Inside The Luxury Rocky Mountaineer Train: My Full Review


Written by
BELLA FALK

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A couple take photos out of the window inside the gold leaf carriage on the Canadian Rocky Mountaineer train
A couple take photos out of the window inside the gold leaf carriage on the Canadian Rocky Mountaineer train

Throughout the 20th century, train travel always held an aura of glamour and luxury. 

With gleaming coaches, snacks trolleys pushed by smartly-dressed conductors, elegant dining cars, and glorious views of the countryside rolling past as you gazed from the comfort of your richly-upholstered seat, the railway was the ultimate stress-free way to travel. 

Sounds dreamy, right?

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It might not feel like it anymore – especially if you’re reading this while squeezed onto the standing-room-only 6.45 train out of Waterloo, with your face in someone else’s armpit – but this kind of journey does still exist. Luxurious train travel is not dead!

And there’s no railway route more luxurious, or more glamorous, than the Rocky Mountaineer train in Canada. 

Save this Canadian Rocky Mountaineer pin for later
Save this Canadian Rocky Mountaineer pin for later

About my trip on the luxury Rocky Mountaineer Canada

I was lucky enough to win a trip on the world-famous Rocky Mountaineer train in a charity raffle in aid of the excellent Charitable Travel Fund (which is amazing because I never win anything). 

The prize was two tickets in the GoldLeaf service on one of the Rocky Mountaineer 2 day Canadian routes between Vancouver and Banff, Lake Louise or Jasper.

The ticket included the train journey, all meals and drinks on board, and one night’s accommodation in Kamloops halfway along the journey. Flights, and hotels and activities before or after the Rocky Mountaineer trip were not included.

The writer in a blue cardigan enjoying the stunning views on the Rocky Mountaineer train
Me enjoying the stunning views on the Rocky Mountaineer train

I travelled with my Canadian friend Leah, and we decided to do the route from Vancouver to Jasper, where I then stayed for four days (sadly Leah had to go back to work). We travelled at the very end of September, when the leaves were turning and we were lucky enough to witness the most glorious fall colours

During my two days on the train I took about a thousand photos, spoke to loads of my fellow guests and our hosts and read the onboard magazine, and I now feel fully qualified to give you the inside lowdown on what it’s really like to ride the Rocky Mountaineer train in Canada!

Read more: 4 Days In Jasper National Park: An Awesome Jasper Itinerary

The author and a friend getting ready to board the Rocky Mountaineer
Leah and I getting ready to board the Rocky Mountaineer

About this Rocky Mountaineer review

In this post I will…

  • Tell you all about my personal experience of travelling on the Canadian Rocky Mountaineer.
  • Explain the different Rocky Mountaineer Routes.
  • Explain the difference between the Rocky Mountaineer Gold Leaf and Silver Leaf service.
  • Reveal what the food is like on the Rocky Mountaineer (with photos!).
  • Talk about all the things and places you might see from the train.
  • Advise you when is the best time to do the Rocky Mountaineer.
  • Let you know whether or not I think the Rocky Mountaineer is worth it!

Ready? Let’s go!

Canada Rocky Mountaineer train waiting in the station in Vancouver
Canada Rocky Mountaineer train waiting in the station in Vancouver

What is the Rocky Mountaineer?

The Rocky Mountaineer is a luxurious train service that operates on three rail routes across British Columbia and Alberta in Canada, plus one route in Colorado and Utah in the USA.

Known for its breathtaking mountain scenery, gourmet meals, comfortable coaches and first-class service, the Rocky Mountaineer is not just a train journey or a way to get from A to B. It’s a travel experience in its own right.

That’s why the Rocky Mountaineer train has been awarded ‘World’s Leading Travel Experience by Train’ and ‘World’s Leading Luxury Train’ several times.

The luxury train began in 1990 as a single route through Western Canada and the Canadian Rockies before later expanding to three Canadian routes, using existing Canadian Pacific Railway and Canadian National Railway Company rail lines. The USA route through the American Southwest launched in 2021.

All four routes travel during daylight hours only, meaning that you’ll never miss a moment of the stunning landscapes as you glide past the soaring snowy peaks and plunging river canyons of the Rocky Mountains. 

Dramatic river and mountain views seen from the Rocky Mountaineer train in Canada
Dramatic river and mountain views seen from the Rocky Mountaineer train in Canada

Rocky Mountaineer facts at a glance

  • Founded: 1990
  • Number of routes: 4
  • Season: Trains run from mid-April to mid-October
  • Number of trains: The Rocky Mountaineer fleet includes:
    • 26 GoldLeaf Service coaches
    • 18 SilverLeaf Service coaches
    • 12 crew cars
    • Eight generator cars
    • Nine locomotives
    • Two lounge cars
  • Length of trains: Varies depending on passenger bookings. The longest ever train was 41 carriages, not counting the locomotives.
  • Distances travelled: 
    • Vancouver-Jasper: 560 miles (901 km) 
    • Vancouver-Banff: 595 miles (957 km) 
    • Denver-Moab: 258 miles (415 km)
  • Speed: The Rocky Mountaineer train travels at about 50 km/hr (30 mph) on average.
  • Number of passengers: The Rocky Mountaineer has carried over 2 million guests since it was founded.
  • Number of departures: On the Canadian routes, there are up to 12 departures per week during the season.
The Rocky Mountaineer train winding through the beautiful Canadian landscape
The Rocky Mountaineer train winding through the beautiful Canadian landscape

The Rocky Mountaineer train routes

There are four Rocky Mountaineer routes to choose from: three in Canada and one in the USA. Trains run in both directions on each route, so you can choose where you start and end your journey. 

First Passage to the West: Vancouver to Banff or Lake Louise

This route travels between Vancouver and Banff, with an overnight stop in Kamloops. It’s the most popular route and offers stunning views of the Canadian Rockies.

Journey Through the Clouds: Vancouver to Jasper (2 days)

This is the route I did. It travels between Vancouver and Jasper with an overnight stop in Kamloops, and offers views of the Fraser Canyon, the Cariboo Mountains, and the Rockies. The trains to Banff and Jasper travel together on the same route for the first day, and then they divide the train in Kamloops and the two halves of the train head off separately to their final destinations.

Read more: Jasper In Fall: 10 Reasons Autumn Is The Best Time To Visit

The train passing through glorious Fall colours on the way to Jasper Canada
The train passing through glorious Fall colours on the way to Jasper Canada

Rainforest to Gold Rush: Vancouver to Jasper (3 days)

Begins in Vancouver, travelling north to Whistler, then cutting through the historic Cariboo Gold Rush region to Quesnel for an overnight stop before heading on to Jasper. 

Rockies to Red Rocks: Moab to Denver

This route travels between Denver and Moab, Utah, with an overnight stop in Glenwood Springs, Colorado. You’ll get views of the Colorado Rockies, the Utah desert, and the Colorado River.

A passenger on the Rocky Mountaineer uses her phone to take a photo of a sparkling blue lake with mountains behind
Views of sparkling lakes and snow-capped peaks are included in the Rocky Mountaineer price

When does the Rocky Mountaineer run?

The Rocky Mountaineer isn’t like a normal train service, with a train (or many trains) running every day. Think of it more like a luxury 2 or 3 day tour, with departures just a few times a week depending on the season and demand. 

Trains only run between mid-April and mid-October, when the daylight hours are long enough to complete the journey without travelling in the dark and when the weather is good enough to do the trip through the mountains without disruptions.

No matter what route you do, the train always departs first thing in the morning, giving you the whole day to enjoy the spectacular mountain views before you stop for the night at your midway point, and then start again first thing the next morning. 

The Rocky Mountaineer in Vancouver station at sunrise, getting ready to leave
The Rocky Mountaineer in Vancouver station at sunrise, getting ready to leave

Rocky Mountaineer Service: SilverLeaf vs GoldLeaf 

The Rocky Mountaineer train has two service levels or classes: SilverLeaf and GoldLeaf. These are a bit like standard class and first class, except that SilverLeaf is already pretty first-class, and GoldLeaf is, well, even classier!

The Silverleaf carriages are like fancy first class on a normal train, with large, comfy seats, all forward-facing, huge picture windows, and meals and drinks served at your seat as they do on a plane. Except the food is much better than plane food! Two hosts will serve you and provide commentary along the route.

Leah and I travelled in GoldLeaf, which is the crème de la crème of luxury train travel: huge double-decker carriages with comfy, heated, reclining seats, an at-seat drinks and snacks service, full domed windows, a separate downstairs dining car, and an outside viewing platform so I could take photos without shooting through glass.

The Rocky Mountaineer train heads towards a cloud-covered mountain peak. This photo was taken from the front of my GoldLeaf carriage. You can see how much taller it is than the other cars.
This photo was taken from the front of my GoldLeaf carriage. You can see how much taller it is than the other cars.

To help you decide between GoldLeaf or SilverLeaf on the Rocky Mountaineer, here’s a quick comparison.

 GoldLeaf  SilverLeaf  
Carriage The GoldLeaf carriage has two floors, with spacious train seating (all forward-facing) on the top deck and the dining car downstairs. A single-level carriage with forward facing seats. Seats are still comfortable but not quite as spacious as GoldLeaf. 
Windows The carriage has huge domed windows that go into the ceiling. Being on the upper deck allows you to see over the tops of the trees.The carriage has huge windows for enjoying the views, but they’re not as big and you’re not as high up as in GoldLeaf.
MealsThree-course breakfast and lunch are served in the downstairs dining car. You order from an a la carte menu. Additional drinks and snacks are served at your seat.Meals and drinks are served at your seat, airline style. 
Outdoor AccessThe carriage has an outside viewing platform. There is a small, more enclosed viewing area between the cars. 
Inside a SilverLeaf carriage on the Rocky Mountaineer, so you can see the difference
Inside a SilverLeaf carriage on the Rocky Mountaineer, so you can see the difference

What to expect on the Canadian Rocky Mountaineer train

So now you know more about the Rocky Mountaineer train, the routes, and the different service levels, let me tell you about what actually happened when I took Canada’s Rocky Mountaineer from Vancouver to Jasper. 

Checking in for the Rocky Mountaineer trip

Once you’ve confirmed your booking via your tour operator or directly with Rocky Mountaineer, you’ll be sent a welcome pack with more information about the train, and some joining instructions. 

The most important thing to note is that you have to check in for the train. Ideally you should do this the day before – Rocky Mountaineer prefer this to avoid huge queues of people trying to check in just before departure.

However, if you’re not arriving until late, don’t worry. You can check in at the station just before you board, but you’ll need to allow extra time for this.

A sign directed me to the check in point at this hotel in Vancouver
A sign directed me to the check in point at this hotel in Vancouver

Check-in takes place in a few different hotels around your departure city (you’ll be told where these are in the joining instructions). As we were leaving from Vancouver, the check-in desks were in a few popular hotels in downtown Vancouver – usually the ones where the Rocky Mountaineer tour groups stay. 

I went to check-in at the Pan Pacific hotel in the afternoon the day before our trip. Leah arrived later and didn’t come with me, which was fine; we didn’t both need to be there. There was no queue – I simply showed my passport, received our boarding cards and luggage tags, and that was it. All very quick and painless. 

Vancouver waterfront with gleaming tower blocks and fall colours
Having to check in for the Rocky Mountaineer gave me an excuse to explore Vancouver waterfront

The Rocky Mountaineer station in Vancouver

The next morning we were told to be at the station around 6.45 or 7 am. Rocky Mountaineer does provide hotel pickups for a few of the main hotels that tour operators use, but we weren’t staying in one of those so we got a taxi. 

The Vancouver station is located at 1755 Cottrell St, which is about a 10-15-minute drive from central Vancouver. The station is exclusive to Rocky Mountaineer, so there’s no chance you’ll get on the wrong train!

Outside the Rocky Mountaineer Vancouver station: a large red brick and glass building with Rocky Mountaineer station written on the front
Outside the Rocky Mountaineer Vancouver station

When you arrive, greeters will welcome you and take your tagged luggage. Your suitcase travels separately by road and you won’t see it again until you arrive at your hotel in the evening, so make sure you bring everything you need for the day in your day pack. 

There was a bit of time to look around, have a cup of tea or coffee, and take pictures of the train, before we were called for boarding. 

We arrived at 7 am, with boarding starting at 7.30 am and the train due to depart at 8 am. Plenty of time to get that all-important photo in front of the Rocky Mountaineer train!

Inside The Luxury Rocky Mountaineer Train: My Full Review
A passenger takes a photo of the Rocky Mountaineer GoldLeaf cars

Inside the Rocky Mountaineer Gold Leaf Carriage

Our Gold Leaf car was everything we’d been promised.

On the top deck there are rows of large, comfortable seats which are all forward facing, heated, reclining, and fully adjustable, with plenty of leg room. There’s a tray table hidden in the armrest for you to put your book, phone, or cocktail.

At the back of the upper deck there’s a small kitchen area where the onboard hosts prepare drinks and snacks. 

And of course you have the windows that Rocky Mountaineer are so rightfully proud of – huge, domed panes of glass that stretch all the way up into the roof so no part of the epic mountain views is obscured. 

Huge domed windows and comfy seats in the Gold Leaf Rocky Mountaineer carriage
Huge domed windows and comfy seats in the Gold Leaf Rocky Mountaineer carriage

Downstairs are the dining room, two toilets, and an outside viewing platform. At the back of the dining room is a galley kitchen where the catering team prepare your breakfast and lunch.

The dining room is a smaller, elegant train compartment with tables that seat four people, with crisp white tablecloths and huge windows so you don’t miss any of the views while you’re eating. Seating is done at random so if you’re travelling solo or in a couple, you’ll get to meet some of your fellow travellers over a meal.

The stairs from the lower deck to the upper deck are spiral and quite narrow, but there is also a small lift for anyone with mobility issues. Make sure you take extra care while going up and down the stairs when the train is moving. 

Inside the dining room on the Rocky Mountaineer: six tables each seating four people
The GoldLeaf restaurant on the Rocky Mountaineer train

Travelling on the Rocky Mountaineer

Travel time every day is about ten hours, during which all you are required to do is relax and enjoy the views. 

Along our route from Vancouver to Kamloops, our hosts Kyra and Ivan gave us entertaining commentary, telling us interesting, moving or funny stories about the history of the railway and the key buildings, bridges, lakes, rivers and mountains we were passing. 

“The Rocky Mountaineer is the perfect example of ‘It’s not about the destination, it’s the journey,” Kyra tells us. “I see something new on every single trip!”

Kyra is a woman with red hair wearing a navy and blue Rocky Mountaineer uniform. She looks out of the window and speaks into a microphone.
Our Rocky Mountaineer host Kyra talks about the things we can see from the train

The train only travels at about 50 km/hr (30 mph) so there’s plenty of time to take in the scenery, and for key points of interest the driver slows to what they’ve dubbed ‘Kodak speed’ so you have plenty of time to take photos. 

In your seat pocket you’ll also find the Rocky Mountaineer’s free newspaper, Mile Post, which gives you a mile-by-mile breakdown of your entire route, with masses of information about the history of the Rocky Mountaineer and facts about the train and track. I found it fascinating and it’s well worth a read to really bring the journey to life. 

For much of the journey we were treated to a low volume playlist of popular classics ranging from Lean On Me and Country Roads to Suspicious Minds and American Pie. If you prefer to listen to your own music, bring headphones.

Our host Ivan delivers drinks to people's seats in the GoldLeaf carriage on the Rocky Mountaineer
Our host Ivan delivers drinks to people’s seats in the GoldLeaf carriage

Rocky Mountaineer Gold Leaf Service: food

One of the reasons why people pay so much money to travel on the Rocky Mountaineer train instead of by car or regular VIA rail train is the food. 

In both GoldLeaf and Silverleaf class you get top tier, restaurant quality food, with a menu designed by a top executive chef that features locally-sourced ingredients and dishes inspired by the regions the train travels though. 

Breakfast and lunch are included, but not dinner, which you can have when you arrive at your hotel in the evening (but they feed you so well during the day, you may not want it!).

In GoldLeaf, since the dining car is half the size of the upper deck you eat meals in two sittings, divided by row numbers. So on our first day the front half of the train took the early sitting and the back half ate later, and on the second day we switched. 

In SilverLeaf meals are served at your seat, so everyone eats at the same time, as you would on a plane.

Our breakfast consisted of a starter of fruit and pastries, followed by a choice of cooked mains including eggs benedict or avocado toast. Lunch was three courses with a light starter, a choice of mains cooked to order, and a choice of two desserts. 

On top of that, we could order wine, beer, cocktails or soft drinks any time we liked, and sweet or salty nibbles were on offer between meals.

Vegetarians, vegans, and people with other dietary requirements are also well catered for.

Enjoying lunch with a view in the Rocky Mountaineer restaurant car
Enjoying lunch with a view in the Rocky Mountaineer restaurant car

Rocky Mountaineer Gold Leaf Service: viewing platform 

At the back of the dining car is the viewing deck, which is where I spent a lot of my time! While I loved taking photos from the upper deck over the tops of the trees, the windows don’t open so I was always shooting through glass. 

On the outside deck you have no such issues, and it’s a joy to stand outside in the chill air and watch the scenery rushing by. There’s maybe enough space for 8-10 people to stand out there comfortably, so it did sometimes get a bit crowded when the host announced a point of interest and lots of people rushed outside. But for much of the trip there were only a few people outside at any one time. 

Some of my fellow passengers taking photos from the viewing platform
Some of my fellow passengers taking photos from the viewing platform

In SilverLeaf there is also a small viewing area between the carriages, but it’s much smaller with space for only 1-2 people at a time.

It can be chilly on the viewing platform, so don’t forget to bring a jacket, and a hairband to stop long hair flapping in your face.

The author looking out from the viewing platform with the wind blowing her long hair about
Next time I’ll bring a hairband!

What do you see from the Rocky Mountaineer?

The views from the Rocky Mountaineer as we travelled from Vancouver through the Rocky Mountains were every bit as incredible as everyone said they would be. 

As we left Vancouver we followed the path of the Fraser River for some time, passing train yards and lumber yards, graceful bridges and wide green farmland. Later we passed through dense pine and aspen forests before entering into the mountains, where we were treated to epic vistas with high rocky peaks and deep gorges running with vivid blue glacial rivers. 

A river with forests, fall colours and mountains behind in the Rocky Mountains Canada
Gorgeous Canadian Rocky Mountain views around every bend

All of this was made even more beautiful by the glorious fall colours, with the aspen trees in the fullest bloom of yellow and gold glowing against the blue of the sky. I think we got really lucky with the timing, because I cannot imagine these landscapes looking any more stunning, and I’d highly recommend doing this route in fall or autumn if you can.

Sometimes we passed areas where the trees were blackened by forest fires, and whenever we came to an important bridge, historic settlement or interesting feature, our host Kyra would tell us about it. 

Even though I had brought a book with me I never picked it up; I was never bored, and I must have taken over 1000 pictures!

Tempted? Search for Rocky Mountaineer tours here!

The Rocky Mountaineer train passes an icy green river and historic bridge
We passed dramatic gorges and historic bridges on our train to Jasper

Seeing wildlife on the Rocky Mountaineer

One of the things I was most excited about was the chance to see wildlife from the train. British Columbia is full of amazing animals including black and grizzly bears, elk and moose, and we’d be passing through plenty of pristine wilderness where wildlife roams freely, undisturbed by humans. 

All the Rocky Mountaineer train cars are connected by radio, so if someone in at the front of the train sees an animal, they can let the cars behind know so you can look out for it. 

This meant that a couple of times during our journey Kyra would announce ‘bear on the left!’ or ‘moose on the right!’ and we would all lean over to see. But in reality, usually we didn’t really know where we were supposed to be looking, and the train is moving fairly quickly so we missed it. 

We did get a glimpse of a black bear, and a bald eagle perched on a dead tree by the track, but only very briefly. So while you may see wildlife on the Rocky Mountaineer, it’s definitely not like being on an African safari!

The side of the train, the track, dark skies and a double rainbow on the Rocky Mountaineer
After a bit of rain, a double rainbow! I never got tired of taking photos on the Rocky Mountaineer

Overnight in Kamloops

At the end of the first day we arrived into our midway stopping point, Kamloops. Although I was keen to explore the town a little and find out more about it, we arrived quite late and it was already getting dark, so we didn’t really get a chance. 

Passengers are divided between different hotels; ours was the Delta Hotel by Marriott, a smart, modern hotel in the centre of town. It had really well-designed and comfortable rooms, a rooftop pool and a gym (which I really appreciated after a full day of sitting down). If you’re looking for somewhere to stay in Kamloops, I would definitely recommend it.

As you get off the train you’ll be handed an envelope with your hotel room number and key card. You’re already checked in and your bag should already be in the room, so all you have to do is get on the right bus and be whisked to your hotel where you can eat, relax, and be ready to get back on the same bus to bring you back to the train the next morning.

Our hotel in Kamloops, the Delta by Marriott
Our hotel in Kamloops, the Delta by Marriott

Day two on the Rocky Mountaineer Vancouver to Jasper

The next day you are bussed back to the train, ready to start the second leg of the journey.

You leave your bags in your room, where they’re collected by staff and loaded onto a van to be driven to your final destination (in our case, Jasper).

The second day was much the same as the first – more rushing rivers and lofty peaks, ice-blue lakes, forests of pine and aspen trees and of course a lot more time spent in the Rocky Mountaineer restaurant car eating delicious food! 

There did seem to be more trees on Day 2, so I spent more time on the top deck of the Gold Leaf carriage where I could see over the treetops. The view from the downstairs viewing platform was obscured by dense tree trunks crowding in on both sides for much of Day 2, and I ended up taking fewer photos as the landscapes were less varied than they had been on Day 1.

Towards the end of the day we finally crossed into Alberta province and were able to see snow-capped peaks including the stunning Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, before we finally arrived into Jasper.

A passenger takes a photo of Mount Robson, slightly covered in cloud
A passenger takes a photo of Mount Robson, slightly covered in cloud

Arrival into Jasper 

You’ll reach your final destination – whether Banff, Jasper, Lake Louise or Vancouver, at the end of a long Day Two. As before, you’ll be told which bus to get on, and that bus will drop you off at your hotel or drop-off point.

Depending on where you’re staying, you’ll either get a direct hotel drop off point or be taken to somewhere nearby. Your luggage will be already loaded on your bus, so you just need to remember to grab it when you disembark.

First view of the very pretty town of Jasper in the Canadian Rockies
First view of the very pretty town of Jasper in the Canadian Rockies

What to pack for the Rocky Mountaineer

Remember that you won’t have your suitcase with you on the train, so you need to bring everything you might want for the day in your hand luggage. 

However, don’t forget there are no overhead bins or onboard storage, so everything you bring needs to go at your feet. If you bring too big a bag, you’ll have no leg room!

You’re only on the train during the day so you don’t need to bring much, but here are some of the things you shouldn’t forget:

  • Sunglasses.
  • A warm jacket if you plan to spend much time on the outdoor viewing platform.
  • If you have long hair, bring a hairband to tie it back when you go outside.
  • A book, movies, or other entertainment. Of course it’s all about the views, but two full days is still a long time to sit and look out of the window.
  • Headphones.
  • Your camera!
  • Phone or camera battery chargers.
  • Any medication you may need.
  • Your passport, travel documents and wallet.
Passengers in the Rocky Mountaineer dining car
Dress code on the Rocky Mountaineer is casual, and don’t forget your phone charger!

The Canada Rocky Mountaineer, some FAQs

What is the Rocky Mountaineer train price?

Prices vary based on route, season, and service level (SilverLeaf or GoldLeaf). For the two-day, GoldLeaf Rocky Mountain Canada trip that I did, the price starts from CAD 2924 per person (US$ 2164 or £1706).

What is the best month to take the Rocky Mountaineer?

June and July are a great time to travel for wildflowers, long days and mild temperatures. However, September and October offer stunning fall foliage. I travelled at the very end of September when the leaves were gold and amber and it made for perfect photography. However if you want to get cheaper deals, shoulder seasons (May & September) might be cheaper.

Which is the most scenic Rocky Mountaineer route?

Of course this is subjective. All the routes offer stunning scenery; there really isn’t a bad one. I loved my trip from Vancouver to Jasper, though I have heard that the Vancouver to Banff route has fewer trees and even more spectacular mountain views on the second day.

The Rocky Mountaineer train curves round a bend alongside a river with mountains beyond
The Rocky Mountaineer route through the mountains is truly spectacular

How many days does it take to do the Rocky Mountaineer?

Three of the routes take 2 days, with an overnight stop in the middle. Rainforest to Gold Rush: Vancouver to Jasper takes 3 days.

Is Rocky Mountaineer a round trip?

A typical ticket is one-way but of course you can buy a return if you want to. Most people do the trip in one direction and then travel onwards, or head back by road or regular VIA rail train. There is also a tour option where you get the Rocky Mountaineer from Vancouver to Jasper, then take a bus to Banff, and catch the train back again from Banff to Vancouver.

Is the Rocky Mountaineer good for children?

Children are welcome, though the vast majority of passengers are older adults. Children must be old enough to be able to sit quietly by themselves and there are no seatbelts to secure child seats. Remember that each day could involve 10-12 hours sitting on a train, so this probably isn’t a trip for young children or anyone who gets easily bored sitting still for long periods.

Can I bring my dog on the Rocky Mountaineer train Canada?

Service and support dogs are allowed, but all other pets are banned, sorry!

Two women look out of the window on the Rocky Mountaineer train in Canada
From the top deck of the GoldLeaf car you can see over the top of the rest of the train

Are drinks free on Rocky Mountaineer?

Yes, both non-alcoholic and alcoholic drinks are served onboard, with a range of local Canadian wines, beers and spirits to choose from. In both GoldLeaf and SilverLeaf Service everything is included, including alcohol. 

Is there a dress code for the Rocky Mountaineer?

Not at all. Although the Rocky Mountaineer is a luxury train, there’s no fancy dress code and you can wear what you like (as long as it’s decent and appropriate). In fact you’re advised to dress comfortably as you’ll be sitting on the train for two days. The carriages are warm so you won’t need loads of layers, but do bring a jacket for when you want to go outside. 

Is there Wifi on the Rocky Mountaineer?

No, there’s no WiFi on the Rocky Mountaineer. The emphasis is on relaxing and enjoying the views, not having your head down in TikTok or Instagram. If you need to be connected at all times, the Rocky Mountaineer isn’t for you.

Can you do a Rocky Mountaineer tour?

Yes! Several tour companies offer tours that allow you to incorporate the Rocky Mountaineer journey as part of a bigger tour around Alberta and British Columbia. This is a great way to not just do the train but also see some of the highlights of the region while you’re there.

The Canada Rocky Mountaineer passes alongside a clear blue lake
Every moment brought more stunning views like this. I was never bored!

Do you sleep on the Rocky Mountaineer?

All the routes involve at least one overnight stop, but you sleep in a hotel. The Rocky Mountaineer is not a sleeper train and you don’t sleep on the train itself. 

Are seats assigned on the Rocky Mountaineer?

Seats are assigned upon booking and cannot be changed. If you have particular preferences make sure you request them when you book.

Which is the best side of the train to sit on?

While Rocky Mountaineer says both sides offer great views, overall I thought my eastbound trip from Vancouver to Jasper possibly had more stunning lakes and panoramas on the right hand side. Since you can’t pick seats, try requesting your preferred side through your agent or the online form. Going westbound? Switch to the left! But remember, the expansive windows guarantee amazing views regardless of your seat.

A woman takes a photo on her phone of the view from the Rocky Mountaineer GoldLeaf car
A river and forest seen on the right hand side of the train going east

How to get from Vancouver to Jasper or Banff without using the Rocky Mountaineer train

The Rocky Mountaineer is certainly the easiest, most comfortable (and most expensive) way to get from Vancouver to Jasper or Banff through the Canadian Rockies, but of course it’s not the only way. The other options you have are:

By bus: Rider Express operates buses between Vancouver and Calgary that stop in Banff. They take about 13 hours and cost about CAD 162 one-way.

By car: Of course you can rent a car and drive yourself. The route from Vancouver through the mountains is said to be stunning and would take you about 9 hours to Jasper or 9.5 hours to Banff. Of course if you want to keep stopping for photos it will take a lot longer!

By train: VIA Rail operates a train between Vancouver and Jasper. It takes 20 hours without stopping, and you can choose between standard, business and sleeper class. Rocky Mountaineer is the only train service that goes all the way to Banff, so if you want to get there by VIA Rail you’d need to take the train to Jasper and then get a bus.

By plane: You can also fly to Edmonton or Calgary (about 1.5 hours flying time), and then get a bus to Jasper or Banff.

Jasper as seen from the cable car station, with the Rocky Mountains behind
The little town of Jasper is stunning and should definitely be added to your Canada bucket list

Who is the Rocky Mountaineer for?

Basically, anyone who doesn’t want to do any of the longer and more complicated routes above, and can afford it!

Anecdotally, passengers on the Rocky Mountaineer (at least when I travelled) were in their 50s and older, and mostly couples. Leah and I (in our early 40s) were among the youngest on the train. There were a few solo travellers, and a couple of families travelling with children in their teens or early 20s.

I wouldn’t recommend it for children, as it involves sitting for two days straight without any activities, and I imagine most kids will get bored pretty quickly and then start annoying the other passengers.

I also don’t recommend it for adults who don’t like sitting still. And I include myself in that! I did find 10 hours a day, for two days in a row, a long time to be sitting on transport. I filled the time by taking a million photos, so I was OK, but I was also quite frustrated that I couldn’t stop or get off the train to get better angles.

If there is a next time, I’d love to do the trip by car, probably still over two days with an overnight in Kamloops, and plenty of time to stop for photos.

But if you enjoy luxury travel, amazing food, stunning views, and travelling in comfort without having to do any planning, navigating or driving, then the Rocky Mountaineer is for you!

The author relaxing on the Rocky Mountaineer train with a cocktail in hand
You can’t enjoy a Caesar cocktail while you travel if you decide to drive through the Rocky Mountains

Is the Rocky Mountaineer worth it?

All the Rocky Mountaineer reviews I read before I travelled had it right: the Rocky Mountaineer really is the luxury train journey of a lifetime. Yes it’s expensive, but as always with these things, you get what you pay for. And the food, comfort, views and service are second to none.

Whether or not it’s ‘worth it’ depends on your budget and how much value you put in luxury over price. You also have to remember that the Rocky Mountaineer trip is not just a way of getting from A to B, it’s a travel experience in its own right.

There are plenty of other ways you can spend that money and amazing trips you can do all over the world, but if you love slow travel and relaxing with ever-changing, glorious views outside the window, while you sit with a cocktail and a good friend or partner by your side, then yes you’ll probably think it’s worth it.

A passenger takes a photo from the Rocky Mountaineer outside deck
A passenger takes a photo from the Rocky Mountaineer outside deck

My five top tips for having the best time on the Rocky Mountaineer 

  1. Choose Gold Leaf: Go big or go home, right? If you’re going to do it, do it properly and get the GoldLeaf service. I really don’t think you’ll regret it.
  2. Don’t bring snacks: I always want to buy snacks for a plane ride or long train journey, and then I usually eat them in the first half hour! There’s so much food on Rocky Mountaineer, you can definitely leave the snacks at home.
  3. Sit down to pee: The hosts delicately announce this when you board but some of the men clearly weren’t listening. For guys, it seems trying to pee standing up on a moving train is a challenge. For the comfort of your fellow passengers, please sit down.
  4. Read Mile Post, the in-flight newspaper: This free guide contains detailed information and story about the route and the things you’ll be passing, and really brings the journey to life.
  5. Don’t bring too much: With no storage or overhead bins, your bag needs to fit at your feet. Keep it small. You really don’t need much anyway.
The author looking out of the window on the Rocky Mountaineer luxury train
There is plenty of legroom on the train, but not if you have a huge bag at your feet

Where to stay before or after your Rocky Mountaineer tour

Where to stay in Vancouver before your Rocky Mountaineer trip

Listel Hotel: This is where I stayed. It’s a charming boutique art hotel, with comfortable rooms, a rooftop garden, and on-site restaurant. It’s located in the historic Gastown district, and is only a short walk from beautiful Stanley Park.

Pan Pacific Vancouver: This contemporary hotel offers stunning panoramic views of the city and harbor, plus elegant rooms, an outdoor pool, and high-end dining. It’s located in the heart of downtown Vancouver, close to many popular attractions.

My room in the Listel Hotel in Vancouver
My room in the Listel Hotel in Vancouver

Where to stay in Jasper after your Rocky Mountaineer journey

Bear Hill LodgeThis is where I stayed. This rustic lodge offers a true Canadian Rockies experience with log cabins and cozy fireplaces, perfect for those seeking a more traditional stay.

Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge: Immerse yourself in luxury and breathtaking mountain views at the iconic Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. This grand hotel on the outskirts of town offers elegant rooms, a world-class spa, and award-winning dining.

My cute cabin at Bear Hill Lodge in Jasper
My cute cabin at Bear Hill Lodge in Jasper

Where to stay in Banff after the Rocky Mountaineer tour

Banff Rocky Mountain Resort: This mid-range hotel offers a great balance of value and comfort, with spacious rooms, friendly service, and a convenient location just steps away from Banff Avenue.

Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel: This luxury castle-like hotel offers stunning views of the Bow River valley, elegant accommodations, and world-class service.

The author standing on the viewing platform of the Rocky Mountaineer. I loved my trip on this Canadian luxury train.
I loved my trip on the Canadian luxury train Rocky Mountaineer
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My favourite travel tools and brands

To help you organise your trip, here’s a short list of some of the brands and tools I use over and over again when I’m planning my travels. You can see more on my Travel Resources page.

  • Booking.com: A huge range of hotels to choose from, often with free cancellation. If you book hotels regularly you can earn discounts. I’m on Genius Level 3 which gets me 20% off!
  • Expedia: Another great place to find hotels and Expedia also sell flights, car hire, and loads more all in one place.
  • Skyscanner: The only place I ever go to search for flights and compare prices.
  • Flight Centre: Booking a more complicated route? Let Flight Centre organise it for you (and deal with the drama when something goes wrong).
  • Priority Pass: I love having access to 1600+ airport lounges when I fly, allowing me to enjoy my time at the airport. Buy through my link and you get up to 20% off!
  • Airalo: Say goodbye to ridiculous mobile roaming charges. Did you know you can now buy ane-SIM, install it in your phone before you leave home, and then use data abroad at local prices? Game changer. Get US$3 credit with code BELLA5735.
  • TourRadar: If you prefer group travel and organised tours, TourRadar has a huge range of fantastic tours from respected operators. They’re very helpful and have 4.5 stars on TrustPilot.
  • Viator: Part of the TripAdvisor brand, Viator is another great place to search for group adventures and day trips.
  • GetYourGuide: A great place to find local tours and day trips in your destination.
  • Wex Photo Video: The UK’s best camera gear store.
  • Ellis Brigham: Looking for good quality backpacks, travel clothes and other gear? Ellis Brigham is where I buy almost all of mine.
  • Rentalcars.com: Part of the Booking.com family and the world’s largest online car rental service, with 24/7 customer service.
  • World Nomads Travel Insurance: I never ever travel without travel insurance and nor should you!

Where to next?

If you enjoyed this post, why not try some of my other related posts?

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Bella is a multi-award-winning travel writer, wildlife photographer and science and history documentary director from London. Among many awards and nominations she won Blogger of the Year at the British Guild of Travel Writers’ Awards 2023 and Best Photography at the Travel Media Awards 2020. Her work has been published by National Geographic, Wanderlust, and BBC Travel among others. Her films have been shown around the world including on the BBC, Discovery and PBS.