The majority of visitors to Italy make a beeline for the big-hitting, headline attractions: Rome, Venice, the Amalfi Coast.
But if you want to avoid the crowds on your holidays while still soaking up Italy’s gorgeous scenery, fantastic weather, and incredible cultural heritage, you could do a lot worse than ignoring the obvious top spots and heading to the region of Umbria instead.
Umbria is full of gorgeous Italian towns, and one of them is Todi.
Introducing Umbria Italy
The region of Umbria is slap bang in the middle of Italy, and it’s the only region that doesn’t have either a coastline, or a border with any other country.
It might not be as famous as other areas of Italy like Tuscany, home to Florence and Pisa, or Campania, gateway to the Amalfi Coast, Mount Vesuvius, and the island of Capri. And admittedly, these are all great place to visit on any European city itinerary.
But what Umbria lacks in A-list status it more than makes up for in undulating landscapes, intriguing history and impressive architecture. A holiday in Umbria should definitely be on your Italian bucket list.
And while you’re in Umbria, you should definitely visit the historic hill town of Todi.
Introducing Todi, Umbria
Todi, a charming medieval town in the heart of Umbria, is one of the most beautiful towns in Italy.
Universally admired for its stunning views, well-preserved historical monuments, and rich cultural heritage, Todi is the perfect place to explore a lesser-visited part of the country, and perhaps to get away from the crowds and chaos of the cities.
Like many of Umbria’s towns, Todi is perched dramatically on a hilltop, from where former residents in centuries gone by could easily defend themselves against any attackers. Now it looks like something from a fairytale.
If you were going to design the perfect Italian town, it probably wouldn’t look too different from this.
Todi is jam-packed with unspoiled stone houses, winding narrow streets, and dramatic churches, making it feel like a film set. It’s also clean, quiet, and well-looked-after. Apart from the cars, I imagine it doesn’t look all that different from how it did a hundred years ago.
It’s easy to while away a couple of hours just wandering the narrow streets with a camera and finding stunning buildings and gorgeous details at every turn.
And when you’re ready for a break, there are plenty of places to grab an ice cream. In fact according to Lonely Planet, one of Todi’s gelaterias sells some of the world’s ‘most perfect’ gelato. I’m not quite sure what qualifies it as ‘perfect’, but I tried a few different flavours and they were certainly very tasty.
Things to do in Todi Italy
Todi is a small town so there isn’t a huge amount to do, but you can easily while away a relaxed day seeing the main sights and enjoying a delicious Italian lunch. Here are some of the things you can do there.
Explore the Piazza del Popolo
The main square of Todi is the Piazza del Popolo, a clean open space surrounded by shuttered buildings painted in earthy tones. The square is the heart of Todi, a gathering place for locals and visitors, and the starting point for many of the town’s tours and excursions.
From here it’s easy to stroll around the old town, or you can take a guided old town walking tour and learn about the town’s history from a local guide.
Visit the Cathedral of San Fortunato
One of the most beautiful and historically important monuments in Todi is the Cathedral of San Fortunato, a magnificent Gothic church that dates back to the 12th century.
This is the site of one of the most famous legends of Todi, which tells of a young man named Fortunato who was martyred for his faith. The church is also home to a beautiful fresco by Perugino, as well as many other works of art, including a stained-glass window by Giacomo della Porta.
Stroll in the Parco Della Rocca
The Parco Della Rocca is a small park just behind the San Fortunato church. It has some nice shady walkways, and some small ruins, all that remain of the original 14th century fortress that once stood here. There are also pretty decent views out over the surrounding landscape.
Take a cooking class
One of the most enjoyable and authentic ways to experience the culture and cuisine of Todi is to take a cooking class. Classes typically involve a visit to a local market before heading to a local home where you learn how to make classic Umbrian dishes such as torta al testo (a type of flatbread) and strangozzi (a type of pasta), before finally getting to taste the fruits of your labour.
I’m not a great cook but I really love taking local cooking classes as they’re a great way to learn more about the local cuisine and culture, meet new people, and enjoy some fresh and delicious food!

Visit the Todi Civic Museum
If you’re interested in the history and art of Todi, the Museo Civico is well worth a quick stop.
This small museum is located on the top floor of the Palace of Podestà, on the eastern side of Piazza del Popolo, and is home to a collection of artefacts and works of art that tell the story of Todi and its people.
From Roman statuettes to Greek and medieval coins and pottery, as well as some gorgeous artworks by Giovanni di Spagna and Ferrau da Faenza, while this isn’t the Uffizi Gallery by any stretch, it still has some interesting things to see.
Visit the sunflower fields of Umbria
Not quite ‘in’ Todi, but not far away if you rent a car, is one of Umbria’s highlights: the famous sunflower fields. Driving round the region in July you’ll see fields of the cheery yellow blooms everywhere you go.
Forget Japan’s cherry blossoms or Amsterdam’s tulip fields – Umbria’s sunflowers are where it’s at! For some reason the influencers haven’t really discovered these yet – at least not as much – so you get all the glorious flowers, with none of the crowds.
What’s more, there are enough of them that even though you may spot the occasional posing Instagrammer, it’ll be easy enough for you to find your own spot.
