My Perfect Pembrokeshire Itinerary: A 5 Day Coast Road Trip

Pembrokeshire is one of the prettiest parts of the UK. Often overlooked in favour of the dramatic landscapes of Scotland or the summer holiday vibe of Cornwall, Pembrokeshire has just as much to offer, and without the crowds.

But with so many things to do in Pembrokeshire, how do you decide what to squeeze into your road trip, and what to leave out?

I’ve written this Pembrokeshire itinerary based on my own personally-researched trip, to help answer that exact question.

Getting around on a Pembrokeshire road trip

One of the great things about Pembrokeshire is that it’s small.

Most Pembrokeshire attractions are no more than 20 minutes’ drive away from one another, and to get from the north to south coasts only takes an hour by car.

So you can fit several highlights into a single day, and still have time for a sunset swim or a pint in a pretty Welsh pub at the end.

What’s more, most of the best things to do in Pembrokeshire are around the coast, making it really easy to do a loop and just stop off along the way.

Sometimes you may have to double back a tiny bit to reach your hotel for the night, but like I said, nothing is ever very far away.

About my Pembrokeshire itinerary in 5 days

I spent five days in Pembrokeshire and managed to fit in masses of wildlife, history, stunning coastal walks and beautiful beaches, and now I’ve combined them all into this handy route, taking in most of the region’s highlights.

This day-by-day Pembrokeshire itinerary works in order of travel in a clockwise direction from south to north, starting in Tenby and ending in Fishguard, with a suggested amount of time to spend at each place.

That way if you only have 4 days in Pembrokeshire, or can afford to stay a bit longer, you can work out your own schedule depending on your preferences.

If you want to do a lot of walking, I’d suggest you need 5-7 days to really make the most of your holiday in Pembrokeshire.

Of course it’s easy enough to do this road trip in the opposite direction if you prefer.

Day 1 – Tenby, Pembroke Castle, Carew Castle

Start in the colourful town of Tenby, spend the morning exploring, then in the afternoon check out two of Wales’s most magnificent castles.

Morning – Tenby

Tenby is one of the most popular places to visit in Pembrokeshire.

A buzzing seaside town, it does everything a holiday town should, with candy-coloured houses, three sandy beaches, cute seafront B&Bs and guesthouses, and plenty of shops selling local fudge, sweets and buckets and spades.

You could easily spend a few days here just strolling round its charming town centre or playing on the beach, but Tenby also has plenty of history, with the small ruins of the 12^th century Tenby Castle overlooking the sea, and directly opposite, St Catherine’s Island, home to a 19^th century fort.

When the tide is out you can walk across the beach and explore the island and fort, but be careful not to get cut off by the rising sea!

When I was there the island was closed because the tide was coming in; I spent just a few minutes taking photos at the bottom of the steps and by the time I was done I had to take off my shoes and paddle back!

If you’re pushed for time you can get a feel for Tenby in a few hours.

However if you have more time it’s great to spend a whole day here, and plenty of people base themselves in Tenby, stay all week, and just use their rental car to do day trips to all the other tourist attractions in Pembrokeshire.

If you do plan to stay longer in Tenby you could also take a boat trip to Caldey Island, a holy island with a monastery still occupied by Cistercian monks. Boats to Caldey Island leave from Tenby beach or harbour and take about 20 minutes.

Why Tenby is one of the best things to do in Pembrokeshire

Tenby is both pretty and historic, and has a really relaxed holiday vibe.

If it’s a nice day, take a walk round to North Beach and enjoy the views back across the harbour with the light hitting all those colourful buildings

Have lunch in the town, and then get in the car and drive just 15 minutes to the next stop on your Pembrokeshire road trip: Carew Castle.

Afternoon – Carew Castle and Tidal Mill

There are so many castles in Wales, if you’re a fan of history and old buildings, you’re really spoiled for choice.

On my Pembrokeshire itinerary I opted for two of the finest, Carew Castle and Pembroke Castle (see next step on this road trip).

Carew Castle was founded in the 11th century, though much of what you can see today was built by Sir Nicholas de Carew who died in 1311.

Today it’s a crumbling ruin, with plants growing out of the walls and a protected colony of bats living in one of the towers.

