Cemetery / Cementerio General

Guatemala is famous for its colourful cemeteries (like the one at Sololá), and the cemetery in Xela is no different. Enjoy a stroll in the sunshine and admire the vividly-painted tombs and headstones. Keep an eye out for the grave of the gypsy woman Vanushka, who is said to have died of a broken heart after her lover dumped her. Locals still visit her grave to pray for their own luck in love.

At the time of writing the cemetery was still closed due to Covid, but by the time you visit it may well have reopened.

Read more: The Colourful Market In Solola Guatemala: A Photo Guide

19^th Avenida street art

I stumbled across this by accident while walking back from the bus terminal: a wall running down a long block of 19^th Avenida and covered with colourful street art. The designs were created by students from the local art school and are definitely worth a look if you’re passing by.

What to do in Xela Guatemala

If you’re wondering what to do in Xela when it comes to activities, look no further…

Take a weaving class at Trama Textiles

Just a block from the Parque Central is Trama Textiles, a co-operative works with Maya women weavers in the highlands area of the country.

During the Civil War many women lost their husbands, fathers and brothers, so they had to fend for themselves. Weaving is the main way they can support their families.

Organisations like Trama Textiles help them to get fair prices for their work, and sell their stuff online. They also support them with grants and fundraising to help them survive and look after their children.

Visit their shop on 3a Calle to learn more about their work, buy beautiful hand crafted clothes and accessories, or take a weaving class and learn how to make your own scarf or table runner using a traditional back strap loom.

Read more: Backpacking in Guatemala: All You Need To Know Before You Go

Do a chocolate making workshop at Chocolate Doña Pancha

Chocolate was discovered by the Ancient Maya and cacao was one of their most prized commodities. Today cacao is still grown in Guatemala, and if you’re a chocoholic like me, visiting a chocolate producer is a great way to learn more about this ancient art (and try some delicious, locally produced chocolate in the process).

At Doña Pancha’s, Q75 will get you a history lesson, the chance to mould your own chocolate bar, and a tasting of a chocolate fountain and chocolate tea. Note that this is raw chocolate at its finest, made only of cacao, sugar, and natural flavourings; it’s quite different from the processed stuff you’ll be used to, but it’s still delicious.  

Watch the sunset from Panorama restaurant

Panorama is perched on a hill just a 15-minute steep uphill walk from Central Park. It has a covered outdoor garden area with picnic benches perfectly positioned for enjoying dinner or a cocktail while taking in the view of the city as the sun sets behind in the mountains.

Read more: Guatemala People: 30 Portraits Of Guatemalans That Show Their Rich Culture

Day trips from Xela Guatemala

As well as there being plenty to see and do in the city itself, Xela is within easy reach of some other quirky and interesting towns and villages. All of these are just a short taxi or bus ride away from Xela and give a wonderful insight into real Guatemalan life. If you visit, you’re likely to find yourself the only tourists there.

San Andres Xecul

Made famous for being on the front of the Lonely Planet Guide to Guatemala, San Andres’s ornate yellow church is the main attraction in this little highland town, but there’s also a second church, a small market, and a hike up the mountain to a viewpoint with incredible panoramas over the town and surrounding landscape.

Get there by Uber (about an hour from Xela) or take a chicken bus from either Minerva Terminal or La Rotonda.

Read more: Visiting San Andres Xecul, Guatemala: Home Of The Famous Yellow Church

San Francisco El Alto Market

Every Friday, almost every street in the small town of at San Francisco El Alto is filled with stalls selling everything from clothes and food to homewares and tools. It’s a crazy riot of life and colour and fabulous for photography, but the most energetic part of all is the animal market. All kinds of livestock is on sale, from cows and pigs to rear for meat, to puppies and kittens to keep as pets.

Chicken buses to San Francisco El Alto go from Minerva Terminal and take about 45 minutes to an hour depending on traffic.

If you’re really interested in colourful markets, you could also venture a little further to the internationally-famous market at Chichicastenango.

Church of San Jacinto in Salcajá

Also known as La Ermita de la Concepcion or La Conquistadora, Salcajá’s church is famous for being the oldest church in Central America. It was founded in 1524 by the Spanish shortly after they arrived in Guatemala, and despite being 500 years old and weathering several earthquakes, is still in pretty good condition. It’s only open to the public for special events and holidays, but there is a small museum.

