13 Things To Do In Saffron Walden: A Local’s Complete Guide

Hello! Bella here – the writer and creator of Passport & Pixels.

Normally I write every article on this site myself, and as you’ll see if you click around, they’re usually about my travels to far-flung destinations around the globe.

But for a while I’ve wanted to publish some helpful guides to places closer to home.

Although I live in London now, I was actually born near Saffron Walden and went to school there. My lovely mum, Vivian, still lives in the town, so I visit fairly regularly. All the photos in this post were taken by me.

So this gave me the genius idea to hand over this post to her. While I might know the town quite well, who better to write a guide to things to do in Saffron Walden than a local resident who has lived there for nearly 20 years?!

So without further ado, over to Vivian for her insider’s guide to Saffron Walden.

Things to do in Saffron Walden: An insider’s guide

By Vivian Falk

If you’d never heard of Saffron Walden before, don’t feel bad. It’s been a very well-kept secret for many years.

Though that secret might be about to get out. Saffron Walden was recently named the Best Place to Live in the UK by the Sunday Times. So get your skates on and come visit us before everyone else catches on!

I’ve lived in this part of Essex for the last 49 years, and in the market town of Saffron Walden itself for the last 19 years. So as you can guess, I know it very well and love it even more.

I’m pretty involved in the town, currently serving as Churchwarden and also involved in other local charities. My children (Bella’s note: that includes me!) were brought up in the area and attended one of the local schools. 

I don’t own a business in the town, so have no particular axe to grind or anything to sell.

I just want to share my love of the town and its surrounding villages because if you’re in the area, or looking for a great day trip from London or Cambridge, you’d be missing out if you didn’t come to Saffron Walden.

Where is Saffron Walden?

Saffron Walden is tucked into the top left hand corner of northwest Essex, fifteen miles south of Cambridge. It’s right on the border with Hertfordshire and Cambridgeshire, and not far from Suffolk.

It’s an easy train ride from London, making it an excellent choice for a weekend break or day trip from London.

If you’re pushed for time, you can also do this day trip from London that includes Saffron Walden, Cambridge, and the cute village of Thaxted.

Saffron Walden is also only about 15 miles from Stansted Airport, so could make the perfect stop if you’re flying into or out of Stansted.

This bit of Essex is very different from the south of the county, the part people tend to think of when they think of Essex at all. When you say ‘Essex’, you might think of the stereotypical ‘Essex lads’ and ‘Essex girls’: fake tans and bad behaviour.

But here in the northwest of the county we have rolling countryside, with pretty villages containing pastel-shaded thatched cottages and picturesque pubs, and at its heart, the medieval market town of Saffron Walden.

A brief history of Saffron Walden: the historic market town

Saffron Walden dates back to the 11^th century and probably earlier. Walden Castle was built in 1141 by Geoffrey de Mandeville, 1^st Earl of Essex; today only the first two storeys of the keep remain. 

In 1141 the town was granted a charter to hold a market, which still takes place every Tuesday and Saturday – making it one of the longest-running historical markets in England and one of the top reasons to visit Saffron Walden.

Saffron Walden started life as simply ‘Walden’, later becoming ‘Chipping Walden’ to reflect its status as a market town. Then in the fifteenth century the saffron crocus started to be grown extensively in the area as a yellow dye for the wool trade, and in 1514 Henry VIII granted a charter changing the name of the town to Saffron Walden.

In the 17^th Century the wool trade lost its importance and the town started to decline. It wasn’t a particularly fashionable place in the 18^th century, which has meant that its medieval heart has never been redeveloped.

In the 19^th century, the Quakers moved in and largely took over the town. Many of the buildings you can see today – including the town hall, library (formerly the Corn Exchange) and former hospital (now the district council offices) – were the work of leading Quaker and town benefactor George Stacey Gibson and his family.

Saffron Walden today, like just about everywhere in the south of England, is growing rapidly, with many new housing developments, especially to the east of the town. 

But so far, these haven’t impacted on the town centre, which is listed as a protected conservation area and retains its gorgeous medieval character.

Top things to do in Saffron Walden

1/ Visit the historic market

Come on a Tuesday or Saturday and wander round the market. There are a few clothes and craft stalls, but mostly it’s about food, with fruits and vegetables, local bread and excellent cheeses, sweet treats and more.

There’s also a wholefoods stall, someone selling a large selection of olives, a Spanish deli stall with Spanish charcuterie, and even a wonderful fish stall which in the summer months has tables and chairs where you can enjoy a fish platter, complete with wine, for lunch.

If you’re lucky you may even spot celebrity chef Jamie Oliver, who is famously from Essex and lives nearby. He’s often seen picking up fresh ingredients for his recipes in the market.