I loved it because it’s impossibly atmospheric; you can almost feel the history seeping out of the stones and sense the ghosts as you tread in their footsteps.

As part of your Carew Castle entry ticket you also get access to the Tidal Mill, which is an historic flour mill that used to be powered by water.

One of the two mill wheels is from 1801 but there has been a mill on this site at least as far back as the 16^th century.

Today it’s a museum where you can see the old water wheels and the machinery used for grinding wheat to make flour.

The walk from Carew Castle round to the Tidal Mill and back along the other side of the millpond is about a mile and offers fabulous views of Carew Castle. It’s an easy, flat walk and you can’t get lost, so I highly recommend you do it.

If you have kids, you can also have fun catching crabs from the causeway; crabbing gear can be bought in the Mill shop.

Carew Castle: need to know

If you’re rushed you can see just the castle in half an hour, but I’d allow 2-3 hours to see the castle and mill, get an ice cream from the cafe, and do the circular walk around the lake.

Entry to Carew Castle and Tidal Mill costs £6.50 and can be booked online here. Parking is free.

Read more: Red Kites In Wales: How To Photograph These Majestic Birds

Afternoon – Pembroke Castle

If one castle isn’t enough on your Pembrokeshire road trip, why not have two?!

It only takes another 15 minutes to drive from Carew Castle to the next stop on my personally tried-and-tested Pembrokeshire Itinerary: Pembroke Castle.

Pembroke Castle was the birthplace of Henry VII, first king in the legendary Tudor Dynasty, and is steeped in over 1000 years of (often quite gory) history.

It’s what I would call a *proper* castle, with masses of towers, staircases, narrow corridors, and ramparts giving amazing views out over the surrounding area (so you can watch out for advancing armies!).

As well as visiting inside the castle, make sure you do the short circular walk around the outside of the castle pond to really appreciate this historic building’s magnificence.

The signage, routes and explanations at Pembroke Castle have been well laid out, making a visit really rewarding and a great experience for both adults and children.

Pembroke Castle: need to know

Allow 1-2 hours here to explore it all, or maybe a little bit longer if you have kids. There’s also a nice cafe in the castle grounds where you can stop for cake or an ice cream.

Tickets to Pembroke Castle cost £7 and must be booked online (but I did mine on my phone while standing outside). There’s parking a short walk from the castle; you’ll need to pay and display.

Where to stay near Pembroke Castle

Since everywhere is so close together you can either stay in Pembroke, head down to the coast, or even drive back to Tenby and spend the night there. Here are a few suggestions.

Tenby

Giltar Hotel: This is where I stayed on my first night in Pembrokeshire. It’s a comfortable guest house right on the esplanade with amazing views out to sea. Booking.com rating: 8.7.

Heywood Spa Hotel: Located a little way inland from Tenby town centre and away from the coast and the beaches, Heywood Spa Hotel is a smart hotel with a spa, garden, and terrace. There’s free parking, and it’s close to Tenby but also has easy access to the main road out of town, making it an ideal base for exploring the area. Booking.com rating: 8.7.

Pembroke

Old Kings Arms Hotel: Conveniently located just a short walk from Pembroke Castle, this historic 16th-century hotel has comfortable rooms and a charming atmosphere. Its location makes it a great base for both Tenby and the south coast, meaning you could stay here two nights if you wanted. Booking.com rating: 8.7.

Portclew House: I stayed here for one night on my Pembrokeshire road trip but this is another lovely hotel where you could easily base yourself for the first two nights. A family-run country house, Portclew House has landscaped gardens and is close to both the coast and Pembroke town​. Booking.com rating: 9.2.

Day 2 – Barafundle, Bosherston, St Govan’s Chapel

Continue your clockwise road trip around Pembrokeshire, taking in beaches, nature walks and a bit of history along the stunning Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

Morning – Barafundle Bay 

There are lots of beaches in Wales, but Barafundle Bay is the one that wins all the awards. A wide strip of golden sand in a sheltered bay, with clear blue-green waters, if you love beaches, this is pretty much as good as it gets.

The car park for Barafundle is at Stackpole Quay, and it’s then a 20-30 minute walk over the cliffs to reach this pristine beach. This is the only way to get there so unfortunately it’s not accessible.

