Queen Elizabeth National Park Uganda: Is It Overhyped?

Visitors to Uganda looking for a wildlife safari experience will usually – if not always – add Queen Elizabeth National Park to their itinerary. It is, after all, said to be one of Uganda’s top national parks, offering excellent game viewing opportunities as well as magnificent landscapes.

But does the real experience live up to the Insta-glossy reputation? Does Queen Elizabeth National Park, celebrated for its beauty and wildlife abundance, deliver on its promise, or has its popularity outpaced reality?

In this post I’ll give you a breakdown of all the things you can see and do there, show you my personal experience, and help you make up your mind about whether or not it’s worth the effort to visit.

About my visit to Queen Elizabeth National Park In Uganda

I travelled to Queen Elizabeth National Park as part of a two-week trip round central and western Uganda with my friend and fellow travel blogger Linn.

We came by car from Kibale, where the previous day we’d had an incredible experience tracking chimpanzees in the forest. The journey from Kibale to Queen Elizabeth Park by road took just three hours, so we were able to have a lazy morning and still be there in plenty of time for lunch – very civilised!

During our time in the park we did several game-viewing drives – both morning and evening ones, as well as a boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel and a landscape drive to see the famous crater lakes. There’s more about all of this below, so read on if you want to find out what it was like and what I thought.

Introducing Queen Elizabeth National Park

Established in 1952, Queen Elizabeth National Park is Uganda’s most popular tourist destination. Covering nearly 2,000 square kilometres, the park is home to nearly 100 different mammal species including lions, leopards, elephants, chimpanzees, the highest concentration of hippos in Africa, and over 600 types of African bird.

And aside from all the amazing animals you can see, the park also boasts some of the most jaw-dropping landscapes anywhere in the country, encompassing savannas, wetlands, forests, and crater lakes.

Where is Queen Elizabeth National Park?

Situated on Uganda’s western border, right on the equator, Queen Elizabeth National Park sits on the edge of East Africa’s Rift Valley, a geological marvel stretching northwards from South Africa to Ethiopia.

The Rift Valley was formed about 30 million years ago by the pulling apart of two tectonic plates. As the plates diverged, molten rock welled up from the Earth’s mantle, creating volcanoes and uplifting the landmass. Over time, erosion carved into the uplifted plateaus, forming the stunning landscapes we see in the park today.

As you drive through the park, you’ll see not only deep flat plain of the valley itself, with the jagged Rwenzori Mountains in the background, but also rolling green hills, dozens of enormous craters belonging to long-extinct volcanoes, sparkling lakes, and the wildlife-filled Kazinga Channel.

Wildlife in Queen Elizabeth National Park Uganda

So why should you visit? Here is a short list of just some of the exciting wildlife that I saw during my two-day visit. Of course wildlife sightings are never guaranteed, but we got pretty lucky, and hopefully you will too!

1/ The famous tree-climbing lions

Queen Elizabeth National Park is famed for its lions that climb trees. Now you might think that, since lions are cats, and cats like to climb trees, this isn’t so surprising – especially when you consider that another type of big cat, the leopard, is a skilled tree climber.

But in reality, most lions do not climb trees. While they do possess the physical capabilities to climb trees, like retractable claws and powerful limbs, it’s not a universal behavior.

Only a very few specific populations, primarily here in Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda and in Lake Manyara National Park in Tanzania, climb trees more frequently. That’s why these lions are referred to as ‘tree-climbing lions’.

Scientists are unsure about the exact reason for this behavior. Some suggest it helps the lions escape the annoyance of biting insects like tsetse flies, while others think it offers vantage points for spotting prey, helps them keep an eye out for rival predators, or gives them a cooler resting place away from the sweltering heat on the ground.

In Queen Elizabeth National Park, the tree-climbing lions can be found in the Ishasha sector in the south of the park, so head there if you want to see them!

Seeing tree climbing lions in Queen Elizabeth Game Park

And that is exactly what we did.

On our second afternoon, our driver Hassan heard reports of a lion sighting in one sector of the park.  We knew we’d found the right spot when we came across a crowd of parked cars, all clearly there for the same reason. 

There were no lions to be seen, and so quite a few people had got out of their vehicles, which I thought was an utterly idiotic thing to do given that the very reason they were there is because there were lions nearby! 

But fortunately for these morons the lions didn’t show up, so after waiting a while we decided to move on.  It was too hot, and once lions find a place to rest for the day, they don’t tend to move again until the evening, so the chances of them coming back any time soon was slim.

Instead we headed into the Ishasha sector of the park, where the tree-climbing lions are said to hang out. We drove for about an hour, stopping each time we passed a car coming the other way to ask about lions. Two people said they had seen the same one in a particular tree, so Hassan followed the directions and soon enough, we found him.