Salcajá is also known for its production of a traditional red alcoholic drink called Caldo de Frutas, made from fermented fruits and hibiscus flowers, which you should definitely try if you’re there.

Salcajá is not far from San Andres Xecúl and San Francisco El Alto, so it’s relatively easy to swing by to take a look at as part of a day trip to one of the other towns.

Hot Springs: Fuentes Georginas or Aguas Amargas

Since the area around Xela is highly volcanic, it probably won’t surprise you to learn that there are hot springs there. A visit to the hot springs near Xela is not only a chance to enjoy a relaxing soak in naturally heated mineral-rich waters, it’s also a great way to see a bit more of the countryside around the city.

There are two main options:

Fuentes Georginas Xela

The most popular and biggest hot springs, Fuentes Georginas (sometimes referred to as Aguas Georginas Xela) has a hotel, multiple pools and well-organised facilities and changing areas. The main pools can be reached by following the path past the shop and café for about five minutes to the end; these pools are bigger, the water is not quite so hot, and they can get crowded at weekends. Entry costs Q60 (£6 or $7.75).

For a better experience you can pay an additional Q25 to enter the annex, which can be found by taking the path to the right of the entrance next to the hotel, and walking down about 200 steps to a secluded jungle area with more outdoor pools. These are smaller and hotter than the main ones, and personally I think worth the effort and extra expense.

Aguas Amargas Xela

Much less built up and crowded, Aguas Amargas is a more rustic experience. There are only two pools, as well as about a dozen private rooms with hot baths inside. Next to the pools are a viewpoint and a nature trail with a short, steep hike to some small waterfalls, where Maya people come to pray. Entry costs Q25 (£2.50 or $3.20).

Both sets of hot springs are near the town of Zunil, about 9 km from Xela. The easiest way to get there is to take a taxi or Uber from Xela’s Parque Central, or by taking a tour. If you prefer to take public transport, you’ll need to take a chicken bus to Zunil, and then get a taxi or pickup from the town to the springs and back again.

Since this can be a bit time consuming and complicated, another good option is to ask your taxi driver to take you there, wait a couple of hours and then bring you back; that way you won’t have to wait for transport and can also stop off in the nearby towns of Almolonga or Zunil to check out their gorgeous yellow churches. For us, this journey took about 45 minutes and cost Q300 including waiting and return.

Copavic glass factory

Also close to Zunil, in the town of Cantel, is the Copavic glass factory. Here workers use traditional glassblowing techniques to transform recycled glass into beautiful objects, and it’s worth a visit to see them showcasing their skills. There’s also a shop where you can buy their beautiful products, though if you’re backpacking I’m not sure how you’d get it home!

At the time of writing the factory was only open on certain random days, so check if they’re open before you travel.

Read more: Chichicastenango Market in Guatemala: A Photo Guide

The best tour companies to use from Xela Guatemala

If some of these hiking routes or day trips take your fancy, but you don’t want to go alone or use public transport, then Xela is home to a couple of excellent tour companies. For solo travellers, joining a tour can be a much safer and more cost-effective way to visit places, not to mention a great way to meet fellow travellers and make friends.

Here are my recommendations:

• Monte Verde Tours: Owned by Josh, an American expat who’s been in Xela for 20 years. Monte Verde run a wide range of hikes and tours at very reasonable prices, as well as share and private shuttles to places like Guatemala City, Antigua, and Lake Atitlán. Josh is extremely friendly and helpful and very quick to respond to questions and give advice. Highly recommended.
• Quetzaltrekkers: A non-profit run by volunteers that puts all money earned from selling tours into community projects. Sadly when I visited, Quetzaltrekkers were still closed due to Covid, but they plan to reopen soon, so hopefully by the time you read this they’ll be back up and running again.
• Adrenalina Tours: Another recommended company that offers hikes, shuttle transport and day and multi-day tours, not just in Xela but across the country. Adrenalina are probably the biggest and slickest tour company in Guatemala, but also a bit more expensive.

Where to eat in Xela Guatemala

After all that sightseeing, you’ll probably be hungry! Here are some of the best places to eat in Xela. I’ve personally visited all of these, some several times, so you can rest assured that all these reviews are genuine.

