“We haven’t seen a single whale for the last five days,” says Sami, somewhat anxiously. “I’m not sure they are here right now. So we will look for them, but we might not see one today either.”
It’s not exactly what most people want to hear when they’ve just boarded a boat for a seven-hour trip to go whale watching in Mirissa, Sri Lanka’s premiere whale spotting destination. Billed as a mecca for several species of whales including the elusive blue whale, the largest animal on the planet, Mirissa has become known THE place to go whale watching in Sri Lanka. So if we’ve come all this way to spend hours looking at an empty horizon, I imagine most of the group is going to be a touch disappointed.
Note: This whale watching experience was gifted by the Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau. However, all thoughts and opinions are my own, and I don’t accept freebies or payment in exchange for positive reviews. All prices are correct at the time of writing. Some of the links you will see in this post are affiliate links. This means that if you click through and make a purchase, I will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.
Whale watching highs and lows
This is not my first whale watching rodeo – in fact, it’ll be my fourth attempt. My first was about 20 years ago, in the middle of the South African winter, when the sea was more than a little choppy and I got pretty nauseous bobbing about waiting for whales. They may or may not have appeared; I was too busy retching over the side to notice.
About ten years ago, off the coast of Vancouver Island, Canada, I nearly froze to death because I wasn’t wearing warm enough clothes. We did see whales, but at that time neither my camera nor my cold-weather photography skills were really up to the job.
My big whale-watching break happened in January 2020 in Antarctica where, on one particularly memorable day, there were so many humpbacks surrounding our tiny zodiac boat that the guide described the sea as ‘whale soup’, and we were lucky enough to be treated to the dramatic sight of this magnificent animal breaching out of the water. It was one of the most breathtaking experiences of my life, and to be honest I’m not sure it can be topped.
So today, I don’t much mind if we see whales or not. The sun is shining, the sky is clean as a new pin after yesterday’s rain, and the sea is calm. I don’t think either the weather or seasickness will be a problem. So maybe I’ll be happy if we end up just cruising around without finding any whales. There are certainly worse ways to spend the day, after all.
Whale watching in Mirissa
Our Sri Lanka whale watching trip begins before dawn, when we’re instructed to be ready in the reception of our hotel with our bags and cameras, ready to head to the port. It’s a little weird to be putting on suncream when it’s still pitch-black outside, but once the sun’s up I know I’ll be too busy looking for wildlife to remember to apply it, and a pasty white girl like me can’t be too careful, especially not on a blue-sky day on the water!
The sun is only just beginning to peek over the tops of the trees as we arrive at Mirissa Fisheries Harbour, where our whale watching cruise departs from. Already the port is full of life, fishermen and market traders thronging the waterside, vehicles revving as they try to pass each other on the narrow road, and colourful wooden fishing vessels and stately whale-watching boats beginning to make their way out into the open ocean.
As a photographer I’m both captivated and insanely frustrated – this kind of vibrant scene, buzzing with authentic local life and bathed in glorious dawn light, is my ideal photography location, but we don’t have time to stop for pictures.
So my top tip for any photographers reading this is to try to arrive early so you can capture the colourful harbour before beginning your whale-watching experience.
Read more: A Dream Itinerary For Sri Lanka In Two Weeks
Our whale-watching boat
We, meanwhile, trundle along to the far end of the dock, where our chariot awaits. Many of the whale-watching boats we’ve already passed are large double-decker cruisers crammed with passengers, but we’re being treated to a more luxury experience – a sleek double-hulled catamaran with timber decking and plenty of space to spread out.
We board and everyone tries to find the best spot – the photographers amongst us grabbing spaces on the top deck for a better view of the surrounding ocean, and the pleasure-cruisers settling in on the comfy cushions on the lower level.
As the crew casts off and we make our way out of the harbour, we’re served an early breakfast of eggs, toast, fruit and coffee, and then the real hard work begins: soaking up the sunshine and basking in the fresh sea air while the captain scans the horizon for whales.
Mirissa Sri Lanka: a whale-watching paradise
Sri Lanka has a well-deserved reputation for being one of the best places in the world to see whales, and Mirissa, on the island’s south coast, is the capital of the Sri Lanka whale watching industry.