We watched him for a while, breathless with excitement, and obviously I took dozens of photos.  Then two more cars arrived and parked up, and again the passengers got out of the car – even with a lion right there!  How stupid are these people?!

Of course, when he suddenly got up and jumped down from the tree, they moved pretty damn quickly to get back in the vehicle!

So here’s my top tip: if you’re on a wildlife safari and there might be dangerous animals nearby, STAY IN THE CAR!

Read more: 46 Amazing African Safari Animals – A Photo Guide

Lions vs villagers: conflict in Queen Elizabeth National Park

There are about 75 lions in Queen Elizabeth National Park, although numbers have been decreasing due to conflict between the lions and local villagers, who object to the cats taking their cattle and respond by killing them. 

The Uganda Wildlife Authority has tried to stop this by giving 20% of the profits from tourism back to the communities, and by compensating any farmer whose cow is eaten by a lion.

This appeared to be working just fine, until just a few days after we were there, a horrifying eleven lions were poisoned by local people in revenge for killing their livestock.

The dead lions, eight of them cubs and the other three adult lionesses, were part of a pride that also included three males. The carcasses and bones, discovered near a fishing village called Hamkungu, were sent to a regional town for testing. Experts suspect the lions were poisoned with alidcarb, an insecticide.

I sympathise with the villagers’ plight, but I honestly can’t imagine anyone wanting to destroy an animal as fierce and beautiful as this.

2/ Elephants

Queen Elizabeth National Park is a haven for African savanna elephants, boasting over 2,500 individuals. These gentle giants roam the grasslands and woodlands, feeding on leaves, fruits, and bark. Observing them grazing peacefully or interacting with each other is a highlight for many visitors.

Interestingly, they’re known for their “whistling,” a form of communication scientists are still unraveling. They also exhibit complex social structures, led by experienced matriarchs.

Elephants play a crucial role in the park’s ecosystem, shaping landscapes and dispersing seeds. However, threats like poaching and habitat loss remain concerns, making conservation efforts vital.

My experience seeing elephants in Queen Elizabeth National Park

As we drove through the park on the first day, Hassan spotted two elephants by the side of the road, and slammed on the brakes. And at precisely the same time, I saw another four on the opposite side, and squealed with excitement.

And they were so bloody close to the car that I was able to get amazingly detailed photos.

Being so close to such incredible wild animals is a fantastic experience. Hassan shut off the engine, and all we could hear was the puffing of their breathing, the crackle of twigs and grasses under their feet, and the munching noises they made as they ate.

But we were also reminded how dangerous they potentially can be, when the largest one, a big male, decided to cross the road directly behind our car. Halfway, he turned and looked at us, and it was quite clear that he wasn’t happy about our presence at all. 

He stopped dead in the middle of the road, and began puffing and blowing and flapping his ears: it wasn’t entirely clear if he was confused, angry, or upset, but he certainly wasn’t comfortable with us being there. 

We all sat very still, nervously waiting to see what would happen, and wondering if we were about to come back with a rather more exciting travel tale than we’d anticipated.

Happily, though, our new friend eventually decided we weren’t a threat, and went on his way.  Hassan told us afterwards he’d had his foot on the accelerator and his hand on the ignition the whole time, just in case we suddenly needed to make an urgent getaway.

At little further on we saw another herd of elephants, this time with several babies. And later we saw even more. Each time they were right by the side of the road so we could park close to them, watch them in detail, and take more photos than anyone could ever possibly need!

We must have seen around three dozen elephants in total. And in all that time, we never saw a single other vehicle. We had our part of Queen Elizabeth National Park entirely to ourselves. You don’t get that in the Maasai Mara, that’s for sure!

3/ Leopards

Queen Elizabeth National Park is home to more than just lions and elephants. Here, amidst the acacia woodlands and along the Kazinga Channel, stalk elusive leopards – one of my all-time favourite safari animals.

Leopards tend to like to hide in bushes or up in the trees, so they can be much harder to spot. However, with a good guide, who knows where they like to hang out, and can look out for telltale signs like tracks or the alarm calls of other animals, you may be able to see one.

While sightings may be fleeting, the chance to encounter these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat in one of the highlights of any Ugandan safari.

Seeing a leopard in Queen Elizabeth National Park

On our second evening, Hassan had heard from the rangers that a leopard had been spotted in a large cactus tree, so he decided to see if he could find it for us. I think leopards are probably the most beautiful of all wild cats, so I was pretty excited.

Hassan only had a sketchy idea of where this particular tree was, but he followed the instructions as best he could, and we peered intently at every tree we passed, looking for those tell-tale spots, and eventually we saw a particularly big one with several other cars parked by it, and knew we’d found it.

The female leopard was sitting poised, relaxed yet alert, on a branch about halfway up the tree, just a little above my eye level as I stood up in the back of vehicle with the top popped up. 

She could not have been more perfectly positioned if I’d been able to choreograph the scene myself: we were able to park the car directly in front of her, and admire her from a distance of no more than a few metres. If she’d wanted to, I’m pretty sure she could have jumped off the branch and pounced right onto the car.

We were so close I was even able to take this video, just with my phone!

3/ Hippos

Queen Elizabeth game park boasts the highest concentration of hippos in Africa, with an estimated 5,000 inhabiting its waterways. These semi-aquatic giants, which are related to whales, spend their days submerged in the cool depths of the Kazinga Channel and Lakes George and Edward, emerging at dusk to graze on the lush plains. Witnessing them waddling ungracefully from the water is an unforgettable sight!

But despite their imposing appearance, hippos also play a vital role in the ecosystem, grazing on grasses that prevent the savanna from turning into forest.

While seemingly clumsy on land, hippos are surprisingly agile in the water – though they cannot actually swim. Instead, they walk along the bottom, or bounce!

Seeing hippos in Queen Elizabeth National Park

Having spent the night listening to the hippos grunting in the river from the relative safety of our safari tent, I was keen to see them with my own eyes. So, early the next morning, we got up for a dawn game drive in the hope of spotting them (and many other animals).

Early morning is a great time to do a safari game drive, when the light is perfect and the animals are usually at their most active. Though ‘active’ is perhaps not the word I’d use to describe these hippos!

Seeing them just chilling out here reminded me of the chorus from the Flanders and Swann song, The Hippopotamus:

Mud, mud, glorious mud!
Nothing quite like it for cooling the blood. 
So follow me, follow
Down to the hollow 
And there let us wallow
In glorious mud! 

Which of course I had on the brain for several hours afterwards!

4/ Bird life in Queen Elizabeth Park

Queen Elizabeth National Park is a haven for birdwatchers, boasting over 600 species of African birds including prehistoric-looking shoebills, graceful African skimmers, pelicans, hornbills, herons, and many more.

Among the ones we spotted were this handsome African wattled lapwing…

… and a flock of black-headed weaver birds, which we spotted in a thorny bush near to where we had stopped for breakfast. Dozens of them congregated here, flying away and returning, hopping and chattering, so I decided to postpone breakfast and set up with my camera as close as I could instead. Who needs an egg sandwich when there’s a great photo opportunity to be had?!

Read more: Top 50 African Birds: A Safari Photo Guide

The Kazinga Channel

One of the best places to see all this wildlife and more, all in one place, is the Kazinga Channel.

The Kazinga Channel is a 32-kilometre (20-mile) long natural channel that connects Lake George and Lake Edward in Queen Elizabeth National Park. It is a dominant feature of the park and a popular area for wildlife viewing.

The Kazinga Channel is home to one of the world’s largest concentrations of hippos, with an estimated population of around 2,000. Other wildlife that can be spotted here includes Nile crocodiles, elephants, buffaloes, and over 100 species of water birds.

The channel is a popular destination for boat safaris, which offer stunning views of the wildlife and the surrounding landscape. Boat trips typically last two hours and offer a unique opportunity to get up close to the animals.

Found out more how to do a boat safari on the Kazinga Channel here.

The volcanic landscapes of Queen Elizabeth National Park

But the park is not just about the wildlife. One thing you also can’t fail to notice as you drive around are the stunning landscapes!

As I mentioned above, QENP sits in Africa’s Rift Valley, which was formed millions of years ago by tectonic and volcanic activity. This upheaval has now left behind an eye-bending array of craggy peaks, ancient craters, and rolling green hills that are a joy to explore.

Craters and crater lakes

Dotted across Queen Elizabeth National Park are 41 volcanic scars, of which 28 hold sparkling crater lakes. These were formed by violent eruptions that carved into the landscape. Erosion and collapse over time filled them with water, creating unique ecosystems.

The largest area is called the Katwe craters trail, or Katwe-Kikorongo explosion craters. It’s a volcanic field of around 81 square miles, pocked with ancient craters like the surface of the moon – except greener. 

And my God the place is green! I thought I’d seen the colour green before, but I was wrong. There were so many different shades, I literally had trouble adjusting my eyes to the brightness of it all!

Each crater was formed individually by violent volcanic explosions over the last 1 million years. There’s no ancient lava flow here, which means the explosions were just violent bursts of hot gas and steam that erupted out of the ground like a bomb going off, leaving this ravaged surface.

The size of the individual craters varies, but the largest can be nearly two miles across and up to 100 metres deep. Many of them have now evolved into saltwater lakes like this one, which may look inviting, but be warned – the water is highly acidic and stinks of sulphur.  You definitely don’t want to take a dip, no matter how hot you might be!

Another crater lake to look out for is Katwe Salt Lake, which is so salty that they actually mine salt here – in the photo below you can see the piles of mined salt, covered with protective tarpaulins, on the far shore.

Other craters to look out for include:

• Lake Kikorongo: Teeming with wildlife like elephants and buffaloes, and offering boat tours.
• Kashaka Crater: Scenic beauty with diverse vegetation and panoramic vistas.
• Lake Munyanyange: Home to lesser flamingos.

How to get to Queen Elizabeth National Park Uganda

There are various ways to reach the park; here are the main options:

By air

Entebbe International Airport is the main international gateway to Uganda, located about 40 kilometres south of Kampala. From Entebbe, you can catch domestic flights to:

• Mweya Safari Lodge airstrip: Located within Queen Elizabeth park itself, offering the most convenient air access (flight time: 1 hour).
• Kasese Airport: Situated near the park’s southern entrance (flight time: 1 hour 15 minutes).
• Kihihi Airport: Serves the Ishasha sector in the southern part of the park (flight time: 1 hour).

By private car

This is how we got there, with our lovely driver Hassan, who took us all round Uganda for two weeks.

• From Kampala: The most common route is via Mbarara, covering approximately 420 kilometers (6-7 hours drive). Enjoy scenic landscapes and stopovers at interesting spots like the Equator monument and Lake Mburo National Park.
• From Fort Portal: This option takes about 260 kilometers (4-5 hours drive) through the breathtaking foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains. Witness stunning views and diverse vegetation along the way.

By bus

• Buses: Several companies offer bus services from Kampala to Mbarara or Kasese, with connections to the park entrance gates. While very budget-friendly, expect longer travel times and potential delays.
• Shared taxis: These are readily available in Kampala and major towns, offering a more flexible and potentially faster option, but with less legroom and comfort.

Remember, the journey to Queen Elizabeth National Park is part of the adventure!

Where to stay in Queen Elizabeth Park in Uganda

Queen Elizabeth National Park offers a diverse range of accommodation options to suit different budgets and travel styles. Here are three choices to consider:

• BUDGET: Bush Lodge: This is where I stayed. Bush Lodge provides a comfortable and authentic safari experience without breaking the bank. Choose from tents with shared bathroom or self-contained bandas, all offering basic amenities and stunning views of the Kazinga Channel. Guided game drives and boat cruises can be arranged, making it a great base for exploring the park.
• MIDRANGE: Parkview Safari Lodge: Perched on a hill overlooking the Kazinga Channel and the vast savanna plains, Parkview Safari Lodge offers comfortable accommodation and breathtaking views. Choose from spacious cottages with balconies, tents with en-suite bathrooms, or family cottages. There’s also a swimming pool.
• LUXURY: Buffalo Safari Lodge: Relax in luxurious cottages with private balconies, indulge in delicious meals prepared by experienced chefs, and enjoy the infinity pool, spa, and bar, ensuring a truly unforgettable safari experience.

Tips for visiting Queen Elizabeth National Park

• Consider using a tour operator: Booking a tour doesn’t necessarily mean extra expense. Experienced tour operators often get discounts and can arrange all your transport, accommodation, and activities within the park, taking the hassle out of planning.
• Book flights and accommodation in advance: Especially during peak season, securing your spot early is crucial to avoid disappointment.
• Factor in park entrance fees: These vary depending on your nationality and duration of stay.
• Prepare for any weather: Pack for both sunshine and rain, as the park can experience varied conditions.

Is Queen Elizabeth National Park worth visiting? My final verdict!

Whether Queen Elizabeth National Park lives up to the hype depends on your expectations and priorities. It certainly has beautiful landscapes including savannas, volcanic craters, and the Kazinga Channel, offering opportunities to see a variety of wildlife like elephants, lions, and hippos.

However, animal sightings may not be as frequent as in other safari destinations like Kenya or Botswana. The park also faces challenges like habitat loss and human-wildlife conflict.

For me, the Kazinga Channel boat safari was a highlight, providing unique encounters with hippos, crocodiles, and numerous birds. Ultimately, it was my favourite Ugandan park and I think no visit to Uganda is complete without a visit.

Liked these Queen Elizabeth National Park photos?

If you’d like to read more about Uganda or wildlife photography, why not try…

• The Amazing Animals Of Uganda: A Photo Guide
• Awesome Things To Do In Sipi Falls, Uganda
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• 28 Brilliant Things To Do In Uganda
• Visiting The Magical Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary in Uganda
• What To Wear On Safari: My Detailed Safari Packing List With Photos