Kilimanjaro Summit Night: Lemosho Route Day 7


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BELLA FALK

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Kilimanjaro Summit Night: Lemosho Route Day 7
Seen from a distance: the Mount Kilimanjaro Summit

This is the seventh part of my day-by-day account of what it was like to climb Mount Kilimanjaro’s Lemosho Route, in which I explain exactly what happens on the dreaded Kilimanjaro Summit Night. 

If you missed the other parts of my Lemosho Route review, you can catch up with the previous day at Base Camp | Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 6.

Today: the moment we’d all been waiting for. On to Uhuru Peak and the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro!

Breakfast on Kilimanjaro Summit Night
Breakfast on Kilimanjaro Summit Night

What happens on Kilimanjaro summit day

Here’s how Kilimanjaro summit day (though it starts at night) works: after arriving at Base Camp on the previous afternoon you get some time to sleep before being woken again at about 11 pm.

After a quick meal/refuel, you start your climb to the summit. It should take about 7 hours of continuous slow walking to reach Stella Point, the lower of Kili’s two peaks, and then a further hour to get to Uhuru Peak at 5895 m, the true summit of Kilimanjaro.

Once you’ve celebrated and taken your Kilimanjaro summit photos to impress all your friends, you head back down to Base Camp. There you get a chance to rest and eat, and then it’s time to pack up your stuff and continue your descent all the way to the camp where you’ll spend your last night on Kilimanjaro.

A very long day with a total of about 14 hours of walking! Here’s what it was like, step by tired step.

Getting ready to leave for the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro
Getting ready to leave for summit night Kilimanjaro

Preparing for the Kilimanjaro summit hike

If you think it’s hard having to wake up at 4 am to catch a flight to go on holiday, imagine what it’s like being woken at 11 pm after about three hours of light dozing to climb a mountain.

The only good thing I can say about it is that I’m delighted it’s something I will never have to do again!

Other things I did not enjoy about getting ready to depart on Kilimanjaro Summit Night:

  1. Being force-fed breakfast of bread and porridge (carb-loading, anyone?) at 11.30 pm; and
  2. The faffing. Oh God, the FAFFING!!

In general, our group had been pretty good about being ready to go on time, but a combination of sleep deprivation, darkness, and (probably) unwillingness to leave the relative comfort of the camp meant that at least half the group were hopelessly disorganised.

We were supposed to be ready to hit the Kilimanjaro Summit Night trail at midnight, and a few of us were.

But then we stood. And waited. And waited. While the rest ambled around, slowly finished breakfast, or looked for their missing gloves and head torches. Added and removed layers. Untied and retied boots. Had one last trip to the toilet tent. And on it went. For half an hour!

Come on, lads, this mountain ain’t gonna climb itself!

Kilimanjaro Summit Night: starting the climb
Kilimanjaro Summit Night: starting the climb

Getting started on Kilimanjaro Summit Night

But eventually everyone had faffed until there was no more faffing to be done, and off we set. Same as all the other days on the Lemosho Route, one foot in front of the other, slow plodding, step by step, ever onwards and upwards.

But curiously, although we were now higher than we’d been before, I didn’t find it much of a physical challenge. Sure, I was a little out of puff, but not uncomfortable. Six days of acclimatisation had clearly done the job.

Rather, I found it a mental challenge. The frustration of the slow pace, and the boredom of the constant plodding with nothing to look at but the feet of the person in front of you, were far harder for me to deal with than any physical issues.

Here’s a little video of us on Kilimanjaro Summit Night so you can get a sense of what it was like:

Video showing the slow pace of climbing on Kilimanjaro summit night

The Kilimanjaro summit trail

The going was fairly solid underfoot. I’d expected it to be loose scree and therefore quite slippery, but it was pretty firm and my boots held up well.  In fact apart from the boredom the only real problem I had to begin with was being too hot! 

It was a relatively mild night, with no wind chill, and my rented down jacket was extremely warm. So with all those extra layers underneath I soon started cooking, and had to make use of the first couple of rest stops to shed them.

I also took advantage of one break to prop my camera on a convenient rock and take this photo of the path to the Kilimanjaro summit with the stunning clear night sky above.

Headtorches lighting the way to Uhuru Peak, the summit of Kilimanjaro
Headtorches lighting the way to Uhuru Peak, the summit of Kilimanjaro

The challenge of reaching the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro

So it was all going remarkably well, and then, a few hours in, at around 5500 m, something happened.