If you’re a foodie, why not try this Saffron Walden food tour with tastings?

Read more: 13 Top Tips For Taking Great Travel Photos Of Markets

2/ Be awed by St Mary’s Church

St Mary’s, the Anglican parish church of the town, is a stunning medieval Gothic church – the biggest church in Essex and bigger than some cathedrals!

It sits in a commanding position in the heart of Saffron Walden, overlooking the whole town and surrounding countryside, and is recognised as one of the top 100 most important churches in England.

The current church was started around 1250, using stones from the dismantled castle (about which more below).

Around 1470, at the height of the wool and saffron trade, a massive enlargement was started. The architect is thought to have been John Wastell, who went on to design the world-famous Kings College Chapel in Cambridge – which you should definitely also visit if you’re in the area.   

The rebuild – which is in the Gothic Perpendicular style – was completed in 1530, almost exactly 500 years ago. Since then St Mary’s has remained substantially unchanged apart from the spire, which was built in 1832 and was deliberately made 12 feet higher than the one at neighbouring Thaxted! 

There’s lots to see in the church, including the tomb of Thomas Audley, who, having been responsible for the dissolution of the monasteries under Henry VIII, went on to build Audley End House on the site of the old Walden Abbey. The black marble of his tomb is described as being “as black as the heart of Lord Audley”.  

It’s free to enter St Mary’s, and if you’re lucky with your timings, there may even be free tea and biscuits when you visit.

Read more: Visiting San Andres Xecul, Guatemala: Home Of The Famous Yellow Church

3/ Explore Audley End House

The historic Audley End House sits about a mile out of town and is easily walkable from the town centre. This Jacobean mansion, now owned by English Heritage, is a must-see thing to do in Saffron Walden.  

During World War II the house was requisitioned and used by, among other people, the Polish Air Force for training. Since then it’s been magnificently restored and furnished.

In recent years the service quarters (kitchens and laundry) have been reopened; you can also visit the nursery wing on the top floor where there are Victorian toys for children to play with and costumes to try on.

The grounds are worth exploring in their own right, with a wonderful kitchen garden, a fantastic parterre at the back of the house, a haha, and the most magnificent trees throughout.   

There is also a small play area and an excellent café.

Read more: How To Visit Perge Ancient City Ruins In Antalya, Turkey

4/ Ride the Audley End Miniature Railway

On the other side of the road from Audley End House is Audley End Miniature Railway, much loved by small children who can take a ride in a scaled-down steam train on a long, winding track through the woods.

Along the way your kids will love spotting all sorts of excitements, from teddy bears in trees to fairies.  After the train, they can go on a fairy walk through the same woods and there is also an excellent playground.

It isn’t open every day, so check before you visit.

Saffron Walden is small and very walkable. After you’re done with the market, pop into the Tourist Office on the corner of the market square and pick up a Town Trail map to guide your explorations. You can also grab some local goodies including small tins of saffron.

You can either follow the Trail, or simply wander around the medieval streets (which are laid out in a grid pattern) admiring the wonderful old houses and popping into the many remaining independent shops. I still remember when the first chain shop appeared in Saffron Walden – much to everyone’s horror! 

Most notable among the independent shops is Harts Bookshop, run by incredibly knowledgeable and helpful staff and much loved by locals and their children – well worth a visit if you’re a book lover.

Read more: A Local’s Guide to Kelso Scotland: The Charming Borders Town

6/ Admire the Old Sun Inn

This former hostelry, which in the 1640’s was the headquarters of Cromwell’s New Model Army, is now in private hands and has been lovingly restored by its new owner, an expert on historic buildings. 

Have a look at the magnificent pargetting (decorative plasterwork) on the outside, especially the figures of the two giants, Gog and Magog.   

It was from here, in 1647, that one of the most significant events in English history took place. The New Model Army were fed up. The first Civil War had ended (the second was about to start, but they didn’t know that); they hadn’t been paid for months and they wanted to go home. But instead they were being sent to Ireland.  

So they elected representatives and held a ‘parliament’ to air their grievances with a group of Commissioners sent from London. This took place in St Mary’s Church, just across the road, and is thought to be the first example of representative democracy in this country.

7/ Saffron Walden Museum

This is one of the country’s oldest local purpose-built museums, opened in 1835 by another member of the Gibson family (mentioned above). The Saffron Walden Museum holds 175,000 specimens, including natural sciences, archaeology, social and local history, costume and textiles, world cultures and fine and decorative arts, all well displayed and interestingly labelled in a manageable series of small galleries.

Its most well-known and locally loved exhibit is Wallace the lion – a stuffed lion from 1838, thought to be the first lion bred in captivity in Britain.