During the northern hemisphere’s winter, over 20 different species of sea creatures can be spotted here, from the legendary blue whales that make the region so famous, to Bryde’s whales, sperm whales, orcas, bottlenose and spinner dolphins, and turtles.
There are a couple of reasons why Mirissa is one of the world’s premiere whale-watching destinations. Just off the tip of the country’s south coast, the continental shelf drops sharply. This meeting of cold water from the deep and the warm coastal waters causes rich nutrients to bloom and flourish, which feeds the krill that the whales love to eat. In addition, it seems the whales’ migratory path through the Indian Ocean passes just off the coast of Sri Lanka, leading to what may be, at times, the highest density of blue whales anywhere on the planet.
Peak whale watching season is between November and April, when you have a greater than 90% chance of seeing whales. The best time of all is between January and March, when a high concentration of whales also coincides with warmer weather, less rain, and calmer seas. You can also try in other months too, but the sea is likely to be rougher, the weather worse, and your odds reduced.
Meeting dolphins in Sri Lanka
And so it is that, fuelled with breakfast and the hope of a marine encounter to remember, we venture forth into the open sea accompanied by half a dozen other whale-watching boats of various sizes. And it’s not long before our little flotilla is joined – not by whales, but by a pod of playful bottlenose dolphins, which come right up and swim along in front of us, occasionally cresting fully out of the water as we travel along together.
Everyone rushes down to the front of the lower deck to get a closer look, and for a moment we are all speechless with delight, cameras snapping and videos rolling as we try to record the joyful memories for later. But after about ten minutes the dolphins lose interest and disappear, and we’re left with nothing but huge smiles and camera rolls full of images. If we don’t see any whales, we won’t mind. We’ve already had a wildlife encounter to remember.
Whale watching in Sri Lanka
“Everyone seen enough dolphins? Shall we look for whales now?” asks Sami, and we veer off away from the other boats, setting out on our own private search. Sami tells me that all the boats are in radio contact, so that we can each scour our own bit of ocean. Whoever spots a whale first will tell the others so everyone will get a chance to see it. I hope we find one first, though, so that we get a few private moments before the other boats arrive.
We sail along for an hour or so without seeing much of anything, just miles of blue sky, bright sunshine, and open sea. As ways to spend the day go, it’s really not too shabby, even without the whales. But then, abruptly, we feel the boat stop and do a 180. There can be only one reason why we’ve turned round so sharply. One of the other boats has spotted a whale.
After 20 more minutes we find them – a group of whale-watching boats clustered together. A bit like when you see safari vehicles all in a row, you immediately know an animal is nearby. But what species, and where is it?
Sami directs us all up onto the top deck – the best place, he assures us, to spot the whale when it surfaces. We wait, lenses poised, and eyes darting about; nobody wants to miss that telltale spout.
And then there’s a shout, ‘There it is!’
Everyone scrambles, looking about. ‘Where? Where?!’
And then we see it, a little ahead and to the right, just a glimpse of something dark in the water, surfacing and then disappearing in an instant. But the crew have seen enough. ‘A blue whale!’ they report. ‘A small one, but definitely a blue whale!’
It was only a moment, but it was there. A real, elusive blue whale!
The legendary blue whale
If you’re an animal lover it’s exciting to see any kind of whale, but there’s something extra magical about seeing a blue whale. These enormous creatures are the biggest animal ever to have lived, reaching up to 100 ft long (or 30 metres, the size of a Boeing 737 plane) and 200 tonnes in weight. They cruise the oceans at about five miles an hour, and can live to be 80 or 90 years old.
Aggressive whaling in the first half of the 20th century almost drove blue whales to extinction, and although their numbers have increased since then, they are still listed as endangered on the IUCN red list. So to see one of these huge, rare animals with your own eyes, well, that’s an incredible privilege.
Spotting blue whales in Sri Lanka
We’re told that since blue whales dive for up to 10-12 minutes at a time, we may have to wait a bit before the animal surfaces again, so we motor a little closer to the other boats and settle in, eyes peeled and cameras at the ready.
And sure enough, just 10 minutes later, it reappears, this time a bit nearer to us. We see the small puff of breath first, and then the whale’s smooth back, followed by the dorsal fin, before it disappears under the water again for another 10 minutes.
We get better at anticipating it. Someone sets a timer, so we know when to be on the alert. We learn that each time it surfaces, punctually every 9 minutes or so, it crests three times before diving again. So we learn to wait, and adjust our camera settings for the perfect shot. It’s not a spectacular breach, but on one occasion we do get treated to the sight of the whale’s fluke as it dives, and for me just the thrill of seeing a glimpse of the world’s largest living creature, in the flesh, is enough.
We follow the whale for about half an hour – or three more surfaces – and then let it carry on its way. Meanwhile, we head back towards the harbour, where there’s a delicious fresh lunch of fish, prawns and rice cooked in the ship’s galley, and a chance to swim off the back of the boat before returning to the shore, exhilarated and happy after our whale encounter.
Read more: Glamping And Hiking In The Beautiful Knuckles Mountain Range, Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka whale watching tips and FAQs
What animals can you see on a whale watching tour in Sri Lanka?
At least 10 different species of whales have been spotted in the waters around Sri Lanka, including blue whales, fin whales, right whales, Bryde’s whales, minke whales, humpbacks, sperm, whales, orcas, pilot whales and bottlenose and spinner dolphins.
How much does whale-watching in Mirissa cost?
The price of Sri Lanka whale-watching tours varies depending on the duration of the trip and the level of service.
We travelled with Sail Lanka on their luxury catamaran cruise that lasted seven hours and included breakfast and lunch and the chance to swim or even do stand up paddleboarding at the end. The boat is spacious, with a maximum of 30 people on board, and as a result costs US$100 per person, plus a standard US$18 per person government wildlife-watching fee on top.
Other companies offer much cheaper trips costing as little as US$23 per person (plus the same US$18 per person government wildlife fee), but this will be for a shorter trip and a much bigger, more crowded boat, without meals included.
A decent mid-range trip might cost $50 per person, include breakfast, and have a flexible end time (so the company will stay out as long as possible to give you the best chance of seeing at least one whale).
How long do Mirissa whale watching tours last?
Again, it depends how much you want to spend. Our trip lasted seven hours, but you can also do shorter tours that cost a lot less, or longer ones.
Some companies do shorter trips lasting just 2-3 hours. These will be much cheaper, but of course the longer you spend on the water, the greater chance you will have of spotting whales.
Sail Lanka also offer overnight tours where you spend a night in a cabin on the boat – these depart at 4 pm and bring you back at 1.30 pm next day and cost US$ 375 for two people sharing a cabin, plus the government wildlife fee.
What are the Mirissa whales watching boats like?
Whale watching boats range in size from small private speedboats for about 4-6 passengers to large double-decked ships taking up to 300 people at a time. Some boats offer little more than a platform to spot whales from; others, like ours, have more space, comfy seating, a platform for swimming off, and a galley to cook lunch. The facilities (and space) you have will depend on the duration of the trip and how much you want to pay.
Whales can sometimes be found up to 20 km offshore, so for your best chance of seeing them, pick a boat that’s big and powerful enough to travel a bit further and deal with potentially rough conditions.
Where do the Mirissa whale tours leave from?
All the whale watching tours depart from the same place – the Mirissa Fisheries harbour. Some tours may pick you up from your hotel, but for the most part you will need to pay a few rupees for a tuk tuk to take you there. Your hotel can organise this for you. Make sure you get to the port nice and early so you don’t miss your departure, and to allow time for taking photos of the hustle and bustle in the port before you set sail.
Is whale watching in Mirissa ethical?
This is an important question and definitely something you should consider, especially since some of the whale watching tours in Mirissa have developed a bad reputation for being unethical.
Overcrowded boats, sometimes up to 20 at a time, get too close to the whales, stressing and harassing them or even driving them into shipping lanes. Operators do this because they think their customers want to get super close to the animals, so it’s important to do your research and send the right message by asking questions about their practices.
Always pick an operator that will put the welfare of the whales first by keeping a safe distance, not crossing their path, and reducing speed when a whale is nearby.
Can you swim with the dolphins and whales in Mirissa Sri Lanka?
Although swimming was included with our tour, we only did it when there were no animals around. It is not considered safe or ethical to swim with the dolphins and whales, so steer clear of any tour operator that offers it.
What to wear for watching whales in Mirissa
You’ll be spending several hours on deck at sea, so it’s important to be prepared for the weather. Shorts and t-shirt or a sundress are fine, as well as comfy shoes (though depending on the boat you may be asked to take them off when you board).
Don’t forget sun cream and a hat, as the strong rays bouncing off the water can cause sunburn or heat stroke before you know it. And bring waterproofs if it’s going to rain. If your tour offers swimming or SUP, don’t forget your swimsuit and a towel!
Read more: Nature Vacations: 25 Amazing Places For An Outdoors Adventure
Where else can you see whales in Sri Lanka?
Apart from Mirissa, which is the most popular destination, other good places to try to spot whales and dolphins in Sri Lanka are Trincomalee in the north-east and Kalpitiya on the northwest coast. If you go to Trincomalee you should be able to see blue whales there between March and July.
What are some other things to do in Mirissa?
Mirissa and its sister town of Weligama are both busy beach resort towns, popular with tourists, backpackers and surfers, and packed with hotels, bars and restaurants. It’s a great area to visit if you want to relax by the sea for a few days.
The area has also become something of a hotspot for Ayurveda and wellness treatments, so if you’ve got a bit more time to spare, you could also visit one of Mirissa’s Ayurvedic spas, like the beautiful Ayurvie Weligama Ayurvedic Retreat, for a massage or even an overnight stay.
Where to stay in Mirissa
There’s no shortage of places to stay in either Weligama or Mirissa, depending on your preferences and budget. We stayed at Mandara Resort in Weligama, a mid-range hotel with a pool and direct access to the beach. It was quiet and chilled out – but if you prefer something a bit more buzzing, then why not try some of the many other resorts and hotels in Mirissa?
So there you have it! Hopefully everything you need to know about going whale watching in Mirissa, Sri Lanka. I hope you enjoy your trip and that you manage to spot loads of whales!
where to next?
If you liked, this, why not try some of my other wildlife encounters posts
- Uganda Gorilla Safaris – The Real Inside Story
- Chimpanzee Trekking In Uganda: A Breathtaking Wildlife Adventure
- 60+ Awesome Antarctica Photography Tips
- Scotland’s Isle of May: Puffins, Beautiful Landscapes and More
- Visiting the Skomer Island Puffins in Wales
- Alphonse Island Seychelles: 20 Things To Know Before You Go
My favourite travel tools and brands
To help you organise your trip, here’s a short list of some of the brands and tools I use over and over again when I’m planning my travels. You can see more on my Travel Resources page.
- Booking.com: A huge range of hotels to choose from, often with free cancellation. If you book hotels regularly you can earn discounts. I’m on Genius Level 3 which gets me 20% off!
- Expedia: Another great place to find hotels and Expedia also sell flights, car hire, and loads more all in one place.
- Skyscanner: The only place I ever go to search for flights and compare prices.
- Flight Centre: Booking a more complicated route? Let Flight Centre organise it for you (and deal with the drama when something goes wrong).
- Priority Pass: I love having access to 1600+ airport lounges when I fly, allowing me to enjoy my time at the airport. Buy through my link and you get up to 20% off!
- Airalo: Say goodbye to ridiculous mobile roaming charges. Did you know you can now buy ane-SIM, install it in your phone before you leave home, and then use data abroad at local prices? Game changer. Get US$3 credit with code BELLA5735.
- TourRadar: If you prefer group travel and organised tours, TourRadar has a huge range of fantastic tours from respected operators. They’re very helpful and have 4.5 stars on TrustPilot.
- Viator: Part of the TripAdvisor brand, Viator is another great place to search for group adventures and day trips.
- GetYourGuide: A great place to find local tours and day trips in your destination.
- Wex Photo Video: The UK’s best camera gear store.
- Ellis Brigham: Looking for good quality backpacks, travel clothes and other gear? Ellis Brigham is where I buy almost all of mine.
- Rentalcars.com: Part of the Booking.com family and the world’s largest online car rental service, with 24/7 customer service.
- World Nomads Travel Insurance: I never ever travel without travel insurance and nor should you!
Liked this whale watching Mirissa post?
Social shares help support my hard work! You can share via the buttons at the bottom, or pin this handy Pinterest Pin. Thank you!