We’d stopped for yet another rest, and just as everyone was getting ready to go again I was suddenly overcome with a wave of nausea so strong that I couldn’t stand up.

I felt faint, cold and dizzy, and really, really sick (although I didn’t actually throw up). I had to sit with my head between my knees and try to breathe, all the while gripped with fear that this was the beginning of the end.  

Of course that’s when the anxiety sets in. They say altitude can get anyone, regardless of age or fitness, so what if it was about to get me after all?  

What if all my charging around with the camera, and my confidence, had been ill-advised? What if after all those days of being at the front of the group, getting frustrated with the slow pace, it was finally going to be ME that crumbled and failed?

Slowly and steadily climbing towards Uhuru Peak, the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro
Slowly and steadily climbing towards Uhuru Peak, the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro

But the nausea eventually subsided and after putting layers back on I was able to carry on. As I got going, I felt better… until we stopped again, when the same thing happened. More weakness, more nausea, more sitting, head down, trying to breathe.

And this time it wasn’t just me. As people were getting stuck into their snacks and water another member of the group suddenly collapsed.

There was a momentary panic as guides swarmed round her, calling for hand warmers and spare layers to help warm her up.

Having heard so many horror stories about what altitude sickness can do to you it was a pretty fraught moment, but she soon recovered and was able to carry on.  

But what had become very clear, for me at least, was that stopping meant getting cold, and getting cold was Not Good.

Climbing Kilimanjaro at night: our group hiking towards Uhuru Peak
Climbing Kilimanjaro at night

So my friend and I decided to stop stopping. We didn’t need to rest: we could both quite happily maintain that slow and steady plod pretty much indefinitely.  

And fortunately the African Walking Company had provided one guide for every two people, to allow for people to walk at different paces, or to look after those that couldn’t make it.

So we are able to head off ahead with our lovely guide Stratton, and leave the rest of the group behind to go at their own pace.

Sunrise on Mount Kilimanjaro

And soon, after a few more hours of plodding uphill, the sun started to come up, and it was just about the Best Thing Ever.

When that orange glow began warming up the sky, it lifted my spirits like nothing else. Finally, I knew the end was in sight.

Kilimanjaro Summit Night: Sunrise behind Mawenzi peak
Sunrise on Kilimanjaro with Mawenzi peak in the foreground

I had no idea how long we’d been walking for, but if the sun was coming up that had to mean we’d broken the back of the night.

From here it was only going to get lighter, and warmer. Finally we could look around and see where we were going, and enjoy the view rather than just staring into darkness.

Kilimanjaro Summit Night: sunrise over the valley
Sunrise on Kilimanjaro lifted my spirits enormously

That’s not to say the rest of the climb was easy. In fact I’d say the last 250m of vertical ascent was quite a struggle.

My legs, feet and back were quite sore after hours of non-stop walking, and I was extremely weary to say the least!

But warmed by the sun, and with the end within our grasp, we were spurred on with renewed determination.

Kilimanjaro Summit Night: climbing towards Stella Point
The sun made the last hike towards Kili summit a bit easier, but it was still hard work!

Reaching Stella Point on Mount Kilimanjaro

Making it to Stella Point was probably the best moment of the entire trip.  

Although it’s not quite the top, from Stella Point it’s only another hour or so of very gentle uphill to reach Uhuru Peak, the true Kilimanjaro peak.

Get to Stella Point in one piece, and you know you’re definitely going to make it. The relief and elation are pretty intense!

Stella Point, Mount Kilimanjaro
Stella Point on Mount Kilimanjaro

So after a brief pause at Stella Point to take a photo and enjoy the warm feeling of achievement, we pushed on – the final assault on Uhuru Peak and the Kilimanjaro summit itself!

Looking down into the crater of Mount Kilimanjaro
Looking down into the crater of Mount Kilimanjaro

The path from Stella Point to Uhuru Peak takes you along the crater rim.  

On one side you can look down into what used to be Kibo crater while on the other you can clearly see what remains of Kilimanjaro’s glaciers (now sadly just a fraction of their former selves).  

And far off in the distance, the ever-present Mount Meru.

The last remaining bits of glacier at the top of Mount Kilimanjaro
The last remaining bits of glacier at the top of Mount Kilimanjaro

Uhuru Peak: the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro

Little by little, slowly slowly, we gained ground.