Read more: 8 Must-See Ancient Egyptian Temples (Ranked By Wow Factor)

8/ The Fry Art Gallery

This little gem is the home of the Great Bardfield Artists,  a community of artists, illustrators and ceramicists based in the nearby village of Great Bardfield in the middle years of the twentieth century.

They included such well-known names as John Aldridge, Eric Ravilious and Edward Bawden – who were diverse in style but shared a love of figurative art.

Read more: Beautiful Frescoes, Graffiti and Street Art in Naples, Italy

9/ Bridge End Garden

Bridge End Garden was created around 1840 by another Gibson, Francis for his daughter, Elizabeth. She married into another famous Quaker family, the Fry’s (hence the Fry Art Gallery).  

Theatre, music and the Maze festival are regular features within the garden which is designed as a series of interlocking ‘rooms’, each with its own unique character.

These include the closely clipped box and yew of the Dutch Garden, the long border, the Wilderness, the formal Rose Garden, the secluded Poet’s Corner, the Walled Garden and the Hedge Maze, which is an excellent place to lose your children!

Since 2010 the gardens have been managed by Saffron Walden Town Council. 

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10/ Visit Walden castle

Walden Castle may be a ruin today, but it still offers a fascinating glimpse into Saffron Walden’s medieval past.

Built around 1141 by Geoffrey de Mandeville, it was originally part of a much larger fortification. Today, only the flint keep still stands, a reminder of the town’s Norman heritage.

While the castle is a ruin now and is currently surrounded by a fence for safety reasons, visitors can still walk around the site, read the information boards, and enjoy its elevated position overlooking the town centre.

It’s free to visit, easy to explore on foot, and makes an easy and quick stop while wandering between the market square and Bridge End Gardens.

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11/ Relax on the Common or explore the Turf Maze

To the east of the Market Square, behind Boots the chemist, is the Common, a wonderful and much used open green space. It’s often used for visiting funfairs, circuses, and specialist markets. On the Saturday nearest 5^th November, this also hosts the town’s spectacular firework display.

On the far side of the Common is the Turf Maze, which is of great antiquity and importance, being the largest example of its type in the world. It is a labyrinth, but if you just follow the path you will come to the middle – it’s impossible to get lost! 

But beware, the path is a mile in length although the total diameter of the maze is only 132 feet.  For those with small children, it is an excellent way of working off some energy, and when they have done that, there is a playground right next door (and benches for parents to sit on!).

12/ Enjoy a concert at Saffron Hall

Believe it or not, this little Essex market town is home to one of the top concert halls in the country. No exaggeration!

This extraordinary venue, based in Saffron Walden County High School on the western side of the town, is an internationally renowned concert space, gifted to the school and the town by an anonymous donor.  

Saffron Hall is recognised to have some of the best acoustics in the country and has hosted a plethora of famous musicians and orchestras, including Nicola Benedetti, Joyce diDonato, Nigel Kennedy, Jess Gillam, Iestyn Davies, the London Philharmonic Orchestra, the Britten Symphonia, the Sixteen, and the London Community Gospel Choir. 

In addition, they now have comedy nights, jazz evenings and one-man shows by people such as Jasper Carrott and Rory Bremner.

Read more: Chilly Sounds At The Ice Music Festival Norway

13/ Catch a movie at Saffron Screen

Saffron Walden also has its own pop-up cinema in another hall at the school, where they screen all the latest movies as well as Live Screenings from the National Theatre and the Royal Opera House. If you’d like to see a movie while you’re in Saffron Walden, check out what’s on here.

Where to stay in Saffron Walden

You’re probably thinking (quite rightly) that there is so much to see and do that you had better make a weekend of it. 

But where to stay? This is a bit of a problem: because of the medieval nature of the town, there are few hotels right in the town centre with parking. There are plenty of car parks, but they tend to involve walking for a few minutes – not so much fun with a suitcase. 

This means that most of the old coaching inns, such as the Saffron Hotel, have now gone. 

The Cross Keys

The only one left in the heart of the town is The Cross Keys, which dates back 850 years. Fortunately it’s been updated since then and now offers modern amenities like air-con and Wi-Fi, while still retaining that historic charm. Click here to see reviews and book.

Holiday home rentals

If you prefer self-catering, Saffron Walden has quite a few charming houses and cottages to rent, such as Baybrook Cottage, a pretty 2-bedroom house with a garden right in the middle of town.

Accommodation in nearby villages

If you have a car, there are plenty of cute traditional British pubs with guest rooms in the surrounding villages.  