• La Esquina Asiatica: One of Xela’s most popular restaurants, this small upstairs place tucked away behind Parque Central serves Asian-style food like stir fries and noodle dishes. My favourite was the chicken with cashew nuts.
• El Sabor de la India: Another popular restaurant a few blocks from Parque Central that serves Indian food. It’s not the most authentic, but for Guatemala they do a pretty good job, and the chicken tikka masala is excellent.
• Tertulianos: Far and away the best, but also the most expensive restaurant in Xela, this is the place to go for a treat. The restaurant is in a gorgeous historic house with a shady terrace and two beautiful dining rooms; it feels like stepping out of Guatemala and having lunch in Italy instead. The menu is huge and varied, with steaks, seafood and more, and excellent wines, but be prepared to pay two or three times normal Guatemalan prices for your (excellent) meal.

• Parque Floresta Xela: Not just one restaurant but many, this is Xela’s answer to the food hall trend. About a dozen restaurants grouped around a central seating area decorated with swings, fire pits and fairy lights, it’s cute and welcoming, and with dishes from ramen and sushi to burgers, pizzas, steaks and tacos to choose from, there’s something to suit all tastes. It’s quite far out – you’ll need an Uber to get there – but it’s worth the journey.
• La Flauteria: This small bistro is a good place to try typical Guatemalan dishes like pepian de pollo or caldo de res. They do a good value lunch deal too.
• Panorama: Located on a hillside about 15 minutes uphill climb from the Parque Central, Panorama serves reasonable but slightly overpriced grub including pizzas, nachos and burgers. The main reason to come to Panorama is not so much the food as the amazing sunset views over the city.
• La Stampa: A cute bistro on the corner of the Parque Central that offers a varied menu of meat dishes, pasta and salad. The desserts include crepes and chocolate fudge cake. The space used to be printing press, and the antique printing memorabilia adds a cute touch.  

• El Portal: There are a couple of branches of this popular burger chain in Xela, one in Pasaje Enriquez and one down a side street near the Parque Central. Burgers come in loads of excellent varieties, and while not quite up to gourmet US or UK standards, are pretty good.
• Ay Chihuahua: You’ll need to hop in an Uber from the city centre to get to this new and spacious Mexican place, but it’s worth it for the fun vibe and the excellent tacos and tostadas.
• La Flor Maya: Probably the best place in Xela to try traditional dishes like Pepian, Jocon, and Tamales. Located close to the Iglesia del Calvario in a sunny courtyard, La Flor Maya is a friendly place, though the incessant marimba music did get a little tiresome.

The best cafes and bakeries in Xela Guatemala

Guatemala is a coffee-growing country, and as such has a strong coffee culture. On top of that Xela has some excellent cafés and bakeries – great if, like me, you don’t drink coffee but do love sugary pastries.

Here are some of Xela’s best places for coffee and cake:

• Xelapan: A Xela institution, and probably the main reason I gained weight while living in Xela. There are branches of Xelapan bakery everywhere, meaning you’re never more than a few blocks’ walk from an iced bun or a custard doughnut. Their Central Park flagship store has a full café at the back serving breakfasts and lunches.
• Mandarina: Hidden away in a little courtyard just south of the Parque Central, Mandarina is extremely popular with expats for good reason. Try the enormous fruity smoothies, or the huge build-your-own salads, where you get to pick your base and then as many toppings as you like. Vegans and gluten-free types are catered for.
• Baviera: A cute café with plenty of sofas for lounging comfortably while you drink your coffee. Baviera is decorated with fabulous antiques and reclaimed artefacts and serves excellent breakfasts too.

• San Martin: A upmarket rival to Xelapan, San Martin is right on the Parque Central and offers a huge selection of pastries and small seating area for dining in. My favourite was the Oreo layer cake, which comes with a coffee for Q25 (£2.50 or $3.20).
• Rustic Bakery: Run by a Canadian who understands what the public want, Rustic serves excellent cakes, soups and sandwiches, including gluten-free options. Try the brownies for a little taste of chocolatey goodness, and freshly-baked bread is dangerously moreish. Open Wednesday to Saturday.
• Bake Shop: The fact that it’s only open on Tuesdays and Fridays gives Bake Shop an air of rare desirability that possibly it doesn’t quite deserve, but it’s still a good, solid place to buy a huge variety of freshly baked bread and cakes as well as a few deli items like cheese and yoghurt. It was the only place in Xela I found chewy cookies (mostly here they are a bit dry and crunchy).