As we progressed, we passed others on their way back: climbers who had made it to Uhuru Peak and were starting their descent. They offered words of encouragement and reassured us that we didn’t have far to go.

Still, it was tough, and at one point my friend started retching and we had to stop so she could recover.

But at around 0820 am, after about eight hours of climbing, we made it to Uhuru Peak and the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro! You might remember in my post about Day One that I mentioned jumping. Well, here it is…

The obligatory Uhuru Peak Kilimanjaro photo
Me, finally getting that obligatory Kilimanjaro summit photo at Uhuru Peak

How I felt about reaching the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro

And now for a confession: in spite of how it looks in the photo, I really didn’t feel at all joyful on reaching the top.

Maybe it was tiredness, maybe it was the prospect of many more hours of descent still to come, but reaching Uhuru Peak was not the thrilling achievement I expected it to be.

After nine months of planning and seven days of walking, it was, if anything, a massive anti-climax.

Probably not helped by the crowd of people all queueing for their turn to take their Kilimanjaro summit photos at the Uhuru Peak sign.

Climbers queueing to get the official photo at the summit of Mount Kililmanjaro
Climbers queueing to get their Kilimanjaro summit photos

It was really a case of get in, take your photo, get out of the way for the next person. Which was a shame as it rather put a dampener on the experience of having made it to the top.

But I guess if you choose to do the climb in the dry season when the weather is at its best, you have to be prepared to deal with the crowds. And the weather certainly did us proud.  Look at that blue sky!

We waited at the top for a while, and gradually other members of our group arrived. All apart from one person made it, which was impressively good going, especially since some of them had been seriously struggling. They must have had to dig down into every last reserve of determination and strength to keep pushing all the way to the top!

Climbers beginning the descent of Kilimanjaro
Climbers beginning the descent of Kilimanjaro

Starting our descent of Kilimanjaro

But we couldn’t stay long – we still had an awful lot more walking to do – so we began our descent.

Much of the path was deep, loose scree, so we were able to progress fairly quickly, bouncing down and digging our heels in so that the soft surface cushioned each step. Having carried my walking poles and barely used them for a week, this was where they finally came in handy, helping me to balance and avoid falling over.

And after another three hours or so, shaky-legged, achy-footed, sore-backed, and VERY dusty, we made it back to Base Camp.

The rest of the day is pretty much a blur. We had a couple of hours downtime at Base Camp while we waited for the remainder of the group to return, and then after lunch it was another 3 hours walking to get down to our camp for the night.

In all, we’d done about 14 hours of walking and were very much in need of a wash and a lie down.  I’m not a huge fan of camping, but I don’t think I’ve ever been so happy to see a tent!

To find out how we got on on the final day, head over to Descent | Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route 8.

High Camp, our final campsite
High Camp, our final campsite before descending Kilimanjaro

Kilimanjaro summit night: some FAQs

How high is the summit of Kilimanjaro

The summit of Mount Kilimanjaro, Uhuru Peak, stands at 5,895 meters (19,341 feet) above sea level. This makes it the highest point in Africa and the highest free-standing mountain in the world (meaning it’s not part of a mountain range as it’s actually an extinct volcano).

Why do you summit Kilimanjaro at night?

Climbers typically attempt the summit of Kilimanjaro at night for four main reasons:

Lower temperatures: During the day, the sun can heat the slopes of Kilimanjaro, making the climb more strenuous and potentially causing altitude sickness due to thinner air at higher altitudes. Summiting at night allows climbers to experience cooler temperatures, making the climb physically easier.

Clearer skies: Night skies above Kilimanjaro are often clearer due to less wind. This allows climbers to witness spectacular views of the stars and sunrise from the summit, adding to the unforgettable experience.

Reaching the summit for sunrise: By starting the summit push at night, climbers reach the peak just as the sun rises, offering breathtaking views and a sense of accomplishment as you witness the start of a new day.

The long descent: Once you’ve summited, you still have to walk all the way back down. Starting your summit climb at night allows enough time the next day to get down to the final campsite.

How hard is summit night on Kilimanjaro?

Hard! Of course it depends on your personal levels of fitness, your tolerance for altitude, how well you’ve acclimatised, and how you’ve coped with the previous days of hiking.

But yes, there’s no sugarcoating it: reaching Kilimanjaro summit is hard. The terrain is steep and can be slippery underfoot, it’s dark and cold, and you are at extremely high altitude. You may also be tired, sleep deprived, and mentally exhausted.