There are also no facilities at the beach so bring everything you need with you – if you need the toilet you’ll have to walk back to the car park!

If you’re a beach or water adventures lover you could spend the whole day here, but you’ll need a minimum of 2 hours to walk there, look around for an hour, and walk back to the car park.

Why Barafundle Bay is one of the best places to visit in Pembrokeshire

It’s just enough effort to get there to put off the crowds, making this beach not only beautiful but also generally quiet (except on extremely sunny summer weekends, when you’ll need to arrive early to bag a space in the car park).

If you don’t have enough time to spend a whole day at the beach, you could just enjoy the walk and the views, and have a quick paddle (or if it’s not too cold, a swim).

Then walk back to the carpark and drive the short distance to the Stackpole Inn for lunch.

Afternoon – Bosherston Lily Ponds

Just a few minutes’ drive away from Barafundle Bay are the Bosherston Lily Ponds.  

These are man-made lakes built between 1780 and 1860 as part of the sculpted landscape belonging to Stackpole Court stately home.

Read more: 13 Things To Do In Saffron Walden: A Local’s Complete Guide

The house itself was demolished in 1963 but the lakes are now a haven for wildlife including waterbirds and otters.

If you want to make an afternoon of it, there’s a 5-mile walk that takes you in a loop all the way back to Barafundle Bay, or if you prefer to just check out the famous lily ponds, you can do a much quicker 40-minute circuit round the main pond.

The huge lakes covered with waterlilies and rich wildlife are really an impressive sight, and the shady paths around the edge make for a calming and peaceful walk.

Afternoon – St Govan’s Chapel and the Green Bridge of Wales

Once you’ve had your fill of nature, it’s time for a bit more history (and some epic views!).

St Govan’s Chapel is a small, ruined hermit’s chapel set right into the cliff face. A set of steep steps heads down to the chapel, or you can walk round the cliff edge to appreciate its impressive setting from above.

It’s probably one of the smallest religious buildings you’ll ever visit, and definitely has one of the best locations.

Note that the road to St Govan’s passes through Ministry of Defence land and is sometimes closed due to military activity, so check before you go. Weekends are usually fine.

Time needed to visit St Govan’s Chapel

If you just want to see the chapel you’ll only need about 15 minutes to take a quick look, or stay a bit longer for a wander around the cliffs nearby.

But if you’re taking your Pembrokeshire road trip at a more leisurely pace, from St Govan’s you can walk the three miles along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path to the Green Bridge of Wales, an impressive natural arch that juts out into the sea.

Take in the incredible views of the Elegug Stack Rocks before turning round and heading back to the car (total walking time, about 3 hours).

If you do have a bit longer, try to visit in the morning, when the sun falls on the cliff face.

Where to stay near Barafundle Bay

To avoid having to swap hotels every night, I’d recommend spending a second night at Portclew House or the Old Kings Arms.

Or you could drive a bit further along the coast, ready for your next morning’s adventures. This might be a good idea if you’ve booked an early boat to Skomer Island.

Day 3 – Skomer Island to Little Haven

I loved my Pembrokeshire road trip, but for me Day 3 and my visit to Skomer Island was the absolute highlight.

Skomer Island

Skomer Island is a nature reserve located just off the coast of south Pembrokeshire, home to huge numbers of seabirds including guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes and terns, as well as sometimes porpoises and grey seals.

But between April and August the main draw is the puffin colonies. About 35,000 puffins come here to breed during the spring and summer, and they’re wonderful and hilarious to watch.

The boat to Skomer leaves from Martin’s Haven every half hour in the morning and you need to get there at least half an hour before your allotted departure time to check in.

Return boats are allocated in the order in which you arrived, so everyone gets about 4-5 hours on the island.

Note that Skomer landings only operate from late March to the end of September, and puffins are only there from roughly April to August.

It’s very popular so you will need to book well in advance. Skomer landing trips at weekends in peak puffin season can be fully booked up to a year ahead.

I wrote a whole separate post about the experience here: Visiting the Skomer Island Puffins in Wales

After you get back from your wildlife spotting adventure on Skomer Island, you’ll have the rest of the afternoon free.