Among these, all recommended and all within 15 minutes’ drive of Saffron Walden, are:

• The Cricketers at Clavering – formerly owned by Jamie Oliver’s parents
• The Three Hills at Bartlow – which also has an excellent restaurant
• Duxford Lodge – a luxury boutique hotel
• The Crown House Inn, Great Chesterford – a former Georgian coaching inn
• The Red Lion at Hinxton – a charming 16th-century freehouse with an AA Rosette restaurant

Premier Inn

If you’re travelling with a group or just fancy something basic, there is also a Premier Inn on the outskirts of town – but note that it’s quite far from the town centre and is pretty soulless, so if you have the budget I’d definitely recommend picking somewhere with more character.

Where to eat in Saffron Walden

By now you will be badly in need of some refreshment. Panic not: Saffron Walden has a host of coffee shops, cafés and restaurants, some of which are chains and some independent. 

My top picks include:

• The Goat and Grass – A cute diner-style place with a huge menu, great for lunches and brunches. It’s in a pedestrian area with outdoor seating, perfect for sunny days.
• Gluttons – A much-loved deli and café serving freshly made lunches, salads, and home-made cakes, with plenty of local produce on the menu.
• Café CouCou – A charming French-inspired café and patisserie popular for its croissants, quiches, and vibrant, continental feel.
• The Eight Bells – A historic 16th-century pub with oak beams, hearty pub food, and a welcoming beer garden just steps from the market square.
• The Old English Gentleman – A traditional British pub serving real ales, Sunday roasts, and classic comfort food in a friendly, old-school setting.

• The Restaurant on Church Street – An elegant fine-dining spot offering seasonal modern British cuisine in an intimate, beautifully restored historic building.
• Trio – A contemporary Italian restaurant and bar just off the market square.
• Indigo – A popular Indian restaurant known for its authentic flavours and warm, attentive service.
• Chaters, in Church Street, is an independent café and bakery known for its excellent coffee, small plates, and friendly local vibe right in the heart of Saffron Walden.  

How to get to Saffron Walden

By car

Saffron Walden is a little over an hour’s drive north-east of London, close to the M11 motorway (junction 9).

From Cambridge the drive south takes about 30 minutes, and from Stansted Airport it’s only about 25 minutes by car or taxi.

By train

You can get to Saffron Walden by train from London Liverpool Street (also stopping at either Tottenham Hale or Seven Sisters on the Victoria Line). The journey takes about 40-60 minutes depending on how many stops it makes.

The same train line carries on through to Cambridge so of course you can also do it the other way. The journey from Cambridge takes about 30 minutes.

There are also trains from Stansted Airport.

The nearest train station for Saffron Walden is Audley End, which isn’t actually in the town itself, but two miles to the west. That’s because when they were building the railway to Cambridge in the nineteenth century, the Quakers refused to allow it to come through Saffron Walden.

So when you arrive at Audley End station you’ll need to get either a local bus or a taxi to the town centre. The journey takes about 10 minutes. You can find information about bus times here but there are several routes and it’s quite confusing, so honestly I recommend just getting a taxi.

Check out train times and buy tickets on the Greater Anglia website.

By bus

There’s no direct bus from central London to Saffron Walden, so you’ll need at least one transfer.

The easiest route is via Stansted Airport: take a coach or bus from London to Stansted, then switch to the 316 from Stansted Airport to Saffron Walden. The overall journey (with the transfer) typically takes 2½ to 3 hours depending on traffic and wait times. 

You can get a direct bus from Cambridge to Saffron Walden with Stagecoach. The route is hourly (on weekdays) and takes about an hour.

Well I hope all this has whetted your appetite. Come and see us soon!

Is Saffron Walden worth visiting?

Thanks to my lovely mum for this helpful and in-depth guide to the gorgeous market town of Saffron Walden. I don’t think you get much more local knowledge than someone who’s lived there for nearly 20 years, right?

But it falls to me (Bella) to answer the final question as a visitor to the town. Is Saffron Walden worth visiting?

I think so, yes! Even if you don’t have family there like I do.

I’ve visited many pretty towns around the UK and I can honestly say Saffron Walden is up there with the best of them for its historic buildings, lack of tourists, amazing shops and restaurants, and its proximity to London, Cambridge and Stansted Airport.

Especially if you’re visiting from another country, Saffron Walden will give you that quintessential, charming English market town feel in one accessible, easily walkable, safe and welcoming package.

What more could you possibly want?!

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Where to next?

If you enjoyed this post, why not try some of my other UK posts or European city guides?

• A Local’s Guide to Kelso Scotland: The Charming Borders Town
• How to See and Photograph Puffins in the UK: 20 FAQs
• Red Kites In Wales: How To Photograph These Majestic Birds
• A Weekend In Palma de Mallorca: The Perfect City Break
• 11 Things To Do On A Thessaloniki City Break in Greece
• Seeing Gannets at the Incredible Bass Rock in Scotland

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