The best bars in Xela Guatemala

Xela isn’t really a city where people come to party – most things tend to shut down around 10 pm. But there are still a few nice places where you can grab a Gallo beer or a glass of wine and enjoy the company of new friends and travel buddies.

The best place to start is Pasaje Enriquez, which is a covered arcade with half a dozen bars and restaurants, all of which have indoor seating, picnic benches outside in the arcade and loud, often competing music. With its lively atmosphere, it’s the hub of Xela nightlife and no visit to the city is complete without at least one visit.

• Salon Tecun: Another popular restaurant and bar in Pasaje Enriquez, Salon Tecun serves pizzas and burgers as well as a huge choice of cocktails. Pizza bases are a little thick by Italian standards, but toppings are generous, and the strawberry frozen margarita is to die for. Sometimes there’s live music too.
• Paddy’s Pub: Formerly known as El Shamrock, this is nominally an Irish bar, but don’t let that put you off. Beyond some green paintwork there’s not much that’s Irish about it; Paddy’s is simply a centrally located bar with a decent patio, and sometimes a fire pit to sit round when it’s chilly. They serve food too, and often host live music.

• Casa Kiwi. As well as being a popular hostel, Casa Kiwi has a rooftop bar which, when it’s not raining, is a great place to hang out. On Tuesday nights they host karaoke and there’s sometimes live music or open mic nights too. As it’s a hostel, the bar closes at 10 pm. The quesadillas are excellent, but don’t order the nachos: they are the worst I’ve ever seen.
• Nativos: A welcoming bar upstairs in Pasaje Enriquez with a terrace and balcony views over the Xela streets. They do a good deal on buckets of local Gallo or Cabro beer, and the nachos are excellent. Nativos is also open during the day for breakfast and lunches.

The best Spanish schools in Quetzaltenango

One of the main reasons many visitors come to Xela is to learn Spanish. Not only is this quirky city one of the cheapest places to live in Central America, people here speak very clearly with a clean accent and very little jargon. As a result, there are several good Spanish schools here, as well as countless private tutors offering one-to-one classes at ridiculously cheap rates.

Here are a few that have been recommended.

Utatlán Spanish School: This is where I spent two months learning Spanish while in Xela. Utatlán is centrally located in the Pasaje Enriquez, just off the Parque Central, and offers one-to-one classes for just Q60 (£6 or £7.75) an hour, with lots of flexibility about how many hours and when you study. They also run weekly excursions to many of the local attractions mentioned above, and can arrange homestays for the full immersive experience.

Proyecto Lingüístico Quetzalteco: Collectively owned by its teachers, PLQ is a non-profit language school. Offering structured courses limited to 15 students at a time, PLQ will really immerse and challenge you with up to 5 hours of classes a day, as well as homestays and extra-curricular activities. You can also choose career-specific classes such as Spanish for Healthcare, Legal Spanish, or Latin American history.

Casa Xelajú: I met several people who were very happy with their classes at Casa Xelajú, which like the others offers one-to-one classes at bargain prices, as well as homestays and excursions. They also have an attached building with very nice apartments for rent to students and non-students alike.

Where to stay in Quetzaltenango Guatemala

Most visitors to Xela are either volunteers or Spanish students, so there aren’t many fancy hotels but there are quite a lot of super cheap hostels. Here are my top suggestions to suit all styles and budgets.  