Head to nearby Marloes Sands for a stroll on the beach – or even a swim if you’re brave enough!

Or if you’re visiting in the summer, why not have an early dinner at the Griffin Inn in the pretty village of Dale, and then drive back to Martin’s Haven to watch the sun set from the west-facing viewpoint.

Why Skomer Island is one of the best things to do in Pembrokeshire

Because of the puffins!

There are a few other places you can see puffins in the UK, but Skomer is one of the most accessible, and in some areas on the island the puffins nest right next to the path, meaning you can get really close to them.

I loved it so much I’ve been twice, and plan to keep going back as often as I can.

Read more: How to See and Photograph Puffins in the UK: 20 FAQs

Where to stay near Skomer Island

I stayed two nights at FSC Dale Fort Hostel, before and after my trip to Skomer Island.

Dale Fort is a 19^th century defensive fort that has been converted into a hostel and field studies centre. It’s perched right on the cliff top up a steep hill from the cute village of Dale, and commands incredible views.

While it’s not the most luxurious, for a solo traveller like me it was affordable and the location was perfect. Although it’s a hostel, they also have single, double and family rooms.

Also I thought it was really cool to stay the night in an old fort. It has a Booking.com rating of 7.6.

Or you could carry on up the coast and head to the Lobster Pot in Marloes or the Sunset Bed & Breakfast in Broad Haven where, as the name suggests, you might get to enjoy a lovely sunset at the end of Day 3 of your Pembrokeshire itinerary.

Day 4 – Solva and St David’s

From Marloes or Broad Haven it’s about 25-40 minutes north up the coast to the next point on my Pembrokeshire road trip: Solva.

Morning – Solva

As you drive north around the edge of St Brides Bay you’ll come to Solva, a pretty but busy harbour village with a range of cafes, pubs, galleries and shops.

It’s a lovely place to spend a relaxed couple of hours, maybe grabbing a late breakfast, exploring the high street, or enjoying a walk around the harbour.

From the car park in the harbour, several paths lead up to join the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

I crossed the bridge and walked up the hill on the other side of the water, where a stunning woodland trail crammed with pink foxgloves brought me out to a viewpoint with Solva on the right and the sea on the left.

If you visit at low tide the water will mostly be gone apart from a small river down the centre, which is a great spot for catching crabs with the kids.

Time needed in Solva

You can take in the views in a couple of hours, but you could easily spend longer here exploring the coastal paths or the shops, or having lunch in one of the cute pubs.

Otherwise, hop back in the car and drive the 10 minutes to St David’s and have lunch there.

Lunchtime – St David’s

St David’s is the UK’s smallest city, home to only about 1600 people. It’s named after St David, the patron saint of Wales, and is said to be where he was laid to rest.

The main attraction is St David’s Cathedral, which is what gives this tiny place its city status.

It’s a stunning building, resplendent with ornate ceilings and a magnificent tower – a proper, full-sized cathedral that feels completely out of place in this village-sized community.

The shrine to St David has been a place of pilgrimage since the 12^th century and is said to be where the saint’s bones are kept. Entry to the cathedral is free.

Next door to St David’s Cathedral is the Bishop’s Palace, a magnificent medieval residence. It’s now in ruins, but still impressive and atmospheric; you can wander the halls and underground rooms, and there are illustrations and audio guides in each room to help you understand what it was like. Entry costs £4.

Although it’s a city, St David’s is really very small, and you can easily see everything in an afternoon.

Why St David’s is one of the top things to see in Pembrokeshire

You can’t come all this way and not visit the UK’s smallest city!

Plus the cathedral is magnificent and definitely worth a visit, and the city is a good place to base yourself for exploring Pembrokeshire’s north coast.

Afternoon – Whitesands Bay and St David’s Head

If you’re up for more fresh air and coastal views, drive the 15 minutes from St David’s to Whitesands Bay.

Here you can just chill out on the beach and enjoy an ice cream from the café, or if you’re feeling more energetic, take the path that leads uphill from the car park and around St David’s Head, one of Wales’ most beautiful headlands.

The entire circular walk around St David’s Head takes a bit more than an hour and passes the remains of a Neolithic burial chamber as well as offering spectacular views.