But that’s why yous signed up, right? You don’t want it to be too easy. And personally, although it was hard, it wasn’t actually as terrible as I feared it would be.

Dusty boots after climbing Kilimanjaro
Blue boots and black trousers, believe it or not!

How long does it take to reach Kilimanjaro summit?

In terms of days of hiking – it depends if you do the 6 day, 7 day, or 8 day route. I did the 8-day Lemosho Route, which meant we reached the summit on the morning of Day 7.

In terms of hours of walking on summit night, we left Base Camp at a little after midnight, and I reached Uhuru Peak at 08.20 am – so a little over eight hours of walking. Some people got there a bit quicker and others were a fair bit slower.

What do you wear to summit night Kilimanjaro?

I wore the same stuff I’d been wearing the whole trip, with the addition of a rented heavy down jacket which was provided by my tour company.

That meant I was wearing thermal baselayer leggings and long sleeved top, hiking trousers, a fleece mid layer, light down jacket, heavy outer down jacket (which I was too hot in most of the time), my trusty hiking boots, a hat, gloves and head-torch.

You can see my complete Kilimanjaro packing list here.

Is Kilimanjaro summit harder than Everest summit?

No, absolutely not. Kilimanjaro is a very doable trek which anyone with a reasonable level of fitness, stamina and determination can achieve.

Mount Everest is a technical climb requiring advanced mountaineering skills and specialist equipment, to a terrifying hight of 8,848 meters (29,029 ft). At such extreme altitudes, even healthy individuals can experience severe health complications, and people die on Everest all the time. While I had no trouble reaching the Kili summit, there’s no way I’d ever attempt Everest, and unless you’re a very experience proper mountain climber, nor should you.

Kilimanjaro campsite
These tents seemed like a feather bed after the night we’d had

Watch the Mount Kilimanjaro video

If you want to see what it was really like to climb the Lemosho route and reach Uhuru Peak and the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro, here’s a little video I made of the experience.

Want to see more of my photography or travel writing? Have comments or questions? Come follow me on Instagram, Threads or Bluesky and share your thoughts!

My favourite travel tools and brands

To help you organise your trip, here’s a short list of some of the brands and tools I use over and over again when I’m planning my travels. You can see more on my Travel Resources page.

  • Booking.com: A huge range of hotels to choose from, often with free cancellation. If you book hotels regularly you can earn discounts. I’m on Genius Level 3 which gets me 20% off!
  • Expedia: Another great place to find hotels and Expedia also sell flights, car hire, and loads more all in one place.
  • Skyscanner: The only place I ever go to search for flights and compare prices.
  • Flight Centre: Booking a more complicated route? Let Flight Centre organise it for you (and deal with the drama when something goes wrong).
  • Priority Pass: I love having access to 1600+ airport lounges when I fly, allowing me to enjoy my time at the airport. Buy through my link and you get up to 20% off!
  • Airalo: Say goodbye to ridiculous mobile roaming charges. Did you know you can now buy ane-SIM, install it in your phone before you leave home, and then use data abroad at local prices? Game changer. Get US$3 credit with code BELLA5735.
  • TourRadar: If you prefer group travel and organised tours, TourRadar has a huge range of fantastic tours from respected operators. They’re very helpful and have 4.5 stars on TrustPilot.
  • Viator: Part of the TripAdvisor brand, Viator is another great place to search for group adventures and day trips.
  • GetYourGuide: A great place to find local tours and day trips in your destination.
  • Wex Photo Video: The UK’s best camera gear store.
  • Ellis Brigham: Looking for good quality backpacks, travel clothes and other gear? Ellis Brigham is where I buy almost all of mine.
  • Rentalcars.com: Part of the Booking.com family and the world’s largest online car rental service, with 24/7 customer service.
  • World Nomads Travel Insurance: I never ever travel without travel insurance and nor should you!

Where to next?

If you liked this summit night Kilimanjaro post, why not try…

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Bella is a multi-award-winning travel writer, wildlife photographer and science and history documentary director from London. Among many awards and nominations she won Blogger of the Year at the British Guild of Travel Writers’ Awards 2023 and Best Photography at the Travel Media Awards 2020. Her work has been published by National Geographic, Wanderlust, and BBC Travel among others. Her films have been shown around the world including on the BBC, Discovery and PBS.