• Muchá Arte Hostal: Hands down the best place to stay in Xela. Muchá has just six huge and comfortable rooms with hot showers arranged round two sunny and artistically-decorated central courtyards. There’s a kitchen guests can use, a delicious breakfast is included, the staff are incredibly friendly and helpful, it’s spotlessly clean, and an absolute bargain. I planned to stay only a short time while I looked for something longer term and ended up staying for two months. Book early to avoid disappointment (you can always cancel later).
• Casa Seibel: Before Hostal Muchá opened, this was most people’s top recommendation in Xela. A cute hostel in a slightly crumbly colonial-style house just two blocks from Central Park, Casa Seibel has dorms with individual beds (no bunks), private rooms, and cosy communal areas. If you’re looking for a place to meet fellow travellers, this might be a better choice for you than the super quiet Muchá.
• Casa Xelajú Apartments: If you would prefer an apartment rather than a hotel, Casa Xelajú Apartments are a great option. They have centrally-located studio, 1-, 2-, and 2-bed apartments with hot showers and fast wifi included and all amenities you need. Friendly staff are on hand to help if you need anything.
• Yoga House: If you’re staying long term as a student or volunteer, Yoga House might be just the place for you. Although the rooms are very basic and some have shared bathrooms and no hot water, Yoga House is a fun community, where residents are required to stay a minimum of 1 month and there are daily yoga classes and HIIT workouts included in your (very cheap) rent. If you’re not staying there, you can also do the classes at Q5 (50p/65c) a pop.
• Casa Kiwi: Xela’s popular party hostel, Casa Kiwi attracts a younger, more energetic crowd, thanks to its rooftop bar and dorm rooms. They also have a travel agency to help you organise your excursions and shuttles.
• LATAM hotel Plaza Pradera Quetzaltenango. The luxury choice, Plaza Pradera has extremely clean and modern rooms, room service, a rooftop pool, fitness centre, and a restaurant on site. It’s a fair way from the city centre though.

The best gym in Xela: Energym

If you’re planning to spend much time in Xela, or you’re a bit of a fitness addict, you’ll soon find that outdoor exercise is a little tricky to organise. Yes, there’s loads of hiking, and some really keen beans run up and down Cerro El Baúl (eek!), but otherwise there aren’t really any outside exercise spaces and the pavements and streets are far too narrow and full of traffic for running.

Instead I joined Energym, which is just two blocks from Parque Central and has an entire upper floor for weights, and a downstairs area with treadmills, cross trainers and spin bikes. Admission is just Q25 (£2.50 / $3.25) per visit, or Q100 (£10 / $13) a week.

Where to shop in Xela Guatemala

As Guatemala’s second largest city, there are plenty of places to shop and I couldn’t possibly list them all here. But here are a few places I’ve found useful for buying essentials. There are others, but these ones are all walkable from the city centre.

For clothes: Megapaca

Guatemala has a network of giant thrift stores called ‘Pacas’, where a lot of the stuff that gets donated to charity shops in the UK and USA gets shipped to be sold. One of the best that I found during my time here is Megapaca, just a block from Minerva Terminal. It’s a huge warehouse bursting at the seams with second hand clothes – about 75% of the stuff is completely unwearable but if you need to buy something and are prepared to dig, you can find some excellent bargains here.

For toiletries: Paiz supermarket or Walmart

About 15 minutes walk north of Parque Central, Paiz is ‘the supermarket of dreams’, stocked with many of the imported products you know and love from home. It’s expensive, of course, but here is where you will be most likely to find your favourite brand of shampoo or moisturiser.

There is also a Walmart in Zone 3, which I’m told is even better; I never went there as it’s much further away and I found what I needed in Paiz.

Supermarket: La Torre (or Paiz)

La Torre is another big brand of Guatemalan supermarket which has one of the best selections of groceries as well as imported products. Either La Torre or Paiz will also sort you right out if you’re after imported goodies like English Breakfast tea (as I was) or Swiss chocolate (but be prepared to pay for it!).

Best mall: Utz Ulew Mall

There’s a much bigger mall, the Centros Comerciales Pradera Xela in Zone 3, but it’s a taxi ride away, so I never went there. I found most things I needed either in the supermarkets or the Utz Ulew mall, which is about 15 minutes’ walk from the centre. There are a few fancy clothes shops here, an electronics/gadget shop, and food court, and cinema which sometimes shows films in English with subtitles (rather than dubbed into Spanish as most are).

Best market: La Democracia

La Democracia market stretches along the side of the street for about four blocks, about a 15-minute walk northwest of Parque Central. There are stalls selling clothes, shoes, electronic accessories, groceries, street food and much more. There’s also a branch of the supermarket Despensa Familiar. It’s less mad than the Minerva Market and since it runs along the street, impossible to get lost.

ATMs and banks in Xela

There’s no shortage of places to get cash in Xela. Both the 5B and Banco Industrial (BI) banks have ATMs on the Parque Central, but these will probably charge you about $4 for withdrawals.

The only brand of bank that did not charge me to withdraw cash is the red and white BAC Credomatic. There’s one a block north of the theatre, but it doesn’t have an ATM, so to get cash you’ll need to walk to the one in Montblanc on 18^th Avenida, just across from Paiz supermarket and the Utz Ulew mall.

Note that ATMs are only available when the banks are open (they are all closed evenings, Saturday afternoons and all day on Sunday) so don’t get caught out as I have done a couple of times!

How much time should I spend in Xela Guatemala?

Many people come to Xela for an extended period: to volunteer, or learn Spanish. If that’s your goal, a month or more is not an unusual amount of time to stay here, and you’ll soon meet others doing the same thing.

However if you’re planning to hop over to Xela from either Antigua or Lake Atitlán just for a short visit as part of a tour of Guatemala, I’d suggest something like three days is a good amount of time.

A suggested Xela itinerary

As you’ve seen from the lists above, there are plenty of ways you could choose to spend your time in Xela, but here’s a brief suggested itinerary.

• Day 1: Explore the city and set up your tours and visits. In the afternoon hike up Cerro El Baul or watch the sunset from Panorama restaurant.
• Day 2: Volcano Day! Get up early and hike up Santa Maria or Tajumulco, or for an easier hike you could visit Cerro Quemado or Laguna Chicabal. In the afternoon, take a taxi to Fuentes Georginas or Aguas Amargas and relax in the hot springs.
• Day 3: Cultural day trip to San Andres de Xecul, San Franciso El Alto, or Salcajá.

What is the weather like in Xela Guatemala?

Like all of Guatemala, Xela has two seasons: dry and rainy. The dry season is between November and April, and the rainy season is May to October. However, since Xela is up in the highlands it never gets that hot here: during the dry season it enjoys warm but not hot weather, and plenty of sunshine, but during the rainy season it can be pretty cold and very wet, with long periods that are grey and overcast.

When I was there, between April and July, mornings were usually dry and overcast, or occasionally sunny, but the afternoons and evenings were often wet, and nighttime temperatures sometimes dropped to as low as 10 degrees C (50F).

What should I pack for Xela?

Since Xela is colder than the rest of Guatemala, here are some suggested things you should add to your packing list if you plan to visit.

• At least one pair of long trousers for the chilly evenings.
• Light jacket or sweater.
• Waterproof jacket.
• Umbrella.
• Suncream – don’t forget you burn much more easily at altitude.
• Hiking clothes such as leggings or sports t-shirts, and a cap or hat.
• Hiking shoes or trail trainers.
• If you plan to do a lot of volcano hikes, you’ll need at least one warm base layer, plus a proper down jacket, warm hat, scarf and gloves. Temperatures at the tops of the volcanoes can drop below freezing.
• Note also that Xela is much more conservative than other parts of Guatemala, and people cover up here. You will rarely see anyone, local or expat, wearing short shorts or tank tops. Out of respect for local customs, and to avoid sticking out too much, try to wear clothes that cover your shoulders and thighs.

Is Quetzaltenango safe?

Xela is certainly a much friendlier and safer city than Guatemala City, and Zone 1 in the city centre is generally safe. I walked around there a lot by myself, often carrying my camera, and never felt threatened.

That said, as with all of Guatemala, it’s best to be sensible. Don’t walk alone after dark (though walking a couple of blocks back to your hostel from a central bar is fine as long as you are not too drunk), never go hiking alone, and don’t venture into some of the more remote neighbourhoods if you can avoid it.

When hiking, only take the minimum amount of cash and leave valuables and credit cards in your hotel.

Where can I get more information about living in Xela Guatemala?

There are two very helpful Facebook groups, Expats Living in Guatemala and Xela Expat and Travellers Community, which are great places to post questions, search for information, and meet new people. I made several IRL friends during my time in Xela through the Xela Facebook group.

Did you find this post useful? Have questions? Come follow me on Instagram, Threads or Twitter (X) and share your thoughts!

Where to next?

If you liked this post, why not try some of my other Guatemala posts?

• The Colourful Market In Solola Guatemala: A Photo Guide
• The Thrilling Volcan De Acatenango Hike In Antigua Guatemala
• A Review Of Villa Bokeh, A Luxury Hotel In Antigua Guatemala
• The Best Wheeled Backpack: Osprey Farpoint Wheels 65 Review
• Backpacking in Guatemala: All You Need To Know Before You Go

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