Of course when I was there we couldn’t resist pulling the car over and going in for a closer look.
I was very careful to respect the farmer’s property and not trample on any flowers. Although they look tightly-packed, it’s actually quite easy to walk between the rows without damaging them. But do be respectful and careful, and don’t stray too far from the side of the road.
The sunflowers bloom in summertime, usually from June to August. To get the best chance of seeing them looking as good as this, aim for late June and early July, and rent a car so you can pull over whenever you spot one that takes your fancy.
Be careful to pull safely off the road though – those Italian drivers tend to take the windy country roads rather fast!
Where to stay near Todi Italy
Todi is quite small so options are somewhat limited, but there’s still a pretty decent selection of guest houses and small hotels in Todi, like Lemon Tree Guest House which gets a 9.1 rating on Booking.com.
If you’re travelling with a group, Umbria is also an amazing place to rent a villa with your family or a group of friends.
I went to Italy with my family in July and spent a week staying at the imposing Villa Ceccomoro, which is set in the countryside just a short drive outside Todi.
The house is on a hill, surrounded by rolling landscapes on two sides, which makes for a perfect spot for sunset drinks and dinner.
We also had a pool, which was just as well. Umbria in July is hot! Temperatures pushed close to 35 degrees some days, and once even hit 38. Fortunately being on a hilltop meant there was usually a breeze, but you definitely need to remember to bring your suncream.
It’s a little remote, so you’ll need to rent a car, but once you have one it’s easy to explore the area. Assuming, that is, that you’re happy to brave the Italian drivers!
But it’s worth doing, because as well as the gorgeous town of Todi, Umbria is chock-full of glorious ancient towns, like Orvieto and Assisi, which are easy to get to if you have your own transport.
If you don’t have a car, you can also book a day tour that visits both Todi and Orvieto, with tours starting in either Orvieto or Perugia.
Visiting Todi Italy: some handy FAQs
How do you get to Todi?
There isn’t a major international airport in Todi itself. The nearest cities with airports are either Rome or Perugia – and there are direct flights to both from London and other European airports. Once in Rome or Perugia, it’s best to rent a car, or you can take a train or Orvieto and then a bus or a taxi to Todi.
What is Todi known for?
Todi is known for its well-preserved medieval architecture, beautiful hilltop setting, and rich history. It’s a popular destination for relaxation, cultural exploration, and enjoying delicious Umbrian cuisine.
What are some things to do in Todi?
Explore the charming Piazza del Popolo, visit the impressive Todi Cathedral, wander through the medieval streets, and admire the breathtaking views from the town walls. You can also visit museums, take a cooking class, explore nearby wineries, or go hiking in the surrounding countryside.
When is the best time to visit Todi?
Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) offer pleasant weather and fewer crowds compared to the peak summer months – which can be very hot and more crowded. However, Todi is charming year-round, with festive events and cozy winter vibes during the colder months.
Is Todi expensive to visit?
Compared to major Italian cities, Todi is generally considered moderately priced.
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My favourite travel tools and brands
To help you organise your trip, here’s a short list of some of the brands and tools I use over and over again when I’m planning my travels. You can see more on my Travel Resources page.
- Booking.com: A huge range of hotels to choose from, often with free cancellation. If you book hotels regularly you can earn discounts. I’m on Genius Level 3 which gets me 20% off!
- Expedia: Another great place to find hotels and Expedia also sell flights, car hire, and loads more all in one place.
- Skyscanner: The only place I ever go to search for flights and compare prices.
- Flight Centre: Booking a more complicated route? Let Flight Centre organise it for you (and deal with the drama when something goes wrong).
- Priority Pass: I love having access to 1600+ airport lounges when I fly, allowing me to enjoy my time at the airport. Buy through my link and you get up to 20% off!
- Airalo: Say goodbye to ridiculous mobile roaming charges. Did you know you can now buy ane-SIM, install it in your phone before you leave home, and then use data abroad at local prices? Game changer. Get US$3 credit with code BELLA5735.
- TourRadar: If you prefer group travel and organised tours, TourRadar has a huge range of fantastic tours from respected operators. They’re very helpful and have 4.5 stars on TrustPilot.
- Viator: Part of the TripAdvisor brand, Viator is another great place to search for group adventures and day trips.
- GetYourGuide: A great place to find local tours and day trips in your destination.
- Wex Photo Video: The UK’s best camera gear store.
- Ellis Brigham: Looking for good quality backpacks, travel clothes and other gear? Ellis Brigham is where I buy almost all of mine.
- Rentalcars.com: Part of the Booking.com family and the world’s largest online car rental service, with 24/7 customer service.
- World Nomads Travel Insurance: I never ever travel without travel insurance and nor should you!
Where to next?
If you enjoyed this post, here are a few other Europe ones you might enjoy…
- Palma De Mallorca: The Surprisingly Perfect City Break Destination
- Ceske Budejovice, Czech Republic: What To See, Eat, Do
- Beautiful Frescoes, Graffiti and Street Art in Naples, Italy
- A Neilson Activity Holidays Review – Messini Beach Club in Greece
- Seeing Gannets at the Incredible Bass Rock in Scotland