Since I didn’t have all that much time, I didn’t do the whole thing. I just walked along the path to see the views and then went back the same way.

Where to stay in St David’s

If you book a hotel in St David’s you might get a chance to enjoy the sunset over the cathedral, though when I was there it was a bit too cloudy.

Here are two recommended places to stay:

Twr y Felin Hotel: This luxurious boutique hotel, housed in a former windmill, offers contemporary art and stylish rooms. It features stunning panoramic views of the St. David’s Peninsula and an on-site restaurant serving locally sourced cuisine, making it one of the most highly-rated hotels in St Davids. Booking.com rating: 9.3.

St. Davids Cross Hotel: Centrally located in the heart of St. David’s, this charming hotel offers easy access to local landmarks like St. David’s Cathedral. I didn’t stay here but this is where I ate lunch, and it seemed like a really nice and well-located pub. Booking.com rating 8.9.

Day 5 – Blue Lagoon, Porthgain, Dinas Island, Fishguard

On the final day of your Pembrokeshire itinerary you have a chance to explore some of the peninsula’s north coast. This is where you’ll probably realise that 5 days in Pembrokeshire isn’t really enough!

Morning – Abereiddy and the Blue Lagoon

Just 15 minutes’ drive from St David’s is the small hamlet of Abereiddy, home to the famous Blue Lagoon. Now a National Trust site, the Blue Lagoon used to be a slate quarry that was mined until 1910, when it closed down.

Later, a channel was blasted between the quarry and the sea, allowing seawater to flow in creating a lake 25 metres deep, full of vivid blue-green water. The colour is caused by the sediment from the slate.

With its steep sides and depth it’s perfect for diving, and the site is now a hub for adventure sports including paddle boarding, coasteering and cliff jumping. The lagoon was even used for the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series in 2012, 2013 and 2016.

Take a walk up and around the top of the crater (keep away from the edge if you suffer from vertigo!) or if you’re feeling more adventurous you could go for a swim or even book a coasteering adventure.

As well as admiring the crater, you can also walk over to the other side of the cliff for spectacular sea views.

When I visited there were some people doing stand-up paddle boarding, and others doing cliff jumping.

You only need about an hour here if you just want to look around; 2-3 hours minimum if you want to swim or go coasteering.

Why the Blue Lagoon is one of the best things to do in Pembrokeshire

Even if you’re pushed for time, the views of the Blue Lagoon, with its bright turquoise water and spectacular coastal location, are pretty amazing.

Lunch – Porthgain

Another 10 minutes’ drive east along the Pembrokeshire coast brings you to Porthgain, a pretty village with a harbour that was originally built to export the slate from nearby quarries.

You can still see some of the remains of the town’s industrial past today, along with a village green, a couple of shops and cafes, and two restaurants.

Take a stroll round the village, enjoy a clifftop walk, and then head to The Shed for fish & chips so good they’re famous across the county.

Why visiting Porthgain is one of the best things to do in Pembrokeshire

It’s a very pretty village with a charming harbour and a couple of lovely coastal path walks, but the best thing about Porthgain are the fish&chips.

It may have been the food – the chips crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, the cod firm and juicy and coated in light and crispy batter – or it may have been the fact that I ate it fresh from the box while dangling my legs over the harbour wall and looking out to sea, but it could not have been more perfect.  

A couple of hours for a wander and then lunch is probably plenty of time here, unless you want to use this as a base to walk more of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

Afternoon – Strumble Head

From Porthgain it’s approximately a 30 minute’s drive to Strumble Head, yet another windswept and scenic viewpoint, this one topped by a lonely lighthouse.

The lighthouse itself is not open to the public, but it makes for great views, and there’s a wildlife-spotting hide that’s great for watching out for passing seabirds and, if you’re lucky, porpoises.

Allow half an hour just to park up and take in the views, but you could stay for several hours if you wanted to walk some of the coast path or spend some time wildlife-spotting.

Why visiting Strumble Head should be on your Pembrokeshire itinerary

Strumble Head feels really remote and lonely.

It’s the sort of place where you can really inhale the sea air deep into your lungs and leave the weight of your daily life behind you for a few moments.

Afternoon – Dinas Island

If you’re making good time on your Pembrokeshire road trip, you could try to squeeze in one last coastal walk at Dinas Island, which is not actually an island but a peninsula with more windswept views and landscapes awash with more wildflowers than you can eat (except don’t, foxgloves are poisonous).

There’s a National Trust car park (you’ll need coins!) at Pwllgwaelod Beach leading to a three-mile circular walk that takes you around the headland.

Pwllgwaelod Beach also has a pub where you can have a well-deserved pint or meal after your walk.

Time needed at Dinas Island

If you don’t stop for too many photos you can complete the Dinas Island circuit in about two hours.

Then you’ll need to double back and drive the 15 minutes back to Fishguard to stay the night.

Evening – Fishguard

The final stop on this Pembrokeshire itinerary is Fishguard, another quaint Welsh coastal town – at least, in part.

The town is made up of two adjoining areas: Fishguard and Goodwick, each with its own harbour.

The main harbour, in Goodwick, is the terminal for the ferries that go to Rosslare in Ireland; this side of the town feels more industrial.

The other half, Fishguard proper, has a small high street with shops and colourfully-painted buildings, and a very picturesque Lower Town harbour where I spent a very happy couple of hours photographing the sunset.

Why Fishguard is one of the best places to visit in Pembrokeshire

If the weather is right, the sunsets here are second to none.

Go cold-water swimming off the ramp at the far end of the harbour, or head to the ruins of Fishguard fort to take in your sunset with a side order of history.

Where to stay in Fishguard

I stayed at The Ferryboat in nearby Goodwick, just a few minutes’ drive from the pretty part of the town.

This wasn’t actually planned, I thought I was booking in Fishguard proper, but although the location wasn’t quite what I was expecting it didn’t matter because I had a car.

The guest house itself was brand new and really nicely designed, and the hosts were super friendly and helpful.

If you’d rather stay closer to the pretty side of town, the four-star JT Abergwaun Hotel gets great reviews and is right in the centre of the lower town, close to the fishing harbour. Booking.com rating 8.4.

A Pembrokeshire road trip: Practicalities

Driving in Pembrokeshire

If you’re used to nice wide motorways and clearly-signposted city routes, driving in Pembrokeshire might come as a bit of a shock.

Many of the roads are quite windy and single-track only, with occasional wider places to allow two cars to pass. Sometimes there are also cyclists and walkers along the side of the road.

It’s really important to be considerate to other road users, and take it slowly as you could come across a car coming the other way at any time.

That said, I loved my Pembrokeshire road trip because narrow lanes are incredibly pretty, especially in the summer when the verges are bursting with wildflowers.

Parking in Pembrokeshire

There are plenty of car parks, most of which require you to Pay and Display. Some are quite small, so if it’s a weekend and a sunny day, get to your destination early or you may not get in (this happened to me at Barafundle Bay).

Parking usually costs about £1 an hour for the first £1-3 hours, and £5-6 for a whole day, though prices do vary and may have increased by the time you read this.

It’s also really important to note that many of the machines are cash or Pay By Phone only (no cards). I fell foul of this several times when I didn’t have small change and there was no phone signal!

So make sure you have some coins with you at all times, and it’s a good idea to download and register on the Pay By Phone app before you travel.

And that’s it! Loads of amazing places to visit on a Pembrokeshire road trip. I hope you liked this post; if you have other suggestions for great things to see and do on this Pembrokeshire itinerary feel free to contact me and let me know.

There is always more to come so please do sign up to updates by email to get notifications about new posts, or follow me on Twitter or Instagram.

I paid in full for my trip. All opinions are my own and all prices correct at the time of writing.

Where to next?

If you enjoyed this post, here are some other UK and Europe posts you might like:

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• Scotland’s Isle of May: Puffins, Beautiful Landscapes and More
• A Turkey Road Trip On The Aegean Coast
• How To Visit Perge Ancient City Ruins In Antalya, Turkey
• An Unhelpful Guide to… Canterbury
• 15 Things To Do In Huesca: Northern Spain’s Adventure Capital
• A Local’s Guide to Kelso Scotland: The Charming Borders Town

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