Instinct Of The Mara Review: Exclusive Wildlife In Kenya

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Instinct of the Mara Lodge in the Olderkesi Conservancy Kenya. Photo is of my tent at night with the stars and Milky Way above. — My tent at Instinct of the Mara Lodge in the Olderkesi Conservancy Kenya

Welcome to my review of Instinct of the Mara safari lodge in Olderkesi, Kenya. I spent four nights here as a guest of Secluded Africa. I was not required to write this blog post but I’m doing so because it’s a wonderful place and you should know about it!

What follows is my honestly held opinion. I don’t accept freebies or payment in exchange for positive coverage. All prices are correct at the time of writing. This post may contain affiliate links.

There are tonnes of places to stay in the Maasai Mara in Kenya.

From camps within the National Reserve itself to boutique lodges tucked away in the private Mara conservancies, and from simple tents to top-end luxury suites, the choice can be overwhelming.

I can’t claim to know them all (though I’m working on it!) but what I can do is tell you about one I stayed at recently, so you can get an idea of what it was like and decide if it’s right for you.

That one is Instinct of the Mara, in the Olderkesi Conservancy.

Best place to stay in masai mara Pinterest Pin — Save this best place to stay in Masai Mara Pin for later

About my visit to Instinct of the Mara

As always, I first want to reassure you that this post is as authentic as they come. It was not written by AI or scraped from sources across the web.

I spent four nights at Instinct of the Mara, as well as three nights in Speke’s Camp in the northern Maasai Mara. This was my third visit to Kenya and my second stay with Secluded Africa, the company that runs Instinct of the Mara.

A lot of the information in this post you won’t find anywhere else, because I got it from doing my own research and speaking to people on the ground in Kenya.

All the photos were taken by me, even the self-portraits!

And if you have questions, you can always contact me and ask.

Me, your trusted writer, posing in front of my safari tent at Instinct of the Mara Kenya — Posing in front of my safari tent at Instinct of the Mara Kenya

Where is Instinct of the Mara in Kenya?

Instinct of the Mara Lodge is located southeast of the Maasai Mara, right next to the border with Tanzania.

It sits close to the boundary of the Maasai Mara inside the Olderkesi Conservancy, which is one of the Mara conservancies around the edges of the main Maasai Mara National Reserve.

There are fourteen Mara conservancies, but the four most popular and successful ones are Mara North, Naboisho, Ol Kinyei, and Olare Motorogi.

Olderkesi, in contrast, is very new, little known and barely visited by tourists, meaning that if you go there, you’ll probably get the wildlife all to yourself!

But if you’re unfamiliar with Kenya, you might be wondering what is the difference between the National Reserve and a conservancy.

The lounge and bar area at Instinct of the Mara in Kenya, with solid wood floor and comfy sofas — The lounge and bar area at Instinct of the Mara in Kenya

What are the Mara conservancies?

Unlike the main Masai Mara National Reserve, which is run by the government and open to everyone, the Mara conservancies are community-owned and privately managed areas of land around the edges.

These conservancies are part of a model where local Maasai landowners lease their land to safari and lodge companies for wildlife conservation and tourism.

The local community earn money from their land, the animals are protected, and visitors get pristine wilderness and incredible wildlife viewing opportunities.

A view from a high hilltop viewpoint looking over a plan covered with trees, with hills behind — Looking out over the Olderkesi Conservancy towards the Tanzanian border

The main difference is that in the Maasai Mara there is a $200 a day entrance fee and strict rules about where you can go and what you can do.

It can also get very crowded – you might have seen pictures of the infamous ‘Mara traffic jams’ crowding round a big cat sighting.

Meanwhile in the conservancies there are fewer rules, fewer cars, and while there are conservation fees to pay, they tend to be less and all the money goes directly to the local community.

A row of 11 cars in the Maasai Mara Kenya — All these cars are waiting to spot a leopard in the Maasai Mara

Introducing Instinct of the Mara and Secluded Africa

Instinct of the Mara is one of only two lodges in the Olderkesi Conservancy. It was founded just before the pandemic and then put on hold (obviously!), finally opening in 2022.

It’s part of Secluded Africa, a small safari company which has four lodges in Kenya, including Kipalo Hills in Tsavo West, and the beautiful beach hotel Cardamom House near Mombasa.

Unlike some lodges in Kenya that are run by big hotel companies, Secluded Africa is a family-run company that puts the environment, conservation and community at the heart of everything they do.

For them, luxury is about experiences, privacy, service, and the personal touch, while at the same time making a positive impact on the people and places you’re visiting.

A beautiful bedroom at Cardamom House in Kenya — Cardamom House is another of the Secluded Africa properties

Lots of safari companies claim to ‘give back’ and ‘support local communities’ – though how much they actually do that can vary from company to company.

At Secluded, they really put their money and their hearts behind this claim.

Alongside the lodges they also run the Secluded Africa Wildlife and Conservation Trust, which funds and manages community projects in the areas around their properties.

This includes providing key infrastructure like water sources, paying for school fees, providing medical care or food in times of hardship, training locals in trades so they can earn a living, and much more.

When you stay at one of their lodges you pay a conservation fee which funds this vital work – so you can feel happy in the knowledge that not only are you having an amazing Kenya holiday, you’re also directly helping people.

You can find out more about the sorts of things the Secluded Trust does by reading Kipalo Hills Lodge In Tsavo West, Kenya: My Complete Review.

A team from the Secluded Trust distributing food to families during a drought in Tsavo

Olderkesi: A new conservancy in Kenya

One of the things the Secluded Trust is currently funding is the creation of new conservancy land in the Maasai Mara.

The conservancy model in Kenya has been a huge success. Leasing the land from the local Maasai people gives them an income and creates jobs, and it also protects vital habitats and wildlife corridors for animals to live and roam in.

So the team at Secluded Africa has been working over the past couple of years, negotiating with the local landowners to lease the area around Instinct of the Mara, and expand the size of the Olderkesi Conservancy.

This is brand new land for wildlife conservation, the first to be created in Kenya for many years!

There’s more information about how they did this and what it means for the area in this separate blog post: Olderkesi In Kenya: The Maasai Mara’s Newest Conservancy

A car door showing Secluded Africa branding. The tagline says 'conservation at work'. — Conservation is such a big part of what Secluded Africa does that it’s on their branding

Accommodation at Instinct of the Mara

So now you know WHY you should visit, what will you get when you stay at Instinct of the Mara?

The lodge has a selection of rooms to choose from, depending on your budget and the size of your group.

Safari Tents

There are 7 standard safari tents, sleeping two people. While they’re not the biggest or fanciest safari tents I’ve ever stayed in, mine was spacious, clean and nicely decorated.

The bed was one of the most comfortable I’ve seen on safari, and I slept really well.

Although it’s a tent, you get a proper bathroom with a toilet, twin basins and a hot shower on the mains (no bucket showers here). The hot water took a while to come through, but when it did it was piping hot – wonderful after a dusty day of driving around looking at wildlife.

My other favourite thing was my morning tea on the veranda overlooking the garden, where if you’re lucky you’ll spot visiting birds, zebras, monkey or maybe even a giraffe.

Inside my lovely tent at Instinct of the Mara Kenya

Forest Suite

If you’re visiting with friends or family, or you want more space, there are also two larger accommodation options.

Both the Forest Suite and the Private Villa have a huge living room and two separate bedrooms, each with its own bathroom.

The Forest Suite has a private deck looking out into the woods with sun loungers, a private fire pit and even an outdoor bathtub that can be filled for you.

Inside the Forest Suite at Instinct of the Mara showing the bed and private deck — The forest suite has two bedrooms and a living room opening onto a private deck

Private Villa

As well as having the same configuration of a living room and two double bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms, the Villa also has a private veranda and plunge pool.

The Villa offers more internal privacy than the Forest Suite because it’s a solid building rather than a safari tent.

This means the bedrooms have doors you can close, rather than curtains separating them, which do offer some privacy but don’t prevent sound carrying.

Outside the Villa at Instinct of the Mara in Kenya showing the plunge pool — The Villa has a veranda and private plunge pool

Facilities at Instinct of the Mara Lodge

Apart from the tents, Instinct of the Mara has a large and beautiful lounge and dining area where you can relax with a drink or enjoy a delicious meal.

This leads out onto the garden, where there are cosy seating areas for you to sit in the shade with a book, or watch for animals and birds that may visit (if you sit quietly for long enough).

The well-stocked bar with four chairs and shelves of bottles at Instinct of the Mara in Kenya — The well-stocked bar at Instinct of the Mara

Note that apart from the private plunge pool attached to the Villa, there’s no swimming pool at Instinct of the Mara.

However I found I didn’t really miss having one. I was busy during the day, and as soon as the sun goes down it gets pretty chilly so a hot shower was more what I wanted.

There is excellent WiFi (Starlink) but only in the main area, not in the rooms.

The whole lodge is run on solar power, with a backup generator just in case.

Front deck with sofas and colourful cushions leading out onto the garden with lawn and trees — Front deck leading out onto the garden

Food at Instinct of the Mara Kenya

Like with all Secluded Africa’s properties, they feed you really well at Instinct of the Mara!

The kitchen is led by head chef Mack, who you’ll meet on your first day and who will take note of any dietary requests you may have.

Breakfasts are served either in the main dining area, or packed up and taken with you on your game drive. I was offered fresh fruit with yoghurt and granola, toast with honey or jam, and a cooked breakfast.

Lunches are usually also packed and eaten out in the Masai Mara or some scenic spot under the shade of an acacia tree in the conservancy. There were colourful salads, fresh bread, and chicken for the meat-eaters.

Fresh salads with beans, chickpeas, pasta and vegetables, served to me from the back of our safari jeep in the Masai Mara — Fresh salads served to me from the back of our safari jeep in the Masai Mara

Dinner is eaten by candlelight back in the lodge, with an extremely generous four courses, usually starting with soup, then a second starter, then a main of something like beef or pork with potatoes and crunchy vegetables, and finally a fruit or chocolate-based dessert.

All the food was fresh, healthy and delicious, though by the end I did have to start saying no to the second starter as there was just too much!

Granola with fruit and yoghurt and mango juice at breakfast in camp

Activities at Instinct of the Mara Camp in Kenya

As with all safari lodges in Kenya, there are plenty of outdoors and nature-related things to do at Instinct of the Mara.

But because it’s in a private conservancy, there are many more options here than are permitted if you stay inside the National Reserve.

Banded mongoose, Maasai Mara, Kenya — Obviously seeing wildlife is the main reason you come to Kenya!

Two marabou storks fighting, Maasai Mara, Kenya — Obviously seeing wildlife is the main reason you come to Kenya!

Game drives in the Maasai Mara

The main activity at Instinct of the Mara is, of course, safari wildlife watching.

Olderkesi shares a border with the Maasai Mara National Reserve, so it’s easy enough to hop in the car with your guide and spotter, drive out of the conservancy, and through the Sand River Gate into the park.

Since it’s quite a long way, I recommend you take a packed breakfast and lunch and make a full day of it, leaving at around 6 am and returning just before sunset at about 6 pm.

It’s a long day but will allow you to explore far and wide and take your time with any incredible animals you may see.

Note that the Maasai Mara National Reserve charges $200 a day park fees, so if you want to go there every day of your trip, it will add a fair bit to the cost of your holiday.

White backed vultures eating a buffalo carcass, Maasai Mara, Kenya — I photographed these vultures and this lion in the Masai Mara in Kenya

Resting young male lion, Maasai Mara, Kenya — I photographed these vultures and this lion in the Masai Mara in Kenya

Game drives in the Olderkesi Conservancy

If you want to explore the conservancy (and save money) then you can also do game drives closer to home.

There’s no extra charge for this, and since you’re closer to the camp, you can do the more relaxing morning and afternoon drives, with some time to chill out and have lunch at the lodge during the hottest part of the day.

When I visited, the animals were only just beginning to return to the newly-minted conservancy, so we didn’t see as much wildlife as we did in the Masai Mara.

But we still saw impala, zebras, dikdiks, an eland, monkeys, masses of giraffes and plenty of birds.

Eland, Olderkesi Conservancy, Kenya — An eland and a group of male impala spotted in the Olderkesi Conservancy

Male impalas, Olderkesi Conservancy, Kenya — An eland and a group of male impala spotted in the Olderkesi Conservancy

By the time you visit, this will probably have increased too.

Note that the terrain around the conservancy is more overgrown with bushes and shrubs, making it harder to see and photograph animals than on the open plans further north and west in the Maasai Mara.

The good news is that in the conservancy you can drive off the road (where possible), something that is banned in the park.

Four giraffes, Olderkesi Conservancy, Kenya — Giraffes and a vervet monkey also seen close to Instinct of the Mara

Vervet monkey eating a carrot, Olderkesi Conservancy, Kenya — Giraffes and a vervet monkey also seen close to Instinct of the Mara

Guided nature walks

Another thing you can do in the conservancy that’s banned in the Maasai Mara is walking safaris.

Apart from to use the bathroom or when you stop for lunch in a safe place, getting out of your car is strictly prohibited inside the park.

But in the private Olderkesi Mara conservancy, that’s not a problem!

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Our guide Henry tells stories about the area while Maasai guard Morefu keeps watch — Our guide Henry tells stories about the area while Morefu keeps watch

On my first afternoon I did a wonderful nature walk with guide Henry Ole Sanoe and two Maasai guards armed with spears and arrows for protection.

Henry introduced us to the trees and plants and explained their properties and the way they’re used in Maasai culture.

It’s a great way to stretch your legs, learn about the environment, and notice the little things that you wouldn’t normally spot on a game drive.

Henry gives a bunch of leaves to a guest to smell — We learned about the local plants and their uses

Birdwatching walks

If you’re interested in birds, you can do a birdwatching walk with Henry, who is also an expert ornithologist.

We went out early one morning and saw many different species of African birds – as well as a few more zebras and giraffes.

Instinct of the Mara Review: Exclusive Wildlife In Kenya — Birds seen on a morning birding walk in the Olderkesi Conservancy

Sundowners

One of my favourite things to do at Instinct of the Mara was the sundowner experience.

If you stay at one of the Maasai Mara lodges inside the park, of course you’ll still get sundowners, but you’ll have them early and then you have to leave as the park closes at 6 pm (sunset is around 6.30 pm).

No such issue with sundowners in the Maasai Mara conservancies – here you can stay out as late as you like.

Instinct of the Mara’s sundowner experience involves taking you to a viewpoint and setting up comfortable seating around a campfire (another thing that’s definitely not allowed inside the park!).

One of the guides roasts a leg of lamb over the campfire in the Olderkesi Conservancy Kenya — One of the guides roasts a leg of lamb over the campfire

You’ll learn how the Maasai guides make fire from scratch by rubbing two sticks together and using elephant dung as kindling.

When the fire is going, they’ll roast a whole leg of lamb over the flames and then slice and serve it with mint sauce as a little pre-dinner snack, alongside your wine, beer or G&T.

You can stay and enjoy the sounds of the bush long after the sun has set, as the fire slowly dies and the stars come out.

A Maasai guard waits by the campfire with deep blue night sky behind — We were able to stay out long after sunset, something that’s not possible in the Masai Mara

Night drives

The activities don’t end after it gets dark.

As with the late sundowners and walking safaris, you’re free to do more in the conservancy, so grab a warm jacket and head out after dinner for a night safari drive.

Many African animals are nocturnal so if you’re lucky there are plenty of creatures you won’t see during the day, like aardvarks, genet cats, bush babies or maybe even a leopard.

The Milky Way and Venus over the the Olderkesi Conservancy in Kenya — The night skies in Africa can be sensational. I took this photo shortly after taking the one above

Cultural visits to the local Maasai village

Another great thing to do during your stay at Instinct of the Mara is a visit to the nearby Maasai community.

All the staff at the lodge are employed from the surrounding villages, and as well as chatting and getting to know them while you’re in camp, you can also take a trip to see where they grew up.

For me, it was a wonderful way to see the work of the new conservancy in action and learn more about how the Maasai people live.

Traditional Maasai houses in Olderkesi Kenya

How to get to Instinct of the Mara Kenya

The best way to get to Instinct of the Mara in Kenya is to fly.

You can get there on one of the many little bush planes that zip between Nairobi or Mombasa and the Maasai Mara. I flew from Wilson Airport in Nairobi with Fly ALS.

The nearest Mara airstrip to Instinct of the Mara is Keekorok. A driver will be sent to meet you, and from there it’s about a two-hour drive back through the Maasai Mara and the conservancy to the lodge – or longer if you stop to look at wildlife.

Keekorok Airstrip sign in the Masai Mara Kenya — Get to Instinct of the Mara via Keekorok Airstrip

Note that if you haven’t paid park fees that day, you have to take a pretty direct route out of the park, or you may be charged. However if you do spot wildlife on the way and stop to look, that’s OK.

Once you’re inside the conservancy, of course you can go anywhere you like.

After your stay at Instinct of the Mara, you’ll be dropped back at Keekorok airstrip, from where you can head back to Nairobi, fly to another National Park like Tsavo or Ambroseli, or go to Mombasa to spend some time relaxing on the beach.

Kipalo Hills Lodge in Tsavo Kenya — I recommend visiting one of Secluded’s other lodges, like Kipalo Hills in Tsavo

Other best places for a Kenya safari

While the Maasai Mara is Kenya’s big hitter for wildlife, there are loads of other incredible places to visit, and if time and budget allow you should definitely explore some of them..

Secluded Africa have a remote and very private lodge on the edge of Tsavo National Park, which you can read about at Kipalo Hills Lodge In Tsavo West, Kenya: My Complete Review

Or if you fancy beachfront luxury, have a look at this one: Is Cardamom House In Vipingo The Best Beach Hotel In Kenya?

If you’re a photographer like me, another place I loved was Shompole Wilderness where they have an amazing photography hide. There’s a post about that coming soon.

A shady seafront private dining area at Cardamom House — Cardamom House offers luxury with a sea view

Instinct of the Mara: who is it for?

Instinct of the Mara will be the perfect fit for you if you…

Hate crowds and like to go to places that are a bit undiscovered and off-the-beaten-track.
Don’t want maximum high-end luxury and don’t think you need it because the animals are the same wherever you stay.
Love staying in boutique places that are more down-to-earth and not fancy and pretentious, but where the food, accommodation and service are still excellent.
Love places where you’re made to feel welcomed like a friend.
Want to contribute to conservation in Africa.
Only want to stay with truly ethical companies who make a real difference in their local communities, and don’t engage in ‘greenwashing’.

If you said yes to all of the above, the Instinct of the Mara is for you!

Being handed a glass of wine by a waiter while overlooking a viewpoint in the Mara conservancy — I was so wholeheartedly welcomed by the team last year, I went back!

How to book

If you’d like to know more or are ready to book, you can contact Secluded Africa directly. Please tell them I sent you! I don’t benefit in any way, but it’s nice to let them know I’m spreading the word.

If you want help booking your safari trip from a recommended operator, I highly recommend Wild Paths. Owner Jonny only works with the most responsible safari operators and he has close ties with Secluded Africa.

If you mention Passport & Pixels in your enquiry they’ll give you £50 per person off the cost of your safari!

They also donate 30% of their profits back to community and conservation projects in Africa so you know the cost of your holiday is directly helping. Everyone wins!

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A small token of support helps keep Passport & Pixels going, so I can carry on creating free content for travellers like you. Also, it makes my day! Thank you!

My favourite travel tools and brands

To help you organise your trip, here’s a short list of some of the brands and tools I use over and over again when I’m planning my travels. You can see more on my Travel Resources page.

Booking.com: A huge range of hotels to choose from, often with free cancellation. If you book hotels regularly you can earn discounts. I’m on Genius Level 3 which gets me 20% off!
Expedia: Another great place to find hotels and Expedia also sell flights, car hire, and loads more all in one place.
Skyscanner: The only place I ever go to search for flights and compare prices.
Flight Centre: Booking a more complicated route? Let Flight Centre organise it for you (and deal with the drama when something goes wrong).
Priority Pass: I love having access to 1600+ airport lounges when I fly, allowing me to enjoy my time at the airport. Buy through my link and you get up to 20% off!
Airalo: Say goodbye to ridiculous mobile roaming charges. Did you know you can now buy ane-SIM, install it in your phone before you leave home, and then use data abroad at local prices? Game changer. Get US$3 credit with code BELLA5735.
TourRadar: If you prefer group travel and organised tours, TourRadar has a huge range of fantastic tours from respected operators. They’re very helpful and have 4.5 stars on TrustPilot.
Viator: Part of the TripAdvisor brand, Viator is another great place to search for group adventures and day trips.
GetYourGuide: A great place to find local tours and day trips in your destination.
Wex Photo Video: The UK’s best camera gear store.
Ellis Brigham: Looking for good quality backpacks, travel clothes and other gear? Ellis Brigham is where I buy almost all of mine.
Rentalcars.com: Part of the Booking.com family and the world’s largest online car rental service, with 24/7 customer service.
World Nomads Travel Insurance: I never ever travel without travel insurance and nor should you!

Where to next?

If you enjoyed this post, why not try some of my other safari posts?

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Instinct of the Mara Review: Exclusive Wildlife In